dandan

Very nice, I think I should do the same.

The Nur Spec is a nice sounding exhaust with a double decat.

If I remember rightly the chap selling it had just had it rebuilt following some sort of engine failure and it was to be sold with just a base map installed needing a little more running in before final mapping...I probably still have the emails from him somewhere. I guess that reset the counter on the engine back then so that would make for a good one to track the life of the built engine. Do you recall what mileage was on it when you bought it?

Nick, are you asking about the actual single kit and its components or about the engine itself? Maybe you are asking about both independantly?

I've never been asked my wheel offset by an insurance company - a drop in offset does the same as a spacer in terms of geometry and wheel bearing loading. There aren't many people here running standard wheel width and offset and standard tyres...most run wider wheels and wider tyres and typically less offset so we ought to be able to get a feel for these additional suspension and bearing issues with a few threads an polls.

I think I have cracked it now so no need. I managed to fit the 3 row with the addition of one small piece of pipe on the nearside and 60mm chopped out of one of the pipes on the offside. By this time tomorrow it should be plumbed in properly. John - easy for you to say about buying the pipe kits as you're a good aluminium welder! I made all the pipes up from a selection of bends and shapes and got someone else to weld them together - worked perfect but slightly long winded. At the same time l and had weld beads put on the ends to help with hose retention...works perfect. I need to learn to weld aluminium Jamie - what happened to yours? Did they collapse or crack or something?

What is it that people don't like about a hub centric spacer that uses a second set of studs as opposed to a hubcentric spacers with longer studs in the OE flange? Is it the fact that there are double the fasteners to hold the wheel on?

Hopefully I'll be finishing my rear suspension arm swap, fitting my Titan anti roll bars and working out what intercooler pipe changes I need to make to fit the Greddy 3 row. In reality the FMIC pipe changes could juice up most of the day

Bump.

I have 245 40 Eagle F1 tyres on mine and get zero rubbing at the moment. I have the arch liners off at the mo so i'll take a look how close things get. . .

What size and make of tyres? I assume your wheels are same as mine at 8.5 x 18 with a 35mm offset.

If you haven't already, i'd take some time and have a real detailed look for a leak from a gasket face or crack somewhere on your exhaust manifold side. Some of the symptoms you mention could be explained by that.

Does anyone have any 3" intercooler pipes they want to sell? I'm going to be replumbing my hotside piping to link up with the Greddy 3 row (which has different inlet angle to my current intercooler) and I'm looking to gather up bits ASAP. Ideally the Greddy 4 row pipes would be perfect or a PHR style feed from turbo to FMIC but in reality I am interested in anything you have available. Anyone got anythng? Cheers Dan

I didn't say it would be easy to confuse one for the other

It looks a bit like a Celica now with that low level spoiler:

What width wheels do you have them on Phil?

Well done Jay - job well done.

Thanks guys - lots of great info in this thread Jamie - I hope it sorts your handling issues out, is he doing the other rear arms too?

Cheers chaps, thanks for the input. I'll give it a go on Saturday then

About 25mm longer on the front

Cool, thanks for the link. Looks like you had some fun and games doing that little lot. I see what you mean about your bolts being put in the wrong way.....weird. I'd try Paul Whiffin and Steve Manley.

That's what is worrying me - after a quick look from under the arch the nuts/bolts look damn near impossible to get at. If mine are as tight as your's (most likely ) then there will be no chance of pissing around with an open ended spanner - I'll need a decent socket or at least a ring spanner on there......and the same to do them back up again.

Has anyone replaced their rear top arms and done it using a jack and axle stands as opposed to using a ramp/lift? I've only had a quick look and the fixing points to the subframe look a little difficult to get to. Does it get a bit more obvious when the car is in the air? Please tell me I don't need to do anything hefty like dropping the subframe to do it? Any pointers will be greatly appreciated? Cheers Dan

I must say a big thank you to RobSheffield for selling and then hand delivering these beauties to me - thanks a bunch Rob Nice to meet you today mate. I need to do a bit of investigation to see if the front bar will fit with my existing intercooler pipe routing on the hot side. I suspect I may have to alter the piping a little and if that's the case I will hold off until I fit the Greddy 3 row as the piping needs to change a little to fit that anyway. Hopefully this will fit OK and the piping and intercooler can be tackled at a later date after the suspension is all sorted. With any luck both bars will be fitted at the wekend when I finish fitting the last of the suspension arms.