dandan

If it'll fit the V160 I'll have it.

Yes I reckon a 50 offset looks spot on - I thought mine stuck out too much at 45mm but I'm gonna give it some time to decide. I just wanted Paul to be aware that if he planned to sell wide wheels as per the CCW 11.5s and the 50 offset he might need to include a few words of warning about stock or Bilstein suspension setups and the necessary "fitting practices"

Kind of mate .... I had to limit my suspension droop by 15mm and do a little bodywork on the inner arch butafter all that I have plenty body clearance now. I could probably come back closer to a 50 offset but there'd be no chance with normal Bilsteins. The other obstacle is hitting the spring so I changed those too! One bloke replied to somebody's 315 rubbing question on SF with "my wheels did the same thing...i have 19x13 ccw 505a's...the trick is, place the jack under the control arm and jack it up just high enough for the wheels to clear the springs...bolt the wheel on, then drop the car "

If you ask them - they hit the bodywork. When anyone posts up there and questions it they get told it's normal though, a bit like the caliper rubbing up front. With a Tein or similar coilover they won't rub the body as the suspension hardly droops at all. I'll dig out a pic...

Bear in mind they run a 285/30/18 up front on that 10" rim - nothing else. That may be a little limiting for some people. A 275/35/18 does not work (too tall) and a 265 is very stretched on a 10" rim.

My 11.5" rear is setup with a 45mm offset and 315 tyre - with stock or any Bilstein dampers the tyre will hit the inner wheel arch at full droop even at that offset. A 50mm would be even worse but I know they do it on SF and put up with the ballache fitting the wheels and the risk of bodywork contact

Yeah spot on - the gixxerdrew stuff is very similar (or vice versa actually) although the sleeve cutting and the taper part of the sleeve sitting on the C clip isn't a good way to do it. I have a new C clip groove on the damper body so the sleeves fits correctly and with masses of adjustment. There's a photo of my old setup with CW's springs on that thread somewhere.

Paul - this sounds like a great idea. What about starting with most desirable tyre sizes and then sizing the wheel widths to suit....then the offsets. I'm sure a lot of people would like a 265/35/18 up front (275/35/18 seems to big no matter the offset) and the rear tyre availability leaves a lot to be desired above 295 in 18". What size tyres are you thinking people will run at the rear?

I had to test my existing springs, plot the info to get the stifness and then go from there to choose what I wanted. On test.... This is the plot of deflection and force. I removed the numbers as CW probably doesn't want part of his suspension recipe disclosed to everyone These springs have two different rates which is different to any OEM springs I tested - and this is what made it a little tricky to replicate with off the shelf parts. The seats are totally different now. Originally I modified a Bilstein seat and had to get it built up on the underside with loads of weld and them machined it flat to sit on a regular adjustable seat. That allowed me to use Chris' springs with the height adjustable kit. You can see that piece on the top assembly with the big spring. Then when I changed to the new springs that was not needed - now I just have the adjustable seat on the threaded sleeve plus a brass washer that isn't shown. I'll get a photo of that when I have all the parts uptogether at the weekend. The top mount is a regular 2.5" spring part too and it sits nicely in the OEM top mount. I can dig out some part number if you need them. From the normal (or CW setup) there are a two custom machined bits needed, plus a different bumpstop, the adjuster sleeve and top seat. I'll get a photo of it all at the weekend. I haven't driven it in anger yet though so I'm not getting too carried away - the proof will be in the driving. I'll test my new springs tomorrow on the press though to see how they compare and see how close my maths works out to the real thing!! I paid about £530 including postage. They're about the same price as R888s and both are available from Camskill.

If the wheel width is 9.5 in between the beads (i.e. an actual 9.5" wheel) and he measure the 5.5" from the furthest inward point of the wheel to the hub face I get 6mm too because a 9.5" wheel will actually measure 10.5" total width. So the centreline for zero offset is 5.25" in from the edge of the wheel. If he's measuring 5.5" then that's as good as 6mm offset. If it's an 8.5" wheel (measuring 9.5" total) then I make it 19mm.

