dandan

Jake, you don't have a stock bottom end do you?

Nevermind Daryl - pm me next time you're anywhere close. Anyone around this area in the next week or so?

But the T61 Terry has for sale and ask him if he can help you out with a downpipe...

You're a good man Rob - thanks mate..

Assuming you are going to be running at stock fuel pressure what advantage do you see to running an Aeromotive? To convert the rail I am using 2x M12x1.25 to -6 adaptors (one end of rail drilled and tapped) and then attaching my -6 lines to those.

OK guys I have a few other questions and would appreciate any input: I intend to run with the stock MAP sensor initially and then once I've routed the Greddy one into place I will switch to that (no mad rush to do that). I will initially be monitoring OEM water and air temp so knock connections are not needed right now. I have the AFR input harness coming from an AEM wideband setup. 1. Where can I get a USB cable to hook this up? I thought it came with one but obviously my memory deceived me. Is it a generic cable? 2. Are these jumer settings correct? 1. Open 2. Open 3. Open 4. Open 5. Open 6. Open 7. 1-2 8. 1-2 9. Open 10. 1-2 11. Open 12. Open 13. Open 14. Open 15. 1-2 16. Open 17. 1-2 18. Open 19. 1-2 20. 1-2 3. I'm initially running on OEM 440's so do I set the inj lag to 0.9 0.09 0.04 or 0.0 ? Everyone seems to have a different opinion. 4. Does the Greddy packaged software allow logging on a laptop for comparison later? If so can that data be exported to excel as comma separated values or similar? 5. Anyone know what the output on pin 62 (MAP) is when boost cut occurs - or what I should enter into the boost cut setup screen to act as a BCC? Many many thanks Dan

After some of my own dabbling and also probing around on here for others' opinions I will probably run: Bosch 044 in tank pump Stock fuel feed line Stock fuel filter -6 line from filter, split to feed either end of rail Modified dual feed rail 650cc High Imp SARD injectors Stock FPR Stock return line I did have some concerns with a Walbro pushing 600bhp through stock lines (not a -8 aftermarket feed and a big free flowing rail with top fed injectors) but am assured this is no issue for a 044 so I have pretty much chosen that pump (and that's all I have left to get hold of as well). My Walbro will come out and be donated to the BPU vvti

Are you keeping the stock con rods and rod bolts? I would change the bolts to ARP at the very least.

Good idea.

I like hub based "rolling roads" as well. I know there's alot of dispute on here about Thor's figures but you cannot fault the repeatability and relative accuracy. Eliminating tyre drag effects is a big step forward in my opinion and I'd rather do back to back comparisons on a hub dyno than a true rolling road. An engine dyno would be my first choice but the impracticalities of it do not suit the hobby nature in which I work on my car, doing bits and bobs here and there. Plus i'd always want to monitor and then more than likely tweak the mapping on the road for fine tuning..

I might be able to help with drive adaptors* and possibly mounts. * Would need to see a required length and a drawing or sketch of the dyno drive input (assuming the engine end just picks up on the bolt holes for the flywheel in the end of the crank)....

Thanks for helping out here fellas, not had chance to price up the fittings yet but doing it the same way as Ian (with a touch of Homer's "investment") certainly seems the cheapest option so I'm happy. Thanks

Interesting - I thought the OBX ones (with clocked turbo flange) looked very good but to be fair I have never had one in my hand so can't comment. Brazing...on an exhaust manifold...jesus!! Sorry for the OT but Michel - any chance you can pm me a price for a 100mm intercooler core with 3" pipe ends (as per your single conversions) please?

That's not strictly true Brian - you can pick up a fair bit in the mid range before you get to full boost with an elec boost controoler. The effect may not be as dramatic on J specs but is 100% noticeable with steel turbined turbos. If you're looking for every last bit of performance without upping the boost....

I like the OBX manifolds - for the price I think they are unbeatable. A Tial 44mm gate is more than enough for pretty much anyone on here running any power they like on pump fuel so I wouldn't let that put you off. I was going to post a link to this very same item

Perfect - suits my "no bling, no blow up" budget, or as some might say "chrome don't get you home".

The runners on the BL look to me like they stay separate until nearer the turbo than the HKS/PHR. To me - neither manifold looks particularly flow optimized - more a packaging compromise but that's life. My personal opinion is that the BL looks the free-er flowing of the two. Both have pretty cack wastegate routing but again - that's down to space and packaging and obviously works well enough What's wrong with your XS one?

OK great thanks guys - I'll have a proper look at the pics and a read later but I think I get the general idea. Ian - you just slipped a hose over the original barb on the water neck (and blocked the lower one), yes? Looks neat enough to me and no need for welding or drilling or tapping. Nice! I'll make a list of the fittings and post back up here if that's alright for discussion. I'll probably do what Ian did but use braided hose and hose finishers where visible. Homer - it's a BL manifold so hopefully Ian's routing should be spot on.

A BL67DBB is what I'm headed towards Homer so any input on required fittings would be great...you got any pics of yours to help?

I have the follwoing pics that I dug out to help - the first ones (Not Terry's old install) look more like -8 to me but I could be wrong... Also where do people get the top rad feed modded - anyone do it in situ or does everyone remove it before drilling/threading? What about the other end down by the pump, is that a drill/tap job or is there a threaded port already there? Thanks again

All, I am just weighing up whether to buy premade water feed lines or make them myself. Can anyone tell me what size (I'm thinking dash 6) and lengths I need and what the required fittings are please? Many thanks in advance Dan

Thank you.

Just to bump this and ask a question... The injector adaptor, can someone confirm it wires in between the ecu and the injector inputs on the EMU - like a pull up from the 12v line... Cheers Dan

Did you sort this Ernie - or still looking for input?

What are the compressor cover options and who has which one on here? Homer, Ian, SimonB?