dandan

Come on people, someone must have some idea about these

Try this matey, may put you in the ballpark. http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm

and no.2..... Is this used to increase or remove the 112mph speed limit

Hi Guys, Anyone seen either of these before 1. Gear shift light - connected to red LED for shift points I presume 2. Speed Meter/Limiter cut Can anyone suggest what exactly the speed meter is, where it would be connected to, exactly it is doing and the effects of removing it (other than reducing wires behind dash). Thanks guys PS anyone got a part no. for front undertray(s) beneath sump (for jdm car). Thanks.

My car is a 1996 GZ T.Turbo manual with a lsd. When I went up to Thor Dyno day, Pete revealed it actually had a 3.4 diff and not 3.8 as is "the rule" for jap supes. So i don't know if I'd worry too much about a different diff ratio to the "standard" JDM 3.8 Dan

Ash, I've decided it's more like a rock than a piece of gravel. Very annoying. Gonna have to get under and have a look at the weekend. Paul, AFAIK the skirts are sealed all round with only some smallish holes near the back, nevermind. Dan BPU + Rock Mod !

Hi Guys, Just wondered if anyone could help me out with the following list of parts. I'd like to know anyone's ideas on availability and pricing from new and how to go about getting hold of them (ie only through Toyota???). Some of the smaller stuff (s.motor, alternator etc is available thru dealer so any part no.'s would be great). -Complete 2JZGTE engine (non vvti) (excluding: Exh manifold and turbochargers) -V160/161 6 Speed gearbox -Flywheel and clutch assembly -Intake runners and plenum chamber -Throttle assembly -Differential housing and LSD -Starter motor -Solenoid -Alternator -Fuel rail and injectors (550cc minimum, Toyota or otherwise) -Coilpacks There are a few more items in this list but I don't want to put too many or people simply won't reply. Anyone know if complete engine assemblies can be sourced direct from Japan with/without turbos, manifold and ancillaries? Any input greatly appreciated. Thanks Dan

Drive - looks nice, pain for driving on! When you say they shouldn't be sealed, what do you mean exactly paul? I had a quick nose the other night with a torch and all i found was a couple of drain holes (or so i thought). Should there be a large opening somewhere then? Thanks

Hi Guys, Got a funny "rattling/clunk/rolling" kind of noise from the lower right rear to mid section, by/below door. All can put it down to is a stone in the sideskirt somewhere. It rolls around on heavy acceleration, braking and cornering. ANyone ever had this before? ps I have a stone drive and they get caught everywhere, including the tyres. Dan

A few detail sof the old record holder (600bhp 911 GT2) can be found at: http://www.8200rpm.com/forum/read.php?f=18&i=18&t=18

"7min 59sec, set by a Nissan Skyline GTR in 1995. But given that the Skyline set the time during its development stage and was free of the speed limiter that prevents UK versions from doing more than 156mph, we can no longer count it as the true production car record holder. Especially as it's far from clear how much turbo boost the GTR was running during the lap, or how much tweaking the rear-wheel steer system had undergone." With limiter: Nissan $kyline GTR: 8min 28.1 sec

Hey dude, I read that the Blitz Supra did it in 7min 49secs and yesterday read that the Radical (1500cc Hyabusa, something like 237bhp) did it in 7min 19secs. As far as I know that's the quickest to date, but don't quote me. Will look for a "useable" link in the meantime. Dan Editted: from http://www.philbennett.com/news/default.asp?id=56 23/09/2003 - Nurburgring Nordschleife lap record destroyed! Phil Bennett destroys the production car lap record of the Nordschleife with a time of 7mins 19sec. Radical Motorsport produced a special turbo version of the 1500cc SR3 which enabled Bennett to take a massive 14 seconds off the previous record held by a 650bhp Porsche GT2.

Thanks for these leads chaps, bit of a trickey one eh? I've passed on the info to my brother (who it was for) and hopefully he'll be able to make some progress. Thanks again CW Did you get my pm?

Come on guys, Help me out here, anyone got any advice????

Hi Steve how's it going mate? I've got the lower cat removed with an HKS pipe and top cat is still in. With the dsbc switched off I can make 0.7bar, no more. Then obviously got it set up for higher boost when needed. However, after going on dyno, it highlighted the fact that boost was tailing off (i think from 4500 onwards) when running higher pressures. The cat is the prime suspect and will be departing very very soon and replaced with cw pipe and restrictor. As far as I know the cats trap an awful lot of heat in the engine bay and also the extra backpressure means a fair bit of burnt gas is left in combustion chamber after the exhaust valve shuts. So this dilutes fresh cool air/fuel coming in. Can lead to detonation at higher boost and at best reduced power output. I don't think the restrictor traps anything like as much heat and once setup is a good option. Could size it for say 1.05bar and then use dsbc to up it to 1.2 when needed. Personally i believe that at high boost levels the cats should be omitted anyway for reliability reasons(heat/detonation etc). Dan

blimey, i had around 19 litres left then,seen as i topped up to full with 51litres. could've easily squeezed another 50 miles with enough left to be safe. i think my normal top up when running low is about 60litres

I think i could easily manage over 310, as i said this was only 3/4 tank and i had a long journey ahead and had to fill up. how big are the uk and jap tanks?

