dandan

Ok guys, I know the internal differences between the UK and Jap turbos, such as turbine size and material and also wategate size. But I have a couple of questions related to a certain car. The 2nd turbo blew after 52,000 miles (running up to 1.0 bar) and owner tells me that both turbos were then replaced with brand new pair from Turbo Technics about 6 weeks ago. From what I can see of the turbos they certainly look brand new. The car is a 96 Facelift so obviously Jap. I am trying to find out whether the replacements are Jap or UK spec. Can I tell from the external appearance of the turbos (with everything fitted to car.) what they are? Is it possible that steel internals could have been put into Jap housings? And then TTech supply and fit these as replacements? Basically I'm not sure what spec the turbos are and neither is the owner and I'd like to find out. Cheers guys.

cheers Gordon, nice one. any more "guesstimates", come on people, help me out here pleeeeease

Hi all, can anyone here give me a "rough" idea of costs for the following jobs, be it from past experience or direct (eg CW or Nathan etc) Cambelt change -Uk fuel pump installation to replace jap pump -Adjust spoiler lowering circuitry from kph to mph (speedo already done) -Split rim wheel refurb on pair of 18 x 10 and pair of 18x9 as below -Setting up Blitz boost controller (already installed but not connected) Thanks guys, any reasonable guesses would be a great help, for haggling purposes!!!!

what makes the trl better than the greddy and the hks? any significant difference in cost and/or ease of installation and/or performance and reliability between the three ?

martin, how come you fitted the hks fcd if it's meant to be less than ideal and the greddy is supposedly the best?

appreciate that totally chris, i've been working on a fairly rapid road legal race mini for ages...now rose jointed all round and all adjusted (camber, castor toe, height, damping) to what now seems the optimum, it runs on..........wait for it...... 10"x6" wheels with 165 - 70 - R10 Yoko A032-R all round. I haven't really met anything (or anyone) that can out corner this little minature - low weight is a great thing round corners!!

thanks chris, as always - really appreciate your opinion. i sent you a pm

seen as i'm used to hammering little cars round corners that stick like sh*te to a blanket..... i'd like to go for something fairly decent giving good grip and hopefully some degree of feedback and predictability! ... but not so hard as to be bone jarring on the road. how do your konis compare to the std uk and jap dampers chris, and is there any form of adjsustment to damping or ride height? if not, then what sort of ride height am i looking at, the car has 18x10 on the rear with 285 40's i THINK any chance of a price just for the rear...funds are gonna be a little restricted for a while if i do buy the car

any idea of a rough cost for a decent set of rear springs and dampers including fitting via someone like yourself chris? you can pm me if you don't want to post any rough figures up here are all the teins cr@p then? what would you suggest? apparently these ones have been knocking since the owner bought the car in 2000 and he isn't too worried!

hi chris can you remember the conversation i had with you a while ago about going to look at a Jap spec 1996 facelift (whether it was worth me doing a compression test etc) and the possibility of you checking ot over? well, this is the car. guess what...the suspension is knocking at the back both sides but seems worse on the left. Seems a lot worse on "difficult" uneven road surfaces. any ideas what the problem could be (dampers, mounts, permanent damage to car itself??) i know this is a bit of an open ended question but a reasonable diagnosis would be handy for bartering thanks for any advice again chris

hmmmm, he definately said 24 to me, but a few other things he's told me were a little iffy....not in a bad way just misinformed! i'll keep looking, cheers eyefi

thanks eyefi i haven't looked underneath but i'm sure he said they were green

Hi Guys, Got a quick question (which i have already searched for!!!): I'm looking to buy a mkiv and the owner tells me it has 24 point adj dampers. He's showed me the adjusters in the engine bay but he does not know the make of the kit. Can anyone tell me the names of any 24 point adjustable suspension kits around. Car is 1996 imported in 2000 with this suspension fitted. Thanks in advance............