I've just realized you said "collection" - Herts is a bit of a trek for me to come over there and collect mate so I will pass. They're a little chunky to post Cracking buy for someone though.

Cheers fellas. The arches were done by Chaz from ArchEnemy; he came to me to do them and I think it cost something like £180 but can't remember exactly. I was surprised at the rolling on the front as it created quite a bit more room which is great. They're Vredestein Ultrac Sessantas 315/35/17 102Y - they're the stickiest road tyre I could find without going to an R888. I spent a fair bit of time on the phone to one of the engineers at Vredestein talking about the car and what I wanted from the tyres and they were very helpful and interested in the car and the power/speed side of things. They're 2.5" ID coilover springs Steve and you can get them almost anywhere but mine were from Faulkners. After giving it a bit of thought I could have probably got them from Demon Tweeks a tiny bit cheaper with the 10% club discount but it's no big deal. They have a lot of choice too - Eibach Race, Faulkner, Tein etc etc http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Search.do?method=delegate&n=1738&s=spring

Nice little item - GLWS.

I'm interested. Is that with the top mounts as well mate or just springs and dampers?

Good point - mines for a V160

I'm 99% certain I have a brand new one but need to check my brother didn't steal it. I'll give him a call tonight to find out.

Where did you getit from, I could find a use for a couple of those!

OK thanks mate.

Is it one bolt at the back of each piece of rail that causes the problems? My car is up on axle stands at the mo so I will have a proper snoop around underneath to seat what the "bolt through" option looks like.

Ah right gotcha - I can picture that now after looking at the pic a few pages back. Might it be any easier with studs coming up off the floor so it's then a case of getting a nut on or would that still be a major ballache?

Smashing. I can live without adjustable - I want max headroom and max legroom (headroom being more important). All I want now is a boss to move the wheel closer

Sorry if I missed the point but will these help sit my OEM Recaros any lower or are they for aftermarket seats?

I'll take the diff if it falls through.

I'm in the process of removing my 18 rears and fitting a set of 315/35/17s in pursuit of a little more sidewall so I can get some power down in second gear and hopefully all of it in third plus a wider stance is no bad thing This is the 315 next to my current 275 rear! The first step was some arch rolling - I had the fronts done as well because I'll be fitting my 9.5" 18s up front once I have the rears sorted. Then I had to do a little redesign on the CW suspension to reduce the space the springs take up as the wheels and tyres hit the spring and spring seat when the suspension drooped fully. A few people (on Supraforums) don't seem to bothered by this and they put the wheels on loose and then do the wheel nuts up as the car is lowered down and the wheel can be pushed on properly. I wasn't too keen on that approach because it sounds like a pain to put wheels on and off but more importantly there'd be some heavy wheel/spring contact if I happened to get any hang time over humpback bridges and gave the suspension a chance to droop fully ! I went a tiny bit softer on the main spring rate too as the car felt like it could handle being a tad softer. It's not all 100% ready to run on the road yet as I'm waiting for some new bumpstops to arrive. All I've been doing so far is test fitting to make sure everything works with the springs, arch rolling, and tyre clearance eveywhere. Old vs new.... This is 275/35/18 vs 315/35/17 Front and rear shots with the 315s - I thought the 315 was sticking out too far and looked a bit stupid but with the suspension settled it seems to be fine. Once I get the bumpstops I need I'll get everything assembled and then see if there's any difference in traction.....plus some decent photos with the 9.5" wide wheels up front.

I've done a little googling and apparently a 15amp draw is not uncommon at 5bar pump pressure (this is not the pressure at the rail). If they're running at 13volts and 15amps then the power would increase to 390watts which (by the same workings above) works out to a 310watt heater in the tank. With a quarter tank of fuel I think that only works out to a 14degreeC temp rise in an hour.