dandan

Blueangel, assuming you are weight training a few times a week and given your comments about inability to gain weight I think you should make sure you are getting at least 260grams of protein per day, maybe a bit more. Give it a month or so and see how things go. Make sure you're hitting big muscle groups as well with exercises like deadlift and squat and also your bench press and shoulder press. Good luck to everyone - life is easier and healthier when you're not carrying excess weight. Keep up the good work and drink plenty water.

Surely mounting the temperature sensor (for the dyno correction) just before the throttle body rather than at the air filter is a bad idea - hence why it's generally not done. If that's done then two identical cars except for their intercooler effiiciencies would be corrected to approx the same power/torque. The one with the crap intercooling would read a much higher temperature thus be subject to more correction for temperature. The car with adequate intercooling will have cooler charge temps and not be subject to the same amount of correction. In the real world the car with the better intercooling will make more torque (assuming all other factors are equal). As Dan said, no IAT sensor is needed for dyno correction - only the ambient air temperature - this allows some hope of dyno comparison on different days along with baro correction. The charge temp rise, relative to ambient, of the air that's now passing the throttle body is down to car design and installation (filter position and ducting, compressor efficiency, intercooler efficiency etc). The ECU will always want charge temps for its own correction (in the plenum or pre throttle plate) but that's different again to the simple dyno ambient temp adjustment. Does that make sense?

Don't get too worried about the polarity - you won't have a problem. Fire a pm over to me about the injector impedence if you want - I think I have a new Toyota resistor pack knocking around somewhere if that's of any use...

Generally there is no polarity requirement for an injector of this type so don't worry. Do them all the same to be consistent though. Do the 12v (or you could probably use a 9v battery) check with one of your pigtails to a battery to put your mind at rest. Some have a + and - but this is more for troubleshooting in OEM situations. Some rare injectors are "earthed" through the body casting and whichever pins shows continuity to the body will be the negative. These type of injectors are very rare though. Edit: Are these high or low impedence and if they're low do you have a resistor pack or PWM capability in your ecu to suit?

The only bit I am unsure of is whether the Nippon Denso male end is the correct one to fit the stock wiring. I do not have a stock injector to hand and don't have the connector shape committed to memory. Assuming that part is correct then they look to be what you need. I'm assuming you know it would be much cheaper and tidier if you were to solder in some EV1 females instead? Is it just that you don't want to cut the original wiring?

OK nice one - I'll pass that onto him and let you know what he says. (Any chance of giving me your postcode so we can see how far away you are?)

Is this your injector Tony?

Looking at the pics Tony posted and going by his description I think he wants a male-female adaptor lead to save any soldering/cutting guys. Male to plug onto his existing car wiring and female EV1 to fit the new injectors. I think he's asking if anyone knows a UK supplier for these adaptors and whether EV1 is correct for the Siemens he has. Tony - if you post up a pic of the injector showing the connector part clearly connector we can confirm it is the EV1 type (which any Siemens I have used in the past were anyway).

OK thanks Shaf. It's my brother who's interested so I'll show him this ad (he's torn between these and the GTS Volks). The only real worry is the offset being the correct type... Would it be ok to test fit and test drive with them on? (the car is lowered on a CW suspension kit so I am not sure about the offset/driveability/clearance issues)

Is it an original TRD3000 or a kitted and 6 speed converted auto aerotop? Certainly looks very nice..

Will a 25 offset in those sizes fit a Supe ok? Anyone running these sizes?

I'm tuned in eagerly awaiting photos/updates etc

Please pm me if it is not sold and I will make you a very good offer...

Yeah I'm keen to see pics too....

K+N panel here - no probs. May try the grease trick for interests sake next time I clean and oil the filter....

Is that for the TRD ?

Yep - nice one. Happy for ya..

I may have missed something here but why couldn't you reuse the stock bolts? Does the replacement core have different threads to the core it replaces?

Excellent, well done. Looking forward to some photos...

are these still for sale?

I do not know about the Supra fuel pump ecu in particular (hopefully someone will) but some ecu's will only give the fuel pump a short pulse of power at ign on. This may be 0.5-2 seconds long - ie the pump will not run continuously with the ign on. If you had a leak then this short pulse wouldn't pressurize the full system at all - are you definitely leak free (harder to tell with no pressue!). Have you tried flicking the ign on and off maybe 3 or 4 times with about 2 seconds between each try - then try starting it? Might help with the diagnosis? Or even get someone else to look at the voltmeter at the fuel pump when you first turn the key to ign on....

You will need a restrictor ring as well i you are removing both cats. 316 stainless will be fine.

Hey Jake, Did you get my last few pm's? Any chance of firing a reply across? Cheers Dan

Any luck on the bits I pm'd you about? You were going to speak to Gaz I think...