dandan

Up until about a week or so ago, I was running a 4" DP and MP and going down to 3" after the midpipe with the V band to 3" 2 bolt adaptor

I'll be heading back to the rolling road very soon with the fully functioning cutout (all fitted now) so I will post up what changes there are with 3" vs 4" from a back to back test. If Homer's experience is anything to go by I could be well into the 600's which will be a nice suprise Tubo housing will be a 0.81 as before.

Good point - I think a lot of people do overlook this (not saying Jurgen has though).

That sounds extremely high. Did Chris supply the whole lot including top mounts, assembled? Have you spoken to him?

PM'd you Matt

I have at least one 4" V band to 3" 2 bolt adaptor kicking around.

I bought a set identical to this (even in the same sized bag with the permanent marker writing) and they arrived today. Typical

Anyone got one going spare? I believe most people remove these when they fit a chunky aftermarket cat back exhaust. Cheers Dan

Well done fellas

good man

I have one that I removed when I fitted the Bosch pump and single conversion. Drop me a pm if you are interested. (It was in for about 18months and 10-12,000miles).

Ah I see, so how about something of an opposite approach.... Can you move the MAP sensor feed to somewhere reading simple atmo pressure and try the same test again. In theory the CCP should rise and fall (in line with actual boost) as you plotted above if there is a leak path the the crankcase. If not, that'd make a strong case for interference...

That is an extremely small pressure fluctuation you are picking up, not even 1/10 of a psi. Without wanting to sound like I'm stating the obvious...is there any way that you could be seeing interference on the CCP signal from the MAP sensor signal? Have you taken a log in a similar fashion with the CCP sensor hanging free in (for example) the engine bay or inside the car to see if it reads constant?

Am I right to think the the CCP is fluctuating between 90.56 and 91 kPa?

Exhaust manifold to head gaskets please phil.

That may well be the case but that's not how I read your post. I see what you were saying now though. I agree that if any uprated core drops temps to the same as OEM for a given situation there will be no temp related performance increase. Similarly, if an uprated core has the same pressure drop as the OEM for a given set of conditions then there will be no performance increase. However, a more efficient core and end tank design may have the potential to lower intake temps and lower turbine/compressor speed by reducing the presure drop from the compressor outlets to the MAP/boost controller sensor...I suppose the real question relates to that actually happening with any of these intercoolers. I don't know

I don't agree with that at all. That implies that inlet temps play no part in torque/power figures.

Is that for the Tial wastegate or something like that? Edit: I think they are 1.875" and 1.75" so maybe not.

Are they slip joints with the over piece having slits in it to help it clamp down? Can't you just clamp around the outer piece and squeeze it down onto the inner piece?

Good luck with it all matey

I'd just swap the cover and stick with this motor unless it starts giving you grief. From what i gather you may lose some spool and a bit of top end so i'd leave the cover swap till after TR so Ryan can check the fuelling. Everything else ready to roll?

This is how it looks minus the stubby dump/tail pipe: I thought about polishing up the rest of the stainless pipes but there's not really any point. I will do the tailpipe though as that is seen I also repainted the main parts of my intercooler ducting: And I swapped the intercooler itself for something a little meatier I did have to tweak the pipework slightly but nothing too horrific...mainly due to the better end tank design on the Greddy sucking up more space.

You too mate, thanks again for dropping them off. That's not quite how the better half puts it! It sounds mean as hell chaps! :sly: :sly: I need a Youtube account to post up a video now

It'll be interesting to see the dyno plot with the ported housing to see if there are any detrimental effects to spool or top end. When I bought my non billet 67DBB it had a ported "HP" housing and I swapped it for the non ported "H" housing

The exhaust fabrication is 99% done now. This new setup gives 4" from the turbo back to the entrance to the second silencer. At that point it drops to 3" through another silencer and then the backbox - or if the switch is flicked it'll dump out of the open valve It's easy to see the difference in flow area compared to the old piece of pipe... This is the view into the 4" silencer and out of the open dump... I can't wait to see how it sounds. Before it's really driveable, I need to finish the outlet side of the valve with a tailpipe kind of thing and also an additional hanger as I've lost my old mid-mount and I want to get it supported properly again.