dandan

If you want to push your NA-T performance nearer the limit (maintaining some margin of safety) then you really need something that will allow you to setup up the fuelling spot on and adjust your ignition timing. An EManage Ultimate (or even a Blue if you're not going stupid with injector size) would be perfect. I would also be ducting the front mount intercooler, heat shield on your intake, fitting a water injection system, consider a thermostat controlled oil cooler (to help remove heat from the combustion chamber and underside of the pistons as effectively as possible), make sure the coolant system is perfect.

Infra red you will.

Yep, sounds like you're doing pretty well so far. Are you sticking with just the MAP ecu (no ignition timing ajustment) or going for something else as well? I have an Aeromotive fpr for sale if you're interested. PM me if you want.

Ok thanks Wez, appreciate that (had I read the post properly I'd have seen the 1.4 bar at the top!) Keep us posted....

Wez would you mind telling us what fuel you were using, what boost you needed to make the 510 and what your ign timing is (at for example peak torque and power)?

Have you got a pair of 5's - if so I'll have. Also interested in 9.

The PHR turbo units have a welded on V band flange.

Yup, at the moment these seems to be the biggest step forward in turbo technology for a long while. I had a lot of fun with a Garrett VNT unit back in 2003 working on a 4 cyl 16v superbike engine design and development project!! Very very interesting to get into and spent months working on the whole setup (inconel manifold, custom grind cams, gears, dry sump, one off designed forged pistons to our spec, water injection, etc etc) Anyway back on track ... Lots of power, plenty of boost just off idle, pulled like a train, never broke...a real beauty. The powertrain never stayed with me personally but when I handed the project over we were having zero problems (temperature, control, reliability, mapping or otherwise). I did try to hunt down a setup for the Supra but concluded (at the time, given what was on the market) that I would need three of the little buggers to make any worthwhile power.

I'll take them please.

What sort of timescale are you "working" to regarding the cam change and remap? Would you mind telling us your other performance mods as well Wez?

Assuming the r.road parameters were the same and you has similar tyre pressure etc then this should be correct... I've just been comparing this to Terry's run and you have the edge up to about 4350rpm. Above that Terry's has the edge and maintains better power above 5600rpm. Overall, the area under your torque curves is very close. Certainly very impressive Wez, whether it boils down to turbo choice, cast manifold or quality mapping yours seems to outpull the vvti equppied dual ball bearing fast spooling T61/GT35R in the sub 4500rpm range. What downpipe and exhaust combo are you running, anything special breather wise? Can't wait to see the cam change effects!!!

An excellent choice in my opinion. Well done and keep us posted.

I'm flying to the US on Saturday. :(

I have a J spec one for sale.

Thanks guys, I must admit I didn't do a massive search on this so thank you for replying anyway. The only downside to Sky seems to be their upper ceiling for the agreed values - big of a bugger for someone like you Jake.

What about you ages fellas?

Guys, Who is insured with who? Are there any privately owned single turbo cars out there or is everyone fiddling insurance through a company ownership of some sort? I'd be interested to hear what you have told your insurers about the modifications, how old you are, what value the car's insured for, premiums etc Many thanks Dan

This is a stock part on the UK and US Supras that use low impedence injectors. The Jap SUpras have high impedence injectors. The Supra ecu is not capable of PWM injector control needed for low impedence injectors (negating the benefits of having them but that's another story) so resistors have to be used. The resistor pack performs that function. Anyone fitting larger UK injectors (or any other low impedence injectors) to a J spec must use a resistor pack.

It has two user programme cooldown periods or you can use the auto feature which calculates "the optimum" cooldown period for you.

Mine gets turned off with the same sub concious act that you use to put your seatbelt on when you first get in the car - rain, sleet, shine - whatever.

Just to reiterate the quality side of things.. Yep - I like Siemens injectors. I've run 750's in the past and been more than happy with spray patterns. (In fact another one of my non Supra cars is running the 750's right now)

Rail and hose provisionally sold. FPR still for sale.

Back for sale - buyer backed out.

I think the Thor figures are very reliable for comparison purposes. For a manual, adding about 10-11% to the hub figure puts you in a sensible ball park for flywheel power. My car made 376 at the hubs (good strong BPU manual). Baldy's car is definitely an exception - I believe you are running a few mods other than decat, exhaust and plugs aren't you Baldy? Electric fans, high boost, fmic.... The norm at Thor (hub power) for a BPU car seems to fall between 340 and 380. - Something like 375-420bhp at the flywheel. To be hitting that 420 at the flywheel (or 380+ at the hubs from Thor) you will need to have a large proportion of the following list: A good strong motor to start with, everything running tip top, excellent intercooling, turbos holding together at higher boost, good plugs. 1.2bar boost minimum with a full decat and good cat back exhaust, good fuel, good plugs, alternator and fan pulley/belt system in good condition, sensible induction system (stock being perfect), fuelling somewhere a little leaner than 11.5:1 (about the leanest you'd want to go on a daily driver), and a bit of luck. This is by no means an exclusive list of the necessaries for a good bpu car but hopefully shows that a decat is not the full story. Some people will get the higher figures but inevitably they'll have a fmic, some sort of fuelling adjustment in place and a few other little tweaks (some with cams, ign timing adjustment, water injection, headwork etc and still say it's a bpu car!)

Update: Piping size is 80mm. Tail pipe is actually closer to 6.0"