dandan

Excellent - thanks fellas. I'll be keeping my fingers crosed! I guess we'll have a couple of curvy feature shots up by the weekend!

Haha - I had to sort out a freshly editted photo for your reply

That would be great - thanks. If you could also take a similar shot to the one below that would be great. It's an easy pic to get from underneath and I did mine without the car being jacked up. The important part is how far in towards the centre of the car does the bar come before it bends downwards. I tried to outline the normal one in red.....the turquoise one would be BAD for me as that would interfere with my IC pipes.

It was nice and clean until I made a 200mile round trip with no undertray and ended up spending most of the time driving in rain and on several filthy roads. A good clean is on the cards this weekend

I have a cast manifold and T67DBB - plenty of response and low end torque. Power delivery is excellent and it pulls strong from 1300rpm - be that part throttle or full throttle. It is easier to drive and more responsive than the twin setup.

I'm looking for a bit of help here related to the TRD and adjustable Titan anti roll bars... I'm looking to buy one or the other but I have a few concerns about the fit and clearance between the front bar and my intercooler piping. The way I have my hot side IC pipe routed is down from the turbo and out to the front of the car past the alternator. It then turns down and out into the inner wing area running really close to the anti roll bar and fairly close to the plastic fan. As things stand there is plenty of clearance and I am having no issues at all - my concern is what happens when I change the front roll bar...I don't really want to get into modifying the intercooler piping right now. I tried to get a few photos of my piping and the standard front roll bar and hopefully anyone with either of these front bars fitted could do the same so I can see if the bar shapes are different and whether or not they'd foul on my IC piping. Can anyone help me out or even just comment on how the bars differ in this area?

Very nice

Can anyone else shed any light on this? I'm now wondering if these Supraforums settings are to be trusted after what "wheels-inmotion" asked/said. Rear camber -1° 30' Rear toe in 0° 12' Front camber -0° 20' Front castor (@20 degrees) 3° 36' Front toe in 0° 0' I'm headed over to PowerStation for 3pm and am now feeling a little concerned that I may end up just going with normal OEM settings even though I am on 245/40/18 and 275/35/18 with relatively stiff Tein HA suspension so the stock settings may not be all that suitable. Ride height is a little lower than stock and anti roll bars are standard. Car is 99% road use. Any input on the geometry would be greatly appreciated. Dnk - sorry for the hijack! Hopefully this may prove useful to other people as well though.

Thanks for posting up fellas but it looks lke johnd-mkiv is going to do it for me now. Thanks again

I reckon I'll be there till just after 4pm. I'm back at work now and have them written here in the original degrees and minutes, rather than decimal degrees. Do they make more sense to you written as or are they fundamentally wrong? Rear camber -1° 30' Rear toe in 0° 12' Front camber -0° 20' Front castor (@20 degrees) 3° 36' Front toe in 0° 0' I'm headed over there later today so I'd love some feedback on somethng more suitable or else I'll just go with the OEM setup which I think they have on the computer. This setup is to tide me over till I fit my new dampers, springs and top arms and then need a full blown setup with the corner weighting like you've done for a few guys here. I'm aiming to have all that complete within one month. As things stand right now, the geometry must be miles from anything sensible as I have just replaced all the bottom arms and adjusters and even though I realinged all my match marks I know it isn't identical to before.

3pm Steve. Be good to see you to put a face to a name etc

They were posted up over on Supraforums a while back as a slight deviation from the so called "Lance Alignment". What doesn't make sense with them? I may be going with a bog standard setup if there's somethng wrong with these Edit: The "Lance" figures are here, I'm looking for the link back to the ones I posted up........... http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/lance_alignment/index.html

Can you wait for something from the US or is it needed imemdiately?

£80 at PowerStation for the four wheel setup - no corner weights or anything like that for that price though. I'm headed there tomorrow afternoon for the following: Rear camber -1.5 degrees Rear toe in 0.2 degrees Front camber -0.333 degrees Front castor (@20 degrees) 3.6 degrees Front toe in 0 We'll see how it goes

I recently replaced all the arms (on a 1996 car) - the fronts came apart as if they were new. The rear camber arm (the longer of the pair) was fine and feed up perfectlly with a bit of penetrating fluid as did one of the toe arms (short ones). The other toe arm was hard to get out as the bolt had seized to the inside of the bush. I couldn't be bothered to spend too much time trying to free it so I cut it off So my personal experience.....right rear toe arm was the only troublesome one. Edit: Post 367 onwards....you can see the toe arms hanging between the two chairs in my kitchen http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=194439&page=25&highlight=dan%27s+project

Bummer - too slow

4 in total on front (one arm per side) and four in total at back (two arms per side) - all are on the bottom arms. If you are going to start messing around with them, make sure you know where they are set right now.

He needs one of these - bit pricey for a one off though http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=210422

Another item my dad has for sale... This is a Reid aluminium extrusion double A frame gantry/frame. It is rated to 2000kg and extends from approx 7ft - 10ft high and the width is approx 15ft. The centre carriage slides back and fro along the top of the crossbar on wheels/castors. Can be used with a pulley, block and tackle or hoist. It is in excellent condition and has barely been used. It has a braked castor on each corner of the A frame and is easy to disassemble to store flat....just a few pins/bolts. One of the photos shows the whole lot in its "flat pack" form showing how little space it takes up. I wanted him to keepit for pulling engines in and out but to be honest we normally use a block and tackle off the back excavator of his JCB - this frame would be a luxury but unfortunately he wants it gone. I've seen them used in car garages and workshops, in builders yards, on various sites and also for lifting gravestones! The list price on this 2000kg version is about £3200 direct from Reid. He wants £1600 for it. He also has a 240V elctric hoist to go with it and I think that is rated to 500kg but Iwill have to double check - the pic shown does not have the guard on the cooling fan...I do have that as I borrowed it for another electric motor while he had the hoist stored away in the garage I will put it back on if it sells. £200 for the elctric hoist. Thanks for looking Dan

Another "retirement forces sale" thread.... This is my dad's single cylinder diesel dumper, something he no longer needs as he has closed up his building company and retired. This is a single cylinder, hand start, 3 speed + reverse dumper. I don't know the exact skip capacity off the top of my head but I can find out if anyone needs to know exactly. This has been meticulously maintained and is actually a bit of a family cared for kind of thing. We fully rebuilt the engine about 4-5years ago with new piston, rings etc and ever since it has been the most reliable vehicle I know of (not difficult really as it is so simple there is hardly anything to go wrong) He hasit advertised in the local papers for £750 but I reckon he'd take £600 for it Drop me a pm or post up here if you are interested. Cheers Dan

Manual - 6 speed.

Isuzu truck for sale here guys - not sure if it would be useful for anyone? It is owned by my dad and he is only selling it as he has closed up his building company and retired. ...lucky git! It really is an awesome piece of kit - extremely powerful, 100% reliable and the aluminium bed means more stuff can be carried to stick under that 7.5t limit. I'd have to check this but I think it can take 4tonne legally. 1999 with 80,000miles. Excellent condition. Custom made aluminium tipper bed. One owner fron new. £6,500

I will have my Tein HA setup for sale soon (I'd estimate within one month maximum) as I'm changing to a much softer setup.

Is anyone here able to TIG weld aluminium? I need to lay down some material onto some ali parts to build up material ready for machining. If you may be able to help then let me know and I'll send you some pics to make things a little clearer.... Many thanks Dan

I will be calling them in the morning (or I may even call in as I'm in that area tomorrow) and will let you know.