dandan

Roy: I have stock airbox so almost definately not wet/damp air off filter being drawn in. May well be different to you in that case. CW: Thanks Chris, I wondered whether it was something like an injector staying open or something depressurising the fuel rail but your suggestion sounds much more logical. IIRC there's often a fair bit of smoke too (light grey, maybe white) which I was trying to convince myself was lots of condensation where it was left standing for so long. Could it be unburnt fuel perhaps or just coincidence? I will definately try the ign process next time it happens. Speak to you soon re. decat etc as per pm.

I have the a TRD bonnet and occasionally have problems starting. This is very rare though - only when the car's been left stationary for about a week. Starter turns over for 7-10secs before engine starts, then idles rough and low, and after a few mins driving, all is ok as if ecu resets itself and sorts itself out. Sound similar at all? I definately have had water around plugs before....seen the rusty water marks (CW - remember the email attachment - suspected coreplug leaking) !!!! Possibly this is similar to roy's trouble. Mine is definately time related though, it could rain solid for 2 days and i'd have no problems. But if dry for a week (undriven) = problem. Editted: Spelling

Hi guys, Under the car the other day checking a few bits before i get the top cat swapped for a CW pipe. (1996 facelift non vvti import tt) Got a few questions: 1. The main lambda sensor for the ecu is in the casting above the top cat so this does not cause any complications with replacing top cat...yes? 2. After that 1st cat i have another small (does not look like lambda) sensor. This is secured with 2 small bolts, although it looks like one is missing or snapped. Is this the sensor that verifies if the cat is working? 3. If so, is this the one that needs replacing with a bit of electrickery from TRL to avoid any fault lights/codes or does the replacement pipe need drilling and tapping and this placed back in that pipe? Or can i simply ignore it and tie it up out of the way? Hope this makes sense people and there's a very simple and cheap solution. I thought only the uk's had an extra sensor like this. Thanks Dan

Welcome to the board hope you find it useful and intersting. I think the general consensus is that for anything alarm related, Matt Harwood is your man. He'll probably post a reply here soon and no doubt quell any worries about fitting the alarm. Personally i can't offer you any advice but somebody will........ edit: i must have took longer typing that than i thought, cuz noone else had replied!!

I don't know for sure if they are ebc or not, but don't know anyone else who manufacture red pads. I've had EBC green and blackstuff pads on different cars in the past and didn't rate them AT ALL.........went back to stock pads with a massive improvement. So anyway, my current red pads are good and i have no problems with themother than they need replacing. May go for a set of CW's pads depending on price. btw i think vvt-i's can have the smaller sliding brake calipers, depends on options chosen by the buyer at the time i think. I have a non vvt-i facelift GZ manual with a limited slip diff, big brakes, side skirts, activ front spoiler, recaro bucket seats and leather rears. - This combination apparently is not GZ spec (and doesn't fall into GZ, RZ RZ-s descriptions) so goes to show there are no hard and fast rules relating to car specs.

Hi guys, Not trying to hijack this thread or anything but seemed a good place to ask: My front pads are RED in colour. Can anyone identify them or suggest a manufacturer with red pads? UK size, i know....very poor untechnical description but just thought i'd try ya?? Gotta replace my front pads very soon you see............ Dan

this thread certainly seemed to die a quick death, any news since the days of old when ecu's were a little less accessible?

Hi roy When u say you changed to a pair of 264's with "barely a murmur of difference " do you mean you couldn't feel any difference at all? What spec and boost are you currently running?

Ok so other than the hks, blitz and apexi intercoolers that we can get hold of, who else makes fmic's. Can you give us a rough idea of size, cost, temp and pressure drops at a certain pressure etc: I think there may well be a fair market amongst us owners for cheaper (no name) fmic's. Paul E 600x300x85mm Dude 600x300x85mm ? ? ?

Hey Steve, I hope you get it sorted mate and the linings aren't totally burnt and worn down to f'all. Get some more fluid in there and let us know how you get on matey. ps: Mine's definately a manual GZ (no doubt) CW: Did you get my second email regarding decat etc Dan

hmmm looks like a good day was had! any more paul?

Ok thanks Matt, Had all the dash out (found a Pivot shift lamp system and speed limiter and display system!!) and a few Clifford bits too. The 5 wire loom(red, black, green, blue,orange) comes out of the control unit and to the Clifford Digital Tilt/Motion Sensor and nowhere else. No spliced wires to others sensors, only this one. I also found the Extended Range Receiver and the Proximity Sensor III. The blue wire went nowhere else except from control unit to Tilt/Motion sensor. I rang you today and spoke to one of your colleagues and he said the Motion sensor would cause the barking and that it is self adjusting. I have now moved it to a "easier" more reachable location in case i need to get at it again. Any ideas as to why i'm getting this barking and some false alarms? He said it'll either be that sensor or a faulty control unit. What do you think? The proximity sensor has a red led and some sort of potentiometer on it, can this reduce sensitivity of the troublesome sensor?? It's a bit of a mystery to me at the moment and my next step after hearing back from you is to cut the blue wire to eliminate a possible faulty sensor. Thanks again Matt!