Hi guys, Can anyone point me in the direction of someone who can supply electric oil pumps. It needs to be able to flow around 600-1000ml/min at approx 40psi. This is for oil supply to a turbocharger on a custom motorbike engined project and as such the flowrate is relatively low. All the pumps I've seen have massive flowrates in comparison. I read somewher about using a fuel pump but I'm sure the higher viscosity of the oil could cause problems. Any pointers are greatly appreciated. Dan

What do you think chaps, with mixed driving (some motorway, round town, steady cruising, and of course some ramping it) I managed to achieve 25.6mpg, getting 290miles out of 3/4 of a tank (51litres). This was with Optimax, at 1.0bar, lower decat, Trial exhaust. I was happily surprised. Not bad???

Yeh i'd be happy if someone said the Thoe figure is actually equiv to flywheel figure as 331bhp at 1.05bar seemed good to me, never mind the fact that it was at the hubs! Great having a beast like the Supe isn't it, my mate has an STi5 and he's well jealous of the power i'm putting down

Hi Cliff, I know what you're saying about the figures being close but I just don't agree with the straight % loss idea. It seems daft to automatically assume that two cars of same age, condition and mileage could differ so much when just applying a straight %. I'm not saying it's miles off or anything but just not quite how i see it. I fully appreciate we/you are only talking about a rough idea of flywheel hp so it's not really all that important, just nice to "compare" to other cars. 1.11 260 hhp = 289bhp (29hp loss) 480 hhp = 533bhp (53hp loss) ...... 24hp extra loss 1.06 + 18 260 hhp = 294 bhp (34hp loss) 480 hhp = 527 bhp (47hp loss) ...... 13hp extra loss The second way (ie not straight %) reduces the extra losses automatically added using 1st method. Seems more realistic to me. Think how much heat 1hp is equivalent to. I think 1hp=0.875kW. We all know how much heat a 2kW fan/gas heater pushes out. Imagine and extra 20kW or so (of power losses) and then it's easy to appreciate how much power we're talking about being lost thru the drivetrain. I know it's all fairly pointless and not proven (need an engine dyno and thor dyno with a few engines of different specs to get a real indication) so no point argueing over it but still Anyway I'm happy enough: 332hhp and 347lbft is pleasing enough at 1.05bar with top cat still in !! Plenty more potential at 1.2 bar with full decat. (Any news CW??)

All IMHO, so please don't get funny if u don't agree I've been having a nose around and looking at people's graphs and car specs etc. For us to make reasonable/fair comparisons between each other (boost/exhaust/IC's/etc) we must stick to the hub figures as any "guesstimates" will only introduce error and uncertainty. However, for the sake of "pub boasting".... I don't think the straight percentage correction (eg add 15%) is a valid one. The idea that a high powered well built engine and drivetrain could lose a lot more power than an older car with much lower power does not seem logical. I think we should consider a certain hp loss figure across all mkiv's and also a percentage loss on top of that to account for what extra power is indeed lost as crank power increases (be it increased heat/noise/vibration etc) Having played around a bit i think this seems a fairly useful "correction": (Hub Horsepower x 1.06) + 18 = Flywheel power eg Hub Flywheel 280 315 300 336 330 368 350 389 380 421 400 442 430 474 450 495 You may or may not agree with this, and i'm sure some people may think the figures are too low. However, don't forget Bobbeh's car was only losing 30-35bhp from flywheel to hubs. (Assuming healthy flywheel power of 320-325). What do you reckon?

Hang on....... Sorry, Will post my comment later when i have it sorted

I found that nearly all of the cr@p on my lenses was on the outside, i used a specialist perspex polish from a plastics supplier to clean mine up, worked a treat. The rear light warning may be related to any foglight conversion carried out perhaps. I know the trl conversion can cause the brake bulb warning light to come on when fogs are on and you brake. Possibly same sort of problem....just a suggestion. Hope you get it all sorted

Hi Roy, Mine now sounds like something totally different to yours so i hope you don't mind if i post up a reply here re. CW 's comments? I hope you get yours sorted mate, perhaps put a stock airbox back on temporarily to rule out your air intake?? Chris, I'm definately definately not losing brake fluid and as far as i know i'm not losing any water at all from rad. Always at same level. I can't be sure about the smoke/vapour but it does seem more prominent than when the car starts normally. I must stress this only ever happens when the car has been left standing for a week or more. Hence, only happened about three times in total Do you think this could be related to the suspected core plug problem? I'll ring you tomorrow re. the decat and hopefully we could discuss this when i come up to yours. Thanks again Dan Roy: Don't worry. you will get it sorted one way or another.