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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

dandan

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Everything posted by dandan

  1. I've had a quick look and I reckon they are M10...
  2. Anyone know what size this thread is? Could it be M8x1.25? I'm too lazy to go take a nut off and check so I'm hoping someone knows Cheers Dan
  3. Nice one - thanks. Stick a picture up of yours so we can see these crazy offsets Sure is. I've added your spacer figures into the offsets to try to keep things simple. Are your arches rolled or are you running super stiff suspension? Your setup looks way worse than mine (in terms or arch rubbing) even allowing for the narrower tyres. Rear Setup 18 x 9.5 Manary V Sport wheels 10mm offset 265 35 18 Falken 452 Front Setup 18 x 8.5 Manary V Sport wheels 20mm offset 225 40 18 Falken 452 I know we have a spreadsheet for doing these comparisons (and someone is bound to post up and say that) but I think it would be nice to see some real life numbers and see what people are running without issues. That should also make for an easy comparison for other people looking at buying wheels and what to do about offset choice if they're not sticking with the norm.
  4. I thought I'd post up a thread to see who is running what has been nicknamed "aggressive offsets" on their cars - especially on the rear. CW would probably come up with a different nickname but we'll have to leave that for now or move the thread to NWS My particular setup somewhat fits this description which is good for looks but bad for arch rubbing with soft suspension. I am about to remove my Tein HA coilovers and fit a set of CW's Bilstein suspension which has much softer springs than the Tein HA. It looks like I am going to have arch rubbing issues at the rear as the tyre cannot pass the edge of the rear arch....right now the high spring rates are preventing contact. I removed the rear strut last night and lowered the car to try to get an idea of clearance - I think I need to gain about 15mm of space per side but I may be over exagerating here as it is hard to tell. I haven't checked the front yet as the front strut is a PITA to remove compared to the rear. I'm interested to know if anyone runs a similar setup to me and if arch rolling (or what degree of trimming) gained you enough room for full suspenion travel.... Rear Setup 18 x 9.5 Rota GTR wheels 30mm offset 275 35 18 Eagle F1 tyre Front Setup 18 x 8.5 Rota GTR wheels 35mm offset 245 40 18 Eagle F1 tyre So is anyone here running anything like the following at the rear: 9.5" wide and up to a 30mm offset 10" wide and up to a 36mm offset 10.5" wide and up to a 43mm offset 10.75" wide and up to a 46mm offset 11" wide and up to a 49mm offset I know Jamie and Jay have rear wheels that fit somwhere in this combo and I thnk they run something wider than 275 but I don't know of anyone else Feel free to do a quote from my dimensions above and change the values if you want - it could make everything quite easy to read and useful for others as a future reference. Cheers Dan
  5. i'm sure i turned the plastic caps half a turn anti clockwise so the pattern is out of sync. . . Then the footrest just lifts off. However, I removed it a while ago so my memory may a little off!
  6. 680 is a lot of power alright - I didn't realize it made that much at 1.4bar, that is excellent. Ignoring the usual "single" mods, am I right to assume this was with the Jun 256 cams and the Greddy intake using Super Unleaded? Did you have the WI running?
  7. That's an aggressive stance alright CW will be rolling his eyes at those bad boys!
  8. Not what you're after but I opened up both holes on the bracket and I also slotted the big one underneath too. I needed quite a bit of room though as I have two thermal gaskets - one against the head and one against the plenum.
  9. Anyone got a set for sale? Cheers Dan
  10. I think you are right - damn! Thanks for posting up the pics, looks like there may be some pipework alterations about to take place Rob - you're a gent. Thaks for that offer mate, I will probably take you up on it. I'm waiting to hear back from Dusty regarding delivery etc so I'll drop you a pm once I hear from him.
  11. Anybody out there with the Titan ones able to post a couple of pics up like David's ones of the TRD?
  12. They are for a left hand drive car but I don't know if that necessarily makes them angled wrong for us. Can they be adjusted to suit RHD alignment?
  13. I have a pair at work - will take a look on them tomorrow mate.
  14. I can't believe I have only just seen this - nice one John, should be cracking when finished
  15. If that upper dash trim is a facelift one I'll take it.
  16. Not sure if you're asking me or the OP Dude but my answer is....I wouldn't and didn't I put together exactly what I wanted for my car and could not be happier with it. I listed my opinions on the PHR kit in an earlier post (turbo choice being one of them).
  17. I didn't get this done last week. I waited there for about an hour as they had a car stuck on the ramp with some sort of problem. It looks like I'll be replacing the rest or my suspension arms (top front, top rear and strut rods) next weekend so I'll head back over there after that.
  18. God man, thanks. My old man is pushing me to get shot of it now, I was hoping he might change his mind but it doesn't look like it. Unfotunately I have no space at my house so I can't keep it
  19. Plus I finally sorted out my dash switches as well. Fog light switch and LED on the left, water injection arming and LED on the right. The plan is to fit the switch for the exhaust cutout in the middle. The large one here is the seven position boost (plus valet etc) selector switch and the smaller one is the eight way traction switch -this one is not wired up to the Solaris yet though. The LED in this pic is for the Aquamist 2S water injection fault diagnosis circuit. It lights up when you arm the system and then stays off unless there's a problem.
  20. I got my exhaust flanges back last night so now I have everythng I need to do the fabrication work for the cutout - just a case of finding the time now.... As they were before they were too thick and way too heavy. They're a much more sensible shape now and approximately half the weight. One end is counterbored to sit the pipe in for welding and the other has a chamfer to help clear the butterfly as it opens and keep the flow smooth.
  21. Mine is a road car - fullstop. It may get used on the occasional trackday but it would be very occasional. I have another car for trackwork but even that doesn't get used very often. I quite like the fact that the stock cams don't lead me into the limiter - they're kind of like a super soft rev limiter that makes you think about changing gear before you have to At the moment I rarely rev it over 6500 (or even 6000) when flat out as there's no need....remembering it is a road car. If that helps with my engine longevity then I am happy with that. I can appreciate that on a track car you may as well make the torque as high in the rev range as possible and make use of the gearing - that is what it is there for. Also, keeping the torque down makes life a lot easier for the driveline. The thing I like about mine is the part throttle repsonse and sub 2500rpm performance - in my mind that sort of tractability is essential on a road car that gets used often. On the track it would very rarely be needed so point taken.
  22. I'd like to see something like that. Off the top of my head I think the stock lift is ~7.8mm(I) and ~8.4mm(E) on a JDM motor? I believe that a lot of the aftermarket cams are up at 9mm+ without any interference issues so that's one barrier overcome. Squeezing another mm or so into the stock J spec duration would mean the valve has to accelerate that bit faster during opening and closing and I'm not sure how much of an issue that would be on the stock springs without doing a quick bit of number crunching... I'd really like to get some measurements for back pressure in the exhaust manifold to see how setups like OEM, BPU, cast single, tubular single all compare . Camshaft choice is a tricky affair if you want to minimize compromises throughout the rev range but I'm certain that the OEM J specs are not the best choice for a cast single setup running a decent (67mm+) sized turbo. Once I've got my new intercooler and exhaust fitted I'd like to do some cam timing experiments on the rollers with Ryan using my stock cams. Then I'd like to repeat this with a UK inlet cam as well as that would gain me a half mm or so of lift and a small increase in duration.
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