Thanks for the reply Matt, I'll have a hunt round and try to track down this "extra" sensor and also see if i can find the control box. Apparently the car had an antitilt/jack device fitted, this couldn't be causing the problem could it? Are the sensors ok when exposed to underbonnet heat Matt? I ask as I do get problems sometimes when car's hot and wondered if it could be heat related. I'll get looking (after I find out above getting behind dash!!) and keep you posted. Thanks Matt

cheers eyefi, have you left it with the hose mod or fix actuators open with some tie wire as per mkiv.com? i don't fancy going the full electric method, just to save messing with factory wiring

Are you around Matt? Any chance of a few pointers?? Thanks Dan

Hi all, I've been looking over a few descriptions of the hose ttc mod and thought about giving it a go. I have a dsbc installed and wondered if this interfered with the hose mods made to the front actuator? I have to be honest and say I haven't been out to the car this morning and had a good look to check. Anyone got the hose ttc mod done with dsbc fitted? Also is this hose method recommended or does it put too much strain on the actuators and should i investigate the swithable elec method? Thanks guys

Hi Matt, Don't mean to keep bugging you about my alarm but it's starting to really annoy me now. My local Sextons (Gloucester) rang you yesterday (Friday) regarding the alarm. It's a Concept 300 which apparently has an anti tilt device fitted and (after someone in your sextons listened to the warning tone my car was making over the phone) an Omni sensor too. I have found a sensor under the centre console "Clifford Proximity Sensor III". I thought this was the standard sensor to come with the 300 system and no the Omni sensor. However the chap at my Sextons said this is the sensor that needs adjusting to prevent unnecessary barks/warning tones. Is this correct or should I be trying to track down another sensor somewhere which is the Omni, and needs adjusting? How exactly should the alarm behave? Totally quiet unless someone gets too close and then it barks? or bark only if car is knocked? Then when should actual alarm go off- really hard knock such as me kicking the back wheel (which it does!) I've removed all metal and phone etc from centre console but still get problems. Not all the time though, usually in bad weather or when near trees. However one thing that does concern me is that I can get warning tone/bark when park in open space on nice day when just finished going for a drive ie car is hot. This cariies on for 5-10 mins and alarm siren may then go off too! Sorry to bother you Matt, but can you give me any pointers as my Sextons bloke didn't initially fill me with confidence. Thanks Dan

I think between all of us we're talking about a few different problems: 1. Starting after leaving for less than a few hours - hot starting 2. Starting after leaving for up to a day or overnight 3. Starting after not driving the car for a long period of time eg a week or so All three may well be similar problems such related to a lack of fuel in the rail, which may be due to evaporation or injector not closing as ian suggested. Mine is as case no.3 as it always starts perfectly when driven more often than once a week. I only ever get a problem when cars been left standing for a long time. I doubt this could be either of the above reasons as evaporation or injector symptom would cause a problem in daily starting-but it doesn't. Strange eh? Maybe it's ignition related?

Occasionally (but very rare) I get a similar problem. Plenty of life in the battery and turns over perfectly but won't actually fire for probably 7 or 8 secs. This only ever happens when the cars not been driven for several days (maybe a week or so). It fires up instantly every morning regardless of the weather/temp etc 99.9% of the time. Only have this problem when left standing for a while. Changed plugs-no difference. Full service incl second plug change-no difference. Seem to get a fair bit of condensation when this happens out of the exhaust for a couple of mins, but I've not got my head round it yet.

Yep, looks good to me, especially the whole idea of an interlinked system with the reduction in seperate piggyback units and displays.

I have an Apexi bov with the hardpipe into the throttle body included in the "setup". This is pretty loud, very shrp and crisp with quick gearchanges and low and deep when easing off throttle. It has an adjustable ring around the outside to quieten it down...or make it louder.

Matt, I meant to have a chat to you at S.Pod but didn't get a chance. My car was the Met Grey facelift with gold wheels and trd spoiler and bonnet. I had a thread a week or so ago about my 300 giving out warning tones in the wind etc and also alarm going off "randomly". I can only find the "Proximity Sensor III" under the console. I am presuming that i should be looking for my Omni Sensor and adjusting this, but i don't know where to look. Any pointers, also what sort of size/shape etc? Any idea on cost if i took it to my local Sextons (Gloucester) for them to find and adjust. I just don't know where to look. Sorry James, I didn't mean to hijack the thread...seems a few people are struggling with this!!

the wind definately sets mine off (300 with tilt and omni sensor added), sometimes heavy rain too or parking under a tree. apparently the omni sensoron the 600 needs adjusting with a computer and the 300 can be done manually. I can't find mine so it's really starting to p!ss me off. Perhaps it may be best to take it back to the fitter and see what they suggest?

Do you know whereabouts on the car the Omni sensor is fitted?

oh i see must've missed that then anyone get any pics???