dandan

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=119591

Thank you Nic. Good man.

Did you dial in the staggered setup exactly as per Chris' (poggie on SF) recommendation? From speaking to Chris the timing is uber important in this setup or there are substantial losses to be made

As per title......

That was my brother in my dad's car, as my brother's car is at Knight Racer, he's borrowing the old man's machine!!

OK guys, These questions are aimed at all of you who have aftermarket cams and adj cam gears fitted... (basically I am wondering what sort of cam timing on what cams, let's say HKS 256I/264E for example on a single or maybe even BPU, has given an optimum torque curve). Have any of you actually timed the cams in 100% by using a dial gauge to find TDC and then using a cam wheel to set the cam exactly as recommended. Further to that has anyone had their motor on a dyno or rolling road and adjusted cam timing to get their optimum torque curve from that initial setup? It seems to me a lot of people fit the cams and leave the cam gears at zero and call this - "zero". Similar to a lot of the young guys on SF do when they fit cams, they then start saying..."+1 on the intake and -2 on the exhaust did xyz" then someone else goes off and does the same. Well given the manufacturing tolerances on the cams, crank, gears, belt etc these two motors probably won't be timed the same at all and yet people seem to think they are. So who has dialled their cams in properly to the HKS/JUN/BC timing sheet and have you found any benefit in advancing or retarding from there on your particular setup? Cheers Dan

Anyone have any input as to which is the better choice?

Or under the plastic cover? I had to trim my cover to get the fields harness under!

Well to be fair I do have a original TRD vented and rain shielded bonnet too so maybe that's helping. fyi - engine bay temp near brake servo area hasn't gone above 50*C in the last week even after stationary heatsoak and town driving. I've never had issues with overheated alternators and didn't know anybody had on our cars - that's a new one on me...

John.. If I said to you my coolant temps were fine, my air con is lovely and cold on a hot day, my air intake temps at the plenum were lower than with the sidemount and my pressure drop from compressor outlets to plenum was no worse how would you argue against the front mount? And I know you're going to mention engine bay heat, non airbox intakes etc but if the intercooler is dropping that charge temp to lower than the sidemount/sealed airbox combo by the time it's reached the plenum then what is the problem in your eyes?

And restrictor ring...?

Have you joined the world of the working man now Jake?

My fully ducted front mount gave definite "seat of the pants" gains over my sidemount which was in pretty decent shape. I have sidemount data and just need to gather the same data for the front mount and I'll know where I stand. A trip back to the RR wouldn't be a bad idea but it's not gonna happen...

So did that make Jake Toyota's Chief Technical Engineer or something!

I'm sure it does but just wanted to clarify which turbo Jamie is talking about. The 4088 and 4088R are different turbos - it's not just the bearing section that's different.

If it were my car I'd do the following..... First off: Get rid of the first cat, fit a restrictor ring, duct the intercooler and move the numberplate. Then: Consider water/meth injection and look at ecu options be that EMU, Motec or Autronic. Think about ecu choice carefully and be honest with yourself - are you looking to extract more power and stay with stock turbos? If so then a full standalone may be a little OTT. However I definitely would not get an airflow signal fudger like the EManage Blue - I would consider the EManage Ultimate as a minimum requirement as injector duty cycle can be increased/decreased without touching the airflow signal (which is good ) Then: Consider exhaust cam change to a 264. If you are gonna start pissing around with cams, ecu, water injection then having a boost gauge, an exhaust gas temperature gauge (in the manifold) and a wideband are a good idea.

Just a regular 4088 Jamie - not the 4088R?

Or buying an already modified car and getting it tweaked and mapped by good mechanics/traders/mappers to your desired spec.

Does anyone have a spare Supra coil? I have a work colleague who may be able to help sourcing alternatives for substitution.......

A very sad state of affairs. Over the past 4 years I've had little niggly problems with a lot of the traders on here at some point (late deliveries, faulty part, missing parts, 2nd hand parts, wrong parts, constant lies etc). However I have never voiced anything on the forum as the traders responsible ultimately did sort any problems as one would expect so there was no need. Good traders and good business sense. If I had bad bad work done on the car with no resolution I would feel obliged to tell people here if things never got sorted out properly. I certainly wouldn't hide away for fear of abuse from other members.

Did Jamie work for turbofit or was/is he just a customer? (If you read this Jamie I'm not meaning to talk about you behind your back - do/did you work for turbofit or were you just their best customer? )

It'll be down to the lack of low rpm torque and relative slow spool, and the fact that you're usually hitting big power at higer road speeds when tyre speeds are more capable at handling that power. (in comparison to these guys' smaller turbos which make relatively big torque even down in 2nd gear where yours just won't).

Doesn't look like one to me...

Not quite but the figure will be close

Where is your jet Wez?