dandan

Have you measured any rail temps?

Yep sure am. I haven't read your whole thread but if you are doing this as a road car I would consider sticking with stock cams.

I cleared 600hp and managed 590lb.ft of torque on stock J spec cams at 1.7bar on SRR with a cast manifold and older tech T67DBB so you definitely don't need "cams" to hit your 550-600hp. Mine idles and drives as smooth as a BPU supra and the cams have a lot do to with that.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?279613-Large-UK-Diff-Complete-Rebuild-Kit Is this of any interest to you?

From memory I think my switchable exhaust system which can be either... 1) 3" with two straight through silencers 2) 4" with one straight through silencer and dumping out short, near the diff ...gained me about 30lb-40lbft and 30-40hp running in 4" mode. This is at the 590-620hp level with a T67 at 1.7bar with a 4" DP and MP. The gains may well be more if you go all the way back to the turbo at 3". IMHO 3" vs. 4" would depend on what power you are aiming for, whether you can get it all to the ground under 120mph (very important) and what you can tolerate noise wise.

http://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/box-details.php?id=6 Ah that's a shame. Is there much in the way of mpg gain with one of those modules? Are they similar to a DTUK type piggyback? ....

Hi lee, can you do anything meaningful with a 2003 Toyota Landcruiser Amazon - 4.2 TD?

Very nice - love the car Could you post up a photo of the adjustable links when you get them please? I was going to make some for exactly this reason but if Whiteline ones do the job.....

I fitted a PAS cooler on my car when I installed the FMIC. With all the ducting there was no space for the OEM cooler pipes so I have a little oil cooler in the near side bumper hole

There are 3 things that would put me off that straight away.... 1. The wastegate adaptor flange is very thin for a 2 bolt flange and (IMHO) won't remain leak free for long 2. No flex in wastegate pipe 3. Horrible wastegate pipe re-entry into downpipe Plus it's all a bit of a gross pseudo chrome finish

Try anplumbing .com - they've always provided a good service to me and prices are ok too.

I think that should read "has not" Sounds like a top service chaps. Can you do anything with a 2007 1.6 TDCi Focus? (It has a DPF).

A less than perfect joint that doesn't cause a problem until it's seen a few heat cycles and some vibration.....and then it intermittently renders the car undriveable a long way from home on a summer road trip On a positive note - the car looks lovely mate, well done

Can't you use the key to lock it manually?

You need the prop and one drive shaft (near side I think).

If you decide to do this then I could sell you my winter tyres if you are interested. My stock 17" wheels don't fit any more because of my bigger brakes so I could whip the tyres off and sell them on. They're Continental Winter Contacts and are excellent on ice and snow.

No, stock twins with a full decat make for a nice road car.

I had to use my the year before last for a week or so as I was "between cars". It happened during the worst snow fall I've ever known and then when we had all frozen snow on the ground for a while. The Supra was great. I drove on ice and compacted snow regularly and was going past stranded X5s, and other such Chelsea tractors more often than I thought. I did have Continental snow tyres on though - 225 up front and 245 on the rear on 17" stock rims It drove brilliantly. The tyres made a huge difference - with the eagle F1s fitted it would not move forward on any sort of cambered road.

I removed the trac butterfly in my single 6 speed as the Syvecs doesn't use it.

The return line isn't "connected" to the high pressure part of the fuel line or rail, unless the pressure in the rail is above the setting of the FPR - that's just a function of the fact it holds the preset pressure. With the engine off, the FPR will be closed and nothing should go back down the return line (ignoring leakage in the FPR). What happens if you put the ignition on and wait for five seconds before you crank? Or better still, turn the ignition on for 5secs, then off very briefly and back on again, give it another 5secs before cranking. If it starts then you have been struggling with not enough fuel in the rail when cranking.

Good idea Paul

I have an excellent set of Continental winter tyres on facelift 17" rims for sale if anyone is looking for a set. Drop me a pm if you're in the market for some - they transform the car on cold winter roads and make driving on snow or ice an altogether more pleasant experience.

Ahem.......rebuild? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?279613-Large-UK-Diff-Complete-Rebuild-Kit

Hey Chris, I'd have no reservations about the cast manifold depending on your intended turbo choice and what you are trying to achieve. I don't think I am at "the limit" by any means. I have a Greddy intake to go onto mine and was also thinking about trying a 6766 but the car has taken a bit of a back seat in preference to working on the house lately. I would make sure you port the manifold and open the wastegate port right up with very long smooth transitions into it from the main part of the manifold. I would also make sure you join the wastegate dump tube back into the downpipe, keep all the wastegate piping very smooth with no real turns, make sure the downpipe is 4" (and ideally the exhaust), and don't go silly on the turbo A/R - the spool will be very fast anyway so you don't need to choke things up. Back when I first did it, my 0.81 A/R 6776 was spooling faster than Jamie's 0.68 A/R 6776 (tubular manifold) and making more torque and power at the same boost. What turbo are you planning to use and what is this for - road use, drag racing, track use etc?

Thanks Kirk.