dandan

Perfect - thank you

Bump. No good for any of our traders/workshops?

Thanks very much for all those pictures David - much appreciated It looks like you are 100% correct though - I'm screwed if I go with a TRD bar and my current IC piping! I will compare your photos to my car tomorrow in the daylight - your pics are more useful than mine Maybe I will have to modify the intercooler piping afterall. OK - where are the photos from the Titan guys?

Yeah but wasn't your old turbo goosed by the time you did the ~630 run? I remember you dumped a load of power and torque in the midrange compared to a previous run at less boost so it stands to reason that the ass had fallen out of the top end by that point as well. Plus you went to a 0.81 as well didn't you? That would definitely help too. Edit: I would like to see some 100% fair numbers and then I'd know if I should be getting one

We need someone to do a back to back over here with same setup and same boost. Maybe Jay should lend me his turbo for a dyno run while his car is off the road

Yes - done about 600miles or so with it fitted. I don't know how well the Bosch ones hold pressure to be honest so have nothing to compare to. I could see how quick my rail ressure drops and report back...? Or if someone else buys one for themselves I could do some testing on one with pressure decay vs time at whatever pressure people wanted to see.

Best of luck dude !

Ah - I see

Good or bad?

Nice motor - what a bargain.

Brilliant

I'm still on stock cams and I don't think I'll change unless I get the "power bug" over the summer I'd like to clear 600 on the stock cams.

You can replace the Bosch valve with an aftermarket one if you wish from somewhere like here: http://www.speedflowstore.com/products.asp?CatID=CARBY%20-and-%20FUEL%20SYS It allows you to connect directly to it with AN/JIC fittings. To get onto your hardpipe you may want to try something like this from Speedflow but you'll need to be using imperial aluminium tube to suit the fittings: http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/hardline-system-150-c.asp http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/versatube--pipe-fitting-system-171-c.asp I know you said you have already fitted 10mm copper pipe, I don't think this stuff can be made to work with that but it may be worth a call to Speedflow to check. To be honest the aluminium stuff isn't that expensive but it always seem to be out of stock at Speedflow. I bought mine here instead: http://www.earls.co.uk/earls/hose/aluminiumtubing.html

All the pipework etc is homemade but obviously I didn't make the turbo or wastegate It's hard to put a price on it as it is all custom and paying for fabrication time could be very costly. The downpipe alone had days and days of effort invested into it to get the recirculation routing perfect as it's a fine balance of optimum design vs available space. Also the flex section and lower mounting brace took a lot of effort to get perfect. I'd hate to have paid someone to fabricate the whole thing from scratch like this Plus there's the ceramic coating on everything which was around £600 if I remember rightly. In terms of sound - I can't give you a fair comparison as I have a really quiet exhaust fitted at the moment and have not heard another single with the same setup. It is close to standard at idle, when tootling around it is quiet but sounds quite "sharp". At full chat it is not boomy or droney at all and is quite hard to describe.....it screams like a banshee and sounds like it's literally tearing the air apart that's coming out of the exhaust...not dissimilar to a jet to be honest. Once I fit the 4" bypassed exhaust section we'll see how that sounds and I can make a fairer comparsion to the tubular manifold singles on their typical 4" exhausts. In terms of cast vs tubular - I've never seen a solid case for a tubular item over a cast version. I did this conversion with the intention of creating a killer road setup with no compromises. If I thought a tubular manifold offered advantages I would have fitted one. I would love to see someone's dyno plot (of the same setup except for the manifold) making either more torque or more power on the same rollers at the same boost. Something else to bear in mind is that I am using a 0.81 housing on a 67mm turbo and still making bags of low end torque. I intend to get to 600bhp with this setup and have no concerns about doing it on road fuel at all. Once I get the exhaust bypass installed, my Greddy 3 row installed and my WI sorted I will hit the rollers again and see how she does. I will also get some real world numbers regarding boost vs EGT for this cast setup. I'd love to push it to the limit and do a direct back to back with a popular tubular manifold but I don't have the time and I'd be concerned about pushing my engine that hard as well to be honest If I was aiming for 900bhp then I'd be thinking about a tubular one. At the moment I wouldn't ever consider it. They suck up a lot of space, shed a heap of heat into the engine bay, coolant system and other components. They're more expensive to ceramic coat, the route from manifold face to turbo face is up to 5 times longer (sacrificing spool - divided and pulse tuned or not) and the angle of the wastegate routing off nearly every tubular manifold I have seen is just horrible. A big upside if they are commonly available in "kits" so there's no need to fabricate downpipe, IC pipes, wastegate rerouting etc. Obviously the PHR street kit is a "kit" as well which is great for people who don't want to mess about with a lot of fabrication work. I do like the PHR street kit a lot but I'd like to see if offered with other turbo options. In my opinion the kit's downsides (which are by no means show-stoppers, maybe just me being fussy) are: 1. Unknown internal porting of manifold (I spent hours working on mine for optimum flow) 2. 4 bolt downpipe flange 3. Potentially quite a small turbo depending on your goals - Wez ran one with stock cams and his very low rpm torque was phenomenal but arguably wasted that low down in the rev range. A 67mm turbo is so responsive on a cast manifold I personally see no need to go down to something like a 61mm. 4. Potential boost creep issues (I don't know how big the wastegate port area is - mine is about 42mm in the narrowest point) Hopefully those points may be useful to you gurnam

Good point Rob - thanks mate Nope - I dribbled a load of water out of one of my temp sensor holes the other day when messing around swapping sensors. The TRD bars are cheaper than the Titan ones but not adjustable. Maybe the fitment of the Titan will make the decision for me and I'll just go with the TRD. Hopefully I'll get a rough idea from a few photos soon. I don't know how to make a table so this is my best attempt of a summary of the allegedly stiffness comparisons. Location...Stock.....TRD.....Titan Light.....Titan Medium.....Titan Stiff Front.........364.......462........499................. - .................587 Rear..........340.......432........366................458.................583