dandan

Cheers fellas, it's nice to know someone shares my thinking. The car doesn't really look any different to twelve months ago so sometimes it's hard to explain to friends/family where all the time has been spent. They just don't get it :search: On your point Mig.......I suppose we are lucky to be involved with cars where 600bhp is considered reliable power. We're spoilt with the 2JZ motor

Quick seller! I've got a white version with a peak recall if anyone is interested

I'm in for sure, glad you changed your mind

Do you know anything of the engine it came from?

Nice job Lee - well done mate. p.s. I got the pipe - thanks.

Happy Birthday Jay - have a good one mate

Cheers fellas, I really appreciate the comments and hope it's interesting to follow. I'm treading carefully with it now as I don't want to do anything that will put me off the road for ages with the warmer weather approaching as it's all running nicely and reliably. I can't spend loads of time on it at the moment so things just take that much longer to do. I'm not doing anything that major to make sure it stays on the road as much as possible - I'd like to relocate the battery, fit the Greddy intake, and gas flow the head but with the amount of time I have on my hands right now that could take me a month or more I am toying with the idea of just paying someone to do the battery relocation and Greddy install though John - don't expect too much in the flesh mate The money and time is being spent on areas that aren't really seen so it's not like I've got a mega $$$$ paint job or luxury interior with a huge ICE system or anything flash like that to see - it looks fairly normal except for the TRD spoiler and wheels. The money has been pumped into the underbonnet stuff and running gear really....I suppose my intention is to crack 600hp on the stock cams and intake and make sure there is still bags of bottom end grunt to make the lazy, part throttle daily driving a breeze. Plus I want to be able to put that power and torque down reliably with a smooth, supple, easy to drive chassis wrapped up in a modern OEM kind of appearance.

Front top arms are here now.... Rear strut rods and mounting hardware*: And the rear top arms' extra bits have turned up too so they're ready to roll as well: Everything is getting a few coats of paint before fitting - not the typical thing seen on the washing line *I need to check that one of the pairs of nuts for the rear strut rods are correct (I think the part number got mixed up ending in 54 as opposed to 45). Once that is sorted I'll stick some pics and part numbers in the tech area to make the whole suspension arm swap obvious for everyone else.

Thanks I got a bit of stick about the amount of copper grease I was using too. I did paste a bit on afterwards too to keep the water off I'm not sure if you saw the pics posted a page or so ago but the cam bolts from the front lower arms looked brand new when I took them out. The only one that was seized was the offside, rear toe arm. To be honest I'm beginning to wonder if they all actually needed replacing. Nevermind...the money has been spent now.

Has this problem appeared recently since the last alignment or been there a while? If it's been there a while, does it coincide with anything else - bush changes, ARB change, clipped a kerb etc?

Not a problem to me They look like the ones M5W TT has fitted.... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showpost.php?p=2518047&postcount=15

From Nic's numbers....see attached pic RED...........52271-14080 Rear Mount Bush x 2 BLUE.........52205-14040 Rear Mount Bush RR-RH x 1 GREEN......52206-14030 Rear Mount Bush RR-LH x 1 YELLOW...52272-14040 Rear Upper Mount Bush x 1 There is also a 52273-14060 (SHOWN IN GREY) Stopper, Rear Suspension Member, Lower but I am not sure if you need this.

No Jamie. The ones you listed sit in the rear hubs and form the outer "bush" of the rear strut rod.

Nice one Jamie - thanks. Have you run that width on Chris Wilson's suspension yet? The offset tells you where the outer edge of the whole wheel will be....it is not a direct measurement of the dish size. However, a wheel with an offset of 30 would potentially have 8mm more space to create a dish compared to an offset of 38mm. Just don't assume that smaller offset = larger dish as that isn't always true. Your wheels will stick out 8mm less than mine. I'm not sure about any dish effects though, sorry. Personally I think a 38mm offset would look good and the benefit of not rolling the arches would probably sway it for me.

Same size and widths as mine but your rear offset is 8mm larger so the rear wheel will sit in 8mm closer to the centre of the car. I reckon with a 265 rear tyre you'd have zero rubbing issues regardless of how soft the suspension is. With a 275 I wouldn't like to say for definite. Has anyone ever had to do anything to their front arches when running a 245/40/18 tyre on an 8.5 wide 35 offset wheel?

Bump.

Bump.

I assume this does not include the speaker itself - is that right Mark? Do you have a photo of the one you are selling? Edit: Scratch that... they weren't showing up on my home PC - now I see them.

Yes sorry - I should've updated the thread. Sold

Slow but steady Mark - I'll be really happy with it once I have my few jobs done like the new intercooler, exhaust mods, remap and CW suspension. Cheers matey. I can't imagine selling it now after all this effort but things do change I suppose. Right now I just want the summer to get here so I can enjoy all the hard work

I've got a pair now

Same wheels as me - what sort of suspension are you running?

I have no problem with doing this at all Chris and have already started the ball rolling. I know my rear arches need to be modified to achieve this (Simon/Baldy is almost certainly going to do that for me). I don't know about the fronts as I haven't checked yet. If the parts turn up in time then I will be replacing my front top arms this weekend and at that point I will be checking the tyre clearance with the spare damper you sent me. Worst case is that I'll be fitting my 17" wheels until the bodywork is sorted or I sell the 18" wheels and buy something more sensible.

Do both the TRD and Titan bars use the standard drop links?