dandan

Anyone recognise these wheels? Thanks Dan

Stainless: https://www.jetex.co.uk/jetex/store/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=48

OK cool - I'll knock something up with this sort of info. If we can convince any members/traders to take a few measurements we can end up with a very complete comparison somewhere down the line...

All these setups (Brembo, AP, Stoptech, Alcon etc) have subtle differences and it's not easy to tabulate it all but I think once I have jotted some of it down it'll be easier to pick out the obvious stuff to compare in a few tables along with some supporting text and images. ....Data below is for example purposes only..... Brembo GT Monoblock Complete kit weight for front axle: 28kg Complete kit weight for rear axle: 25kg Disc Size Front 356mm Rear 345mm Brake Torque and Bias Calipers and Materials Cast aluminium monoblock front caliper Six chrome plated steel pistons - 36, 30, 28mm diameter Front bare caliper weight (no pads or mounting brackets) ??kg Front caliper weight including pads and mounting brackets ??kg Steel mounting bracket Cast aluminium two piece bolted rear caliper Four chrome plated steel pistons - 32, 30mm diameter Rear bare caliper weight (no pads or mounting brackets) ??kg Rear caliper weight including pads and mounting brackets ??kg Steel mounting bracket Float Mechanism Float in disc Oval hole in disc (typically an 8.15mm by 10.25mm) Round hole in bell Bobbin passes through disc and bell transmitting torque from one to the other Bobbin pushes through from front of bell and has female thread (like a nut) Bolt comes through from rear of disc and screws into bobbin Bobbin is longer than the combined thickness of the disc and bell so bolt “does up” against the bobbin and the disc and bell are left to rattle freely sliding back and fro on the bobbin McLaren anti rattle shim (usually on back of disc) included on alternate fixings (regular washer used elsewhere) So.....would this info be useful/welcome? Anything else people want to know?

Were they flush with the ID of the turbo intake pipe Jay? If so, are you able to get something there that protrudes in further to see if that pulls more?

Nice job, glad you got all your issues sorted. 654bhp at 1.45bar on SRR is very respectable anyway. I bet it feels great now

Thanks dude Yeah now that I think about it the standard Alcon silver should look pretty sweet against the dark colours of the wheels and body. All my pressure readings were from my Defi boost gauge which, to be honest, is not that accuarate at all so I only used it for relative comparisons. At the time it was also plumbed into the catch can rather than the dipstick tube. I'll get something more accurate hooked up and feed back. Thanks Geo. You're right, they are by no means the cheapest and it's not helped by the fact that a "kit" isn't commonly available. One place in Oz does a front kit for £2750 plus shipping. http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.php?cPath=57_228_229_243&products_id=1506 However, you can buy the calipers and discs from Ears Motorsport - front calipers are ~£1100, discs are ~£550, the Carbotech XP8 pads I'm using are £250 a set. Then you need to add on the cost of bells, floating/mounting hardware, caliper brackets and then other bits like hoses and fluid if you need them. Depending on how much you can do/source yourself you're looking at anything from £2100-2500 as a rough guess for a front setup. If you wanted a more conventional pad like the Ferodo DS2500 it would probably work out cheaper to buy an Alcon kit for another car (£1800 roughly) and then get different bells and caliper brackets made for the Supra fitment - that would probably save a few hundred quid over buying it all separately and you'd have a few spare bits to sell on another forum somewhere. The rear calipers are a little cheaper than the 6 pot fronts and I am going to be using them with OEM UK rear discs. The rear XP8 pads are also a little cheaper at ~£200 but the calipers still need to be mounted on custom brackets.

No sweat, I hope it's useful. I may well have missed this bit but how and where are you measuring pressure J ay ?

Mine comes in just like that picture with two subtle differences. The angle of mine is slightly less than 45 degrees - that is purely related to the piping under the car though. Secondly, mine poke it a significant way...probably more like 20mm. Again this is due to their location. I have them on the inside of a bend in my midpipe where the exhaust flow is negligible and relatively slow. I wanted to poke them in further to where there was some decent exhaust velocity. If they entered the outside of the bend then I'd be happy with them stuck in by 6mm or so. I can't point you to any direct links but I can tell you what I settled on....On the intake side to my turbo my "tube" sticks in about 6mm and it is at 90degrees - if my engine bay installation would allow it I would feed it in at an angle like the exhaust but that's not really practical. To get the best (greatest) suction the open part of the breather tube needs to be at the point of max velocity in the pipe (be that the turbo intake or exhaust). There is obviously a compromise here as you don't want a 13mm diameter steel pipe poking halfway across your turbo intake as the flow disturbance wouldn't do you any favours.