eyefi, that engine is for a single seat race series car called Formula Student, anyone heard of it,check out http://www.formulastudent.com i finished my masters degree in mechanical engineering this year and am now being employed by university to build the complete modified engine for 2004 competition. Most engines, except for a few of the mega budget US teams, are pretty basic. This one by comparison is a bit of a beast!

thought so.....so the "dumped air" is pretty hot, it hasn't had the pleasure of a cool down thru the intercooler!

is bov after intercooler....cant place it off the top off my head!

yeh i'm not sure of any specific temps, but the air has been compressed and heated and then literally dumped back in behind compressor to be heated again!! Obviously this is only a transient thing and not happening constantly so effect MAY be small. Perhaps someone should try to get a thermocouple in there and get some temps?!?

on a normal car the injectors would normally cut till around a few hundred rpm above idle speed, then fire again. This is definately not the case when the anti lag is switched on. This is an advanced feature, only really available in good aftermarket ecu's...

what i descibed is what happens when the antilag is engaged. I'm in the process of building a 599cc Yamaha engine, turbocharged, antilag, dta engine management, aquamist 2s water inj, dry sump lubed etc. This is exactly how the antilag in the dta system works not good for exhaust valves, turbines or exhaust manifolds hence mega expensive inconel s.steel exh manifolds on wrc cars

hi guys, i was just reading over the thread and thought I'd add a few lines if ya don't mind. I think one of the reasons for a BOV that vents to atmosphere is to help achieve a cooler intake charge. Air blown out of the turbo is obviously hotter than ambient, as compressing air always causes a temperature rise. (better the turbo efficiency-lower the temperature rise) If during a gear change (or similar) the BOV bypasses this air back to before the turbo then effectively the charge temperature is increased. An antilag system usually uses a large solenoid valve (or similar) to bypass air around the closed throttle. Fuel is then injected into the cylinder via the injectors. The ignition timing is then drastically retarded, igniting the charge as it's passing out of the combustion chamber. The resultant heat produced maintains the turbine speed, ready for when the throttle is depressed. I'm not trying to tell anyone to suck eggs here, I just thought I'd add my own view.

cheers guys.....before you all wander tooo far from the original post i'll let you know that i got a photo of the plate and compared it to the one on mkiv.......it's a GZ. Thanks all, especially James G and Doug Cheers

Hi all, Just a quick one, How do you tell if a Supra is a GZ or an RZ, the bl@@dy owner does not seem to know! It has recaros, front spoiler, lsd, sideskirts, 2 airbags.... it's Nreg, 1996, but funnily enough when i put the reg into an insurance database it gave the year of manufacture as 2000! Is this possible?? Any ideas folks....pretty important as Im trying to sort out insurance!! Thanks

thanks everyone, well spotted alex and martin and thanks to everyone else for looking too. I'll let you know how i get on, do the battery terminals look a bit clustered to anyone, perhaps alarm connections or similar??

thanks mos for that mate, (translated...dan stop bugging us!!!). i just wanna get as many things cleared up as possible so i can nail him with a few key things and hopefully get the price down a bit too. thanks t everyone else too, i really really appreciate everyones help bit nervous about blowing 15k on a 7 year old car and having a major problem 6 months down the line !! should the cam belt have been changed even though mileage is 52,000, is it 6yrs, 60,000miles for change??

the bleeders have been on there for ages before he blew the turbos.......not sure about this bloke! i think he puts all his faith in the garage and goes on whatever they say, maybe they couldn't sort out the electronics and suggested the bleed valves. Then, not knowing the workings of a Supra, they told him to fit 2, 1 to each turbo. i'm not sure whether seeing the cats in place is gonna be good or bad.. Cats in : better boost control, excessive heat at high boost Cats out: possible mega high boost, less heat and restriction in manifold IF i get the car i think the bleed valves will be chucked and the boost controller will be set up correctly in their place! cheers everyone