dandan

What about a discount on the pieces required to convert a 2S (crudely mappable) system to a (3rd party ecu controlled) 2C system Chris?

OK no worries - it has gone off after a second dash removal for more wiring. Must've been a loose connection Thanks for looking.....

OK people, What would cause the airbag warning light to come on (when I say come on let's be a bit more accurate and say flickering. Not flashing on and off but flickering very very fast so it's almost a glimmer at not full brightness). I have had the dash apart (not the first time) but have not put ignition on with anything disconnected (although according to Ian C this isn't an issue with facelifts anyway). Got the dash apart again to have a look but there's nothing amiss that I can see. The onlu thing different is my clock is now not connected - it has been removed, that is the only difference. Any thoughts?

Great thanks fellas, how soon could you get one posted and what sort of £££ are you after?

Guys, I need the inner ball part of one of our circular dash air vents as I'm trying to install an extra Defi gauge and the gauge is way too small for the hole in the dash. After doing some searching it would appear I need to put the gauge in the air vent ball itself after cutting it apart...so anyway - I want a spare to do it to. Please let me know if you have one... Cheers Dan

Yep - be patient and wait.

Alex had an EManage Ultimate installed on his T61 vvti - I am sure you enjoy the gains from the same on your car. I have now realized how desperately rich the vvti cars run and it really does eat away at performance - the EMU could sort that and for a lot less ££ than a Motec install. Your garage says nothing about decats - are you fully decatted? Once you've got the following on stock based turbos there's not much furthr to go: Decats and exhaust (boosting to 1.2bar with restrictor ring and a boost controller to improve midrange) Decent intercooling (Chris Wilson or a fully ducted front mount) Fuelling adjustment (EMU, Motec etc) Plugs (IK24 or similar) Water/alcohol injection Cams (probably a 264 exhaust in your case - obviously leave intake stock) Things start getting expensive after this stage and you really need to think about goals.... Edit: I would move that bloody number plate and also duct the intercooler - doesn't look to clever as it is...

Oh yeah they're bloody MAF aren't they....shame.

Probably something like 0-220kpa (absolute) or 1bar vac to 1.2bar boost with a load point every 10kPa or 1.45psi. I don't recall what the stock map sensor reads to so am half guessing....

I know this is slightly off topic but where exactly is/are knight racer now, I am going there tomorrow morning. Is everything still ok with those guys?

OK fair enough. If SF search was working I'd had a nose around but never mind.

After looking at both Alex I might be inclined to rate the BL above the HKS. Any reason why you put them the other way around?

I might need one of those as well then

Cool - good man.

Ian - thank you. Great post my friend. My fields harness is ready for another weekend of installing and fiddling now! Thanks Dan

Cool - keep us posted.

What won't make a differnce TR? All I wanted to know ref. that MAP voltage was what to input in the boost cut threshold table so the EMU would be my boost cut controller as I won't have one after I sinstall the EMU. 4.4V is it then?

OK fair enough - seems to be holding together alright though doesn't it? I guess TJ did a better job than most people would give them credit for. If you've got HKS pistons though then the bottom end isn't stock.

If it were me and I was doing a semi budget rebuild then in addition to bearings shells etc etc which no doubt your guy will be checking I would want to include ARP rod bolts for definite and then if I was feeling a bit flusher I'd go for a set of CP Pistons in 86.5mm and also a set of Carillo rods. If you were going "all out" then I may change that piston choice to a Cosworth/JUN and go for Pauter rods (heavy but damn near unbreakable). I really would do the rod bolts though, the stock rods themselves are relatively strong and if you're tuning is good they should be ok up to small/med single power levels. If you're running higher boost or nitrous then the forged piston (CP/JUN/etc) should yield some extra ponies due to reduced piston distortion/blow-by. Just my 2p worth

Brian - that would be the case if i was fiddling with that incoming airflow signal. I don't intend to map it like that at all. I will be adding and subtracting duty cycle directly without ever touching the airflow signal. So looks like I'll put in 4.35v or something like that for the boost cut threshold. Did you manage to double check those jumpers Rob?

bump...

It isn't unless it is off a vvti.

Perrrfect...cheers fellas, much appreciated.

Aha good man thank you, cigarette lighter sounds like a good idea. One slight problem with that wire routing is I have a passenger airbag so messing around in the "upper glovebox" area on my car is a no-no. I'll take a look (perhaps I can get through by removing the lower glovebox itself?) but it doesn't sound toooo promising. Any other ideas people...

OK chaps and chapesses, I'm going to install by AEM wideband at the weekend (hopefully) and just had a few simple questions. 1. I intend to swap out the clock for the AEM display. Is the clock easy to remove? I've had the dash out several times but never looked at the clock with any interest (obviously ). 2. I believe the clock has ign 12V, 12V when lights are on and ground connections. Can I just use the 12v ign feed, anyone know what the wiring and/or relevant fuse is rated to? 3. Where do people break out through the body for the sensor wiring? Mine is going in the first decat pipe by the way. I intend to ground the AEM wideband system at the same point as my EManage Ultimate so help with calibration and offset issues from earth loops. Cheers Dan