dandan

Aren't Jamesy's 11inch with a 24mm offset? Not a massive difference but probably works out to about 5mm more room at the outside than the 11.5 ET25. Does he run the 295 R888 on those bad boys? Jamesy - are you out there mate?

How much you after mate?

What tyre do you want to run up front?

Can I have one too?

8" and 9.5" I have 225/50 and 245/45 on mine right now. It rides beautifully

They do a fair bit to ensure the weld is good and check for micro cracks and porosity with dye penetrant so as far as welded wheels go I'd say they are very thorough but I have never visited the place to see the process in action. My WedsSport wheels are 3 pieces and the inner and outer barrel are welded together and the centre is bolted in. My Racing Hart Wheels were made to look like split rim but they were also welded together. How did you get on with Big Jim?

Very nice indeed mate I wonder if anyone does an uprated donut (no use to you I know).

Jim at BJR is a very helpful guy who I have discussed this sort f thing with at length and if I was going to widen any wheels i would go with BJR as it seems like a very capable company. A while back I was looking to widen the stockers but unfortunately I can't do that any more as they won't clear my front brakes. I'm still going for a 315/35/17 rear though Yeah that 315/35 on a 17 is a decent wall height at ~110mm which is almost identical to a 275/40/17. There's a 315/35/17 R888 too I'm hoping for lots more grip...enough to make it not worth the potentially better looking 315/30/18. Some of the more recent Porches run a hubcentric spacer as standard - can't remember which one though.

About £80 per wheel for a 2" widen plus about £65 per wheel if you want the welds smoothed on the inside and fully repainted. I'm not sure what happens if you add 3.5" to get you to 11.5 but I would assume it'll cost more. You'll also want something close to a 1.75" wide spacer if you're taking the front ones out to 11.5 (as opposed to the back wheels which are already 9.5"). There's not a lot of room for error in offsets if you go to 11.5 with a 315 tyre but you'll need to be somewhere in the 46-50mm range and that all depends on your clearance to the coilover, clearance to the body and room at the outside where the arches are rolled. If you have the arches rolled well then you could live with a 48mm offset. If you are doing it with big spacers then it is easy to tweak it will it is right as you can start with something like a 50mm spacer (which will give you a 44mm offset) and try it. Then you can see how much room you have on the inside and decide how much to skim the spacer down to in order to bring the wheel closer to the coilover and body on the inside. If you can get the spacer down to 45mm (which makes the whole thing equivalent to a 49mm offset) then you will be fine on the outside at the rolled arch as that's exactly where my tyre edge sits now. If you are putting the 9.5" OEM wheel upfront then you will need to modify your calipers a little so the wheel actually fits. Apparently there is some sort of casted tab on the caliper which is there to stop people accidentally switching the wheels front to rear.

I may have a spare pair - will take a look and let you know mate as I can't remember.

I think those brackets are steel not aluminium. I definitely wold not bother with an aluminium one...but if my cams were interference I'd go for a steel one just for peace of mind.

What you going for long term dude, something custom or something off the shelf? Funnily enough I just exchanged a few emails with him on wheel choice after a few discussions that have been going on here recently about CCW and other nice wheel setups. MVP can get anything CCW and the price will be fair too, plus it's MVP so the service is excellent. I'm in the market for some new wheels and rubber and have been spending a while chewing over the options. I just sent an email to CCW to ask about my Alcon front brake setup and whether they do anything to clear my 365mm discs and monster calipers - I know the CCW Classics won't fit

Nice work, well done.