Here's a quick peek at my next major mod....all round custom Alcon brake setup. I'm really looking forward to getting this work underway as it's been on the cards for ages but I've been putting it off whilst getting other things done. This is one of the front calipers shown against my wheels that desperately need a wash after some heavy braking action this week. The rears are almost identical but are 4 piston and only have one strengthening rib as part of their monoblock design. Right now I am waiting on some special pads for the rear calipers made by Carbotech in their XP8 compound. As soon as I have the pads I'll make a start

Good idea - this will need members to post up info though. I have all the weight info for OEM and Alcon 4 pot and 6 pot monoblocks...nothing else though.

That would mean changes to intake, IC pipes, and downpipe though. Plus I would recommend a lot of porting to get the manifold to flow well and I suspect Jay won't be interested in all this effort to quiten the wastegate down. Also, I'm not sure whether you'd see any power loss from the cast manifold up at 700hp+ I'd put mine against any other car on the RR running same cams, turbo and let's say 1.7bar boost and would be confident there'd be no loss of power up until the 620 kind of area. Above that I wouldn't be so sure

I thought that may be the case mate There is a lot of room down there with a cast manifold which makes certain jobs very easy.

Mine is a piece of p!ss to get in and out mate but I may have a little more room than you. Undo 3" turbo V band, undo 4" midpipe V band, undo 2 small V bands on wastegate pipe feeding downpipe, unclip O2 sensor and pull downpipe up and out.

Thanks for the kind comments chaps Sure is Paul. That provides a vac source when "on boost" if the exhaust bypass valve is shut. When that valve is shut and I am running through all three exhaust silencers over the full exhaust length the exhaust vac'd breathers don't provide enough vacuum (exhaust seems too restrictive) so this one supplements it. With the bypass valve open the exhaust vac system is more than sufficient....but sometimes I drive it reasonably hard in "quiet mode" with the bypass valve shut so I added this one in.

Here you go...these pics from SF may be useful. Don't use hose like this clear stuff though.

New clutch slave cylinder fitted along with one of Mr Whiffin's braided clutch hoses - thanks Paul. I also had a few bits powder coated once I got the breather side of things sorted out...all looks a bit tidier now and I'll post a couple of decent shots up once I've had chance to give the engine bay a bit of a clean.

Any photos?

How about drifting lessons in return?

You guys crack me up - gotta love a good visual aid! I'll be off work for a few days near then end of the month so I'll try to put something together then about the various float configurations and materials. I have enough info and pics to explain the floating mechanism on the Brembo GT kits, Alcons road and race kits, various AP setups and a couple of others. If somebody wants to purge it or amend it for some sort of FAQ type thread then that's fine by me. In the meantime if anyone can help with the following it would be great as I could get a more complete list uptogether. 1. Brembo BBK rear caliper piston diameters 2. Brembo BBK rear caliper pad depths 3. AP race rear caliper piston sizes and pad depth (as per Whifbitz AP BBK) 4. K-Sport - any of the rear caliper piston diameter and pad depths 5. Stoptech - do any of you chaps with Stoptech kits fancy chipping in?

thanks chaps

That's a shame, what about selling it on rather than breaking it as it'd be a shame for it to be gone for good.

Here's a question for any of you london folk.... I need to be in wimbledon tomorrow at 15:00 and should hopefully be leaving by about 15:45. I am travelling from Gloucestershire via the M4. Does anyone know whether the M4 straight in past the M25 is best or should I drop down off the M4 at reading to the M3 and then go a little way around the M25 and head up in towards Wimbledon on the A3. Sat nav says first option and RAC route says second one. I am a little concerned about traffic and congestion on my way home. Any ideas on the best route? Thanks Dan

I have the data in more sensible formats (see example below) which I can post up as well but I was waiting for at least the "AP Race" and "Brembo C" rear caliper info to surface before I do that. I also want to double check the numbers as it was some time ago that I put the bulk of this together If "we" wanted to make a useful BBK type thread (rather than opinion based feelings about how good certain setups are) I could post up some facts about piston materials, float mechanisms, bridge design etc to give people an appreciation of how various kits differ. No opinion or recommendations....just the technical differences so people could weigh up which feature/design element/colour is important to them. That could take some time though!

What I didn't want to do is post up a list of my perceived advantages and disadvantages to everyone's brakes.....far too contentious and probably wouldn't sit too well with the vendors If I were to be buying a kit I would consider weight, stiffness, disc internal cooling design, piston material, caliper material, piston area, effective radius, seal design, disc and pad availability, reputation of parts on same cars (not in F1, Indy etc etc), floating design, noise and wheel limitations. I could post up lots of information and facts on what Brembo, KAD, AP, Alcon and a few OEM systems have to offer in those areas but I don't really want to as people will get a bit defensive about what they have and which factor is most important to them.