dandan

The hybrids are potentially a huge problem on those injectors at stock fuel pressure. The idea being that they shift more air for a given boost pressure.....so....you need more fuel to go with that. I'd forget comparing to stock turbos. Plus if the head has been gas flowed then the same argument stands, if the headjob was any good, you should be flowing a little more air for a given boost pressure. You need more fuel or at least an idea of if you are not supplying enough. Do you have an AFR gauge?

http://www.suprasport.nl/Supra_MK_IV/Turbocharger/SSE_cast_manifold.html ?

Sod that!

My new ones turn freely after simply jacking the car up and removing the wheel...once you have "unlocked them" from each other. Do yours have the small helper springs as well Homer?

Well greased would be the key to longer life. In my case the corrosion was internal between the aluminium and steel, it wasn't from general corrosion from any wet weather or salt. That certainly would not help though Mine are Tein HA's by the way.

I stripped the lot and took the springs off altogether as I knew I was going to be replacing the ali rings....the aluminimum rings might as well have been welded on for all the chance I had of budging them! 4" grinder and a cold chisel did the trick, then wire brushing (lots of) and then lots of copper grease and the newbies flew on a treat.

It'd be nice to know how Jamie's puts power down on "normal" tyres.....he may have excessive midrange for grip of say Eagle F1's...? In that case, this more progressive curve could well prove to be the faster setup on the road.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=159864&highlight=power+steering

The chances are they'll be shagged if they've been on there any real length of time. Mine looked ok but were corroded on the thread interface - I guess there's some galvanic corrosion between the steel and the aluminium. One of mine had a hairline crack that ran axially like the sort you'd see on a pressure vessel or a split sausage under the grill! In my case the crack was a good indicator of internal pressue ............corrosion products building up in thread and "blowing" the spring seat open due to the extra material. I bought four new spring seats and four new locking rings from Paul Whiffin and a new set of C spanners and replaced the whole lot as I didn't want to take any chances. You're welcome to the spanners but I wouldn't bet my house on being able to budge the rings - depends how old they are...If I remember rightly they're not expensive.

Doh! Serves me right for skim reading a post after being rudely awaken by my car alarm...struggling to get back to sleep...and then deciding to browse the forum for something monotonous to help me drift off again! Sorry guys - obviously missed that key point!

Nope

Dump valve leaking? If it's a stock one then even that can make a fair bit of noise when the airbox has been swapped out for something else....

A pic would be great Homer please....

Yes please young man! Would you by any chance move on from "good" to say it is in great or excellent condition??

9310?

Or DBB T61

Arias: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-SUPRA-2JZ-