dandan

Gordon - Paypal'd you the money for the pads yesterday with address in Paypal transaction. Did you get it ok?

These are the letters/numbers moulded around the face...... >ACM

I'd love to buy this off you but unless you want a gunmetal 6 speed bpu+ as your runaround I'm afraid it's still out of my reach! Nice car...great colour

Shit I mis-read your first post - that's the Toyota number!!!! Leave it with me and I'll tell you tomorrow.....sorry

90311-40020

I have some but they are at my brothers. I will try to get over there today and get the number for you...

How's it going?

I like the benefits (and the noise ) but I wouldn't be able to live with the maintenance costs - preventative or otherwise ...especially on a road car....

True anti-lag would upon activation: 1. Open up a throttle bypass (you can use a Ford idle bypass valve for example) to get more air into the plenum when the throttle is shut. 2. Inject a corresponding amount of fuel 3. Delay the igntion timing to the point where semi combusted charge makes it's way past the exhaust valve...using the combustion process to spin the (delicate little pathetic) turbine wheel on the (skinny little slender) shaft which in turns spins the compressor wheel generating boost. The downside is your cast iron and cast aluminium combustion chamber is no longer where combustion takes place - your (relatively weak, thin walled, fatigue and temperature cycle sensitive) manifold is left to bear the brunt of this bastardized combustion.

Thanks for the input fellas. I guess I should have been a bit more specific....I'm working on a non automotive clutch design and just want to throw a few ideas around for materials, lining pressures, friction coefficients etc - nothing particularly application based - more the nitty gritty of actual clutch design Ady - I can do the 3D modelling myself but thank you for the offer - I appreciate it.

Anyone?

The trouble is that 1 bar of boost and quick spool is because your combustion process is no longer solely contained in the combustion chamber......

AAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah my eyes....what a fool i was!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK that's a different story Tony. If a batch of let's say 1000 regulators carry 7psi tolerance between them then no problem (for the aftermarket mapper). If the tolerance during service on one individual regulator is 7psi then that is bad news.

7psi tolerance on a stock fpr!!!!!!!! That sounds terrible - on 3bar differential fuel pressure that equates to +/-8% on your fuelling.........kaboom! Was this on a new regulator Tony or a "suspect" one? Was this variance temp related or just random fluctuations over a period of time? Also when I have had injector tested in the past I have always set the test pressure

Toffee spring?

Antilag won't do any favours as far as debris generation either. If there's any weld spatter and shitty welding in those manifolds then expect some potential debris or at least be aware of potential manifold damage from antilag use.

I was working my way down through the posts and was going to post exactly this - beat me to it! Who the hell suggested a DBB turbo could outlast a journal/SBB turbo under antilag and 2 step conditions??

Love it!

Does it change from a cold start if you leave the car to warm up with bonnet closed? or Does it change after a hard run (hot) when left to cool down idling with the bonnet open?

I must admit - I always regarded the Aeromotive units as reliable and well proven and have used them before with no issues at all. It would be the first one I have heard of failing but from the symptoms described so far it seems to be a potential culprit to me.

For it to be the pump or filter then it would need to have been blocked/faulty during the mapping/setup and whole period of healthy running - and the fpr setup to give 25psi under a “low” fuel flow rate. So the fault then temporarily rectifies itself and the AFR's go rich as the flow rate bumps way up closer to a normal walbro flow - and some how the FPR cannot maintain pressure control under this increased flowrate (????).......I find all this a lot harder to believe than just a faulty fpr (or related fault - vacuum/pressure feed etc). If I had to bet....... I'd be betting on the FPR (or something related to its installation).

It will be the regulator - nothing else. Where is it - is it worse when hot? Does it always read the same (let's say) 25psi from a cold start?

What sort of figures did the car make Rich and what rolling road? I may well have missed old threads where you posted/discussed this - sorry if that's the case.

I've got a few questions, hope you don't mind.... Do you have any dyno print outs? Do you have the compressor housing pressure tapping fitting? Do you have the wastgate pressure feed line (from compressor housing)? Have you got the clamps for the intercooler piping and if so are they jubilees or Mikalors? What are you upgrading to, and why not just change the tubby? Are you going for a V band T51-R or T6 manifold/turbo or something equally serious? How did the car drive with this kit on? What sort of rpm/boost figures were typical in say 4th gear on a flat road? 1.2bar by 4000rpm?