Thanks for the replies guys, sorry for not replying sooner. That's the kind of response I was hoping for. I don't want anything that is too "look at me....look at me!" or screams anything at all really - just something that looks smart and functional and looks "nice enough"; it seems that the general consensus is something close to that I love the GTRs too - damn shame they don't do something like a 17x11.5 ET46-50 They would indeed Glad you got your's sold Rob, well done - smashing wheels As JP said - way too wide for me on my car. Thanks for the advice Chris - I'll be sure to get everything nailed down in writing before going anywhere and would like to do some mock ups or trial fits first to be 100% happy as the 315 tyre is tight on a stock bodied car with little (if any) margin for error. I had some MB Racing alloys a long time ago on a track mini and they were extremely light and tough...they were 10" diameter though

I need to have a think about exactly when I'm going to do these mods as I want the car in tip-top shape for the summer but the plan is something like: ASAP: Surrey rolling road trip with Ryan to see how the new turbo compares to the old 67DBB Get rear arches rolled Sort out my rear wheel setup to get the 315/35/17 tyres on for better dry traction Fit the Alcon six pot monoblock front brakes and four pot monoblock rears Corner weighting and full geo again That may be all I get time for in the next month or two! To follow: Battery relocation and fit the Greddy plenum and Q45 throttle Surrey rolling road trip with Ryan for final mapping Longer term: Consider a cam change Budget for a better clutch as the 315 tyres and 590lb.ft torque will take their toll eventually Consider building up a spare longblock for peace of mind

OK - thanks. I wondered if I needed a "big diff" prop to change diffs from small to big. Guess not - thanks.

Does this need to be used with any particular diff JP?

Facelift cars have slightly softer bushes on the lower front arms - all in the name of refinement. I removed facelift and fitted pre-facelift without issue. ARBs...I'd remove them, check for rust under the bushes (this is where they seem to break). If they are both OK then I'd rub them down, repaint, and refit with new drop links and new rubbers.

Cheers JP

Anyone know if a 16" will go on the rear clearing the UK brakes?

We've got three different sets of winter tyres altogether.... 205/55/16 Wintersports on the Mazda 6, Wintercontact TS810 on the Supra (225/50/17 and 245/45/17 although I fitted them and haven't took it out the garage since.....wimp!) and a set of Vredestein Snowtrac 3's in 195/65/15 waiting to go on the new Focus daily driver when the garage finally opens and I can go get it. I also just bought a set of Maxxis Presa Snow for my mum's Astra coupe as she is struggling on her 18's!! Let's hope mytyres.co.uk deliver as planned so the old dear will be mobile by Xmas!! They make a huuuge difference on the auto Mazda. Normally it is undriveable on ice or snow - no joke. It would simply spin the wheels pretty much at idle with with the normal Avon tyres on and now I haven't yet found a road that has caused me a problem (wet slush, sheet ice, compacted snow, fresh thick snow up to 3"). The big thing really is the braking on ice is much improved and afterall, that's arguably the most important thing. Edit: Attached is a snap of the Dunlop Wintersport tread pattern on snow compared to a normal tyre.

Ah yes I remember, thanks. I was getting them confused with the juns. I'm interested but can't jump on them this side of crimbo really so if they're still around in a week or so I'll be in touch. Another bump for you anyway

Which engine combo did these come out of mate? Didn't you flog these ages ago or is this a different set?

The whistle is pretty loud - I actually thought I might have a downpipe leak but it's all fine. It starts off boost as building towards zero boost and seems loudest with very slight throttle accelerating real slow or maintaining a fast cruise speed. Once on boost the noise is drowned out by general intake roar and engine noise. Not been above 1.2bar yet though so no real idea about potential performance. Thanks guys - much appreciated We were going to do it this week but Ryan couldn't make it in the end due to ther commitments - no big deal though given the weather The plan now is to do it ASAP in January and that'll pretty much be up to Ryan and when he starts work again (assuming the weather is ok).

Do any of you guys spend any time working with FEA on threads? I do a lot of FEA but have never really tackled threaded connections (looking at different thread forms, double shouldering, combined bending, torsion and tension etc) in great detail in any FEA package. I have something I am trying to chew through now and it highlighted a gap in my knowledge which I'd like to fill. Anyone out there with any relevant experience in this area Cheers Dan