dandan

And do the two inners still work as normal rear lights and brake lights when the fog light switch isn't switched on?

Ok fellas, There's quite a few people on here who have or have had this cam combo. I am trying to find what would be the best starting point for the cam timing for a bpu type car. I know people are gong to post up and say they just fit them and go with stock settings. I cannot believe that is the optimum for best performance. I know someone is going to post up and say "adjusting them just moves the powerband......." but has anybody actually adjusted the timing on a dyno or rolling road and recorded any differences in the torque curve? Cheers Dan

Does this function identically to the TRL twin relay setup? My car was done by me a few years ago but my father is bugging me to do his - will this be easier and quicker then the trl method? With this kit do any extra wires need fitting if a switch already exists in the dash and that wire is running back to the light area? His car has a red bulb in one reversing lamp for a fog - that's what I'd be converting from... Any pics?

What a bitch - hope you find it's a blown hose and the smoke was from blocked breathers/pcv or something not too expensive. Good service from Envy - bit of a blessing if it is a shagged turbo. Gaz, who supplies your hybrid turbos?

Graham I have a quieter insert if you're interested in a swap?

André, Have you taken notice of what figures the afr gauge is displaying? You need to drive the car (in say 4th or 5th - 5th would be better if you don't mind the speed) and drive at full throttle from say 2500rpm to the redline. Whilst doing this someone needs to keep a very watchful eye on the gauge display. To be safe it shouldn't really go above 11.5 once you are making reasonable boost - somewhere over 3500rpm I suspect. If it goes over 12 let off the throttle immediately and go back to the mapper before things go badly wrong inside the engine. I suspect it will be the opposite - down around the 10 to 10.5 range in which case you may want to revisit your mapper. ps The idle will always go up and down with the ac on (it cycles as the ac clutch engages and disengages). What's the idle like with the ac off? Come back to us with some afr numbers....

What did you end up going with on the cam timing and did you get cam cards for the cams?

I'll take them Chris. Do you have a Paypal account or shall I send you a cheque. pm me if ya like.

Are they surplus to requirements or is there something amiss with them?

Sounds great Simon, I'll pm you later on....

Bump

....... Sorry - wrong thread.

Who's got some for sale, must be in perfect condition - cash waiting. Dan

Depending on cost I MAY be interested in two sets. I'd be more interested if the way to fix them to the light units was a bit more "proper" if that makes sense...

I'd be very suprised if it wasn't a spike... I think (but can't prove and am still thinking it through so could be wrong) that that spike would have occured as the wastegate didn't open soon enough. The second turbo normally won't receive any exhaust flow until around 4000rpm. So maybe the wastegate vsv doesn't allow boost to pass to the wastegate actuator until over 4000rpm - normally there'd be no need. That could potentially mean a big overboost situation regardless of having a RR in place. Just my thoughts and I'm willing to be proven wrong.

Good point Nic. The gain feature can make a very noticeable difference to mid range torque helping to spin the tubbies up quicker...

Any clearer Wez?

Excellent, thanks.

I think the uninstalled thickness on the GTE HG is 1.6mm. Not sure if the GE is the same.

It's not the wastegate spring that's the problem. It's the fact that the actual wastegate itself can only flow so much and on a J spec the "hole" (which is the open wastegate) is not big enough to bypass enough exhaust to keep the boost down.

Excellent job on the repair.... Free bump too!

What model car is the undertray from? Interested in skirts and spats as well.

You can't set your restrictor ring for 1.2bar and then magically drop that to 1.1 with a boost controller.

Full decat and restrictor ring to take you down to 1.1 or 1.2, depends how much of a gambling man you are. Hopefully this link will show you performance at 1.1bar with 1st cat still in place compared to full decat at 1.1 bar with restrictor ring: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showpost.php?p=1344590&postcount=16

If you had a massive tank of water pressurised to 50psi and connected a hose to it, water would squirt out at (near as dammit) 50psi. If you connected that hose to a tank of air which was held at 50psi then no water would flow into the air tank. The pressure in the runners acts against the fuel pressure coming through the injector. You'd need to exceed that intake pressure before any injection of fuel actually happened.