dandan

on the car...

more spidery yellow corrosion on the "chrome"

peeling paint area...

Hi Guys, I'm after a bit of advice regarding some cosmetic work I'm doing on my car. It's off the road anyway while I'm trying to find some Tein suspension parts for my rear dampers so I thought I'd sort out the inside of my facelift headlights. I've gotten them apart as the worst looking part is the "chrome style" rings inside and peeling away to a nasty yellow mess. I want to repaint or rechrome (or whatever the best process is) these rings and respray the inside as they look quite tatty. As you can see from the pic the chrome parts look cr@p and there's a little paint peeling near the fog light area.

I was told by turbo technics that the CT20 is their normal replacement for the supra tt. and that there are loads of supras running around with these replacement turbos so perhaps it's a different spec to the "old" ct20.

Turbo Technics said these were the standard replacement turbos for the import models. The imports do have slightly larger turbos than the uk spec (i believe), everyone says they're smaller but they just that they have lighter internals as the turbine is ceramic. Someone did post pics a while back of uk/jap turbines and jap were clearly larger. (and different colour incidentally). Mine do not have a 360 degree thrust bearing and are not rated for higher boost than the stock turbos are. Can't say about yours though sorry. Has anybody taken the turbos off a jap car and seen what's cast into housing, CT12 or CT20??

i have CT20's on my car with steel internals. Apparently they're the standard replacement from Turbo Technics, but with steel turbine not ceramic. Maybe this is what it is, unless another Toyota has the CT20 also? Anyone confirm that CT20 is the Jap/import spec turbo and the uk have smaller CT12?

Hi all, Taken my rear left damper and spring assembly (Tein HA) off the car this evening in an attempt to track down an annoying rattle/thud/knocking noise from rear left. The unit is still all together as one and I now want to take it apart to check the condition of the mount. Whilst cleaning the threads (for height adjustment) on the damper body the locking "nut" (not actually a nut as such, more a threaded ring) fell apart with light attention from a wire brush! I started to compress the spring but felt that trying more than i did might be dangerous as the coil spring compressor looked "on the limit" due to the tapered shape of the spring. Then when trying to undo the top nut that hold the damper together, the shaft was turning also. Can anyone tell me exactly how to go about taking this apart, I just want to make sure I don't do anything wrong. I have the Tein documents from mkiv.com but thery're not that much use. Also can anyone tell me where I can purchase a new locking "nut/ring" from? Thanks in advance.

thanks a lot, i'll keep you posted

thanks john, i still haven't tackled the job yet. almost definately doing it tommorrow afternoon. thanks again. am i right in thinking: undo top three 12mm nuts, undo lower 19mm nut, push hub down, pull/lever top out first and hey presto??

hi rob, i'm in a similar situation but have already got rid of the lower cat. Check this thread out. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11125

thanks people, thanks for your input darren are you running a uk or jap car? eyefi, i'm getting the feling from everyone that the car sounds louder and better with the cats out so at least that's one definite benefit editted: i'm obviously not with it today, just read your signature!!

ooooh nasty! i remember reading your posts about it steve, gutted. although at least you've got a nice fresh motor to play with now! if i do go ahead i'll get a restrictor put in to hold at about 1.05-1.1 and then adjust "as and when" with my boost controller, hopefully avoiding any high boost meltdowns with a max of perhaps 1.25bar (18.4psi). thanks for your opinions steve, much appreciated

Thanks for looking eyefi, I don't need to get rid of the cat in order to raise the boost as i have a dsbc. I really wanted to know if it was something worth doing performance wise. Most people seem to do it to gain a boost increase. Am i likely to get lower egt's and less hot exhaust gas lurking around combustion chamber after combustion, basically is it a sound step forward as far as modifications go. (i'd like some benefit to offset possible mot trouble)

So what is the general opinion on all cats out? As i said i don't "need" to do it to raise boost so is it worth it? Come on people, don't tell me you've taken your cats and and don't really know what difference it made?!?

no problem chaps. Alex when you say a decent intercooler, are you implying a front mount? At the moment my insurance is a little "tender" and i'm not sure how a fmic would go down. However they're fine with a water injection system (and the cat out if i go for it) so that will probably be my next addition. That should push the detonation barrier a little further away don't you think? I thought the Mine's fuel map only went to 1.1bar, what would happen to the fuelling at over this, ie up to 1.3bar? Got my plugs today NGKBKR7E, going in tommorrow night. Thanks for help on those.

cw suggested those plugs to me i think when i have my service (and probably the first cat out to) he said about £100 a set! regarding cats can you check out this thread and give me your opinions please????? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11125 cheers all

ok sorted alex, thanks. could you do me a favour and check out this thread and give me your opinion please? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11125

cheers alex, nice one. i don't suppose you've got their phone no have you? do they deliver?

As the car is coming up to it's 60,000 mile service in the next couple of months i may just go for the NGK's for now and see how it goes. If there are any problems i'll swap them at the service. Are these the only two decent plugs to use without going into silly money? Any idea where i can get the NGK's from and what i need to gap them to?

Cheers Mike, So does everyone only remove them as a way to increase boost? Are there no other real advantages at all?

I am after people's opinions on the following exhaust configurations. I've got my 60,000 mile service approaching and am considering removing the first cat (as lower 2nd one is already gone) and replacingwith CW pipe and inevitably a restrictor ring. I've heard conflicting arguements for and against leaving the cat in. For: Slightly better fuel economy, lower exh gas temps, cooler running, faster spool up time and nice sound. Against: MOT inconvenience, poorer engine response. If i remember correctly Leon had advised someone against removing the 1st cat as this would slightly damage engine responsiveness and I know Nathan at TDI is not keen on removing them due to boost problems. I am not after a cheap way of increasing boost (less back pressure) as i already have a boost controller. I'd like a restrictor ring put in to keep boost at 1.0bar unless adjusted using controller. What i really want to know is, is there anything (performance/reliability wise) to be gained by replacing the cat with the CW pipe and a suitable ring to bring me down to 1.0bar. What do you think?

Hi all, I'm looking to replace my plugs asap but am stuck as to the best type. I've searched all past posts but got no real feel for the best plug for my spec. I believe one of the NGK types is suitable but not sure exact one. Don't really want to shell out megabucks for HKS so can anyone recommend a plug, with rough cost and supplier please. 58,000 mile T Turbo Steel turbine jap turbos 2nd cat out (first to follow very soon) Trial exhaust Apexi BOV DSBC Running from 1.00 - 1.15 bar of boost Any suggestions much appreciated.

ian, what other mods are you running? Stock turbos and intercooler? What sort of boost did you get those results at, and are you a jap or uk owner? Sorry for the questions, just wondered how much it takes so achieve similar performance.

The dsbc is installed EXACTLY as per mkiv.com. I did wonder whether the vacuum cap over the spare wastegate actuator could cause any problems if it had air trappe under it, but i had a fiddle with it and can't see anything wrong at all installation wise. I would normally put more faith in a mechanical gauge than the dsbc but my HKS gauge is electrical. There are no pipework connections to it. It has (what i think) is a pressure transducer under the bonnet and this feeds the actual gauge an electrical signal coresponding to the boost sensed at the transducer. I wondered if a poor connection (12v or similar) to the gauge or transducer may be preventing it reading higher than 0.6bar - not enough voltage perhaps? When i increased the gain up to about 11 or 12 and set the ration to 58 i can get 1.08bar on the dsbc and still only 0.55-0.6 bar on the hks gauge. The car does feel fast so i have a feeling the dsbc may be correct and something has happened to the gauge. Unless i have a leak somewhere then it would be next to impossible to generate a max of 0.6bar with a Trial exh and large 2nd cat replacement pipe. I am intending to check the gauge soon with another pressure source. The next step i think will be to see if i can find anyone kind enough to let me borrow their dsbc display and see if there's a difference. Adam, (or anyone else) are you not a little dissapointed that the two pressure displays are so different? Have you ever heard of anyone who calibrates boost equipment such as the dsbc? Martin the pressure line for both the gauge and dsbc come from the same pipe (from plenum) with a T piece installed to feed both. Thanks for all the advice chaps, please keep giving me ideas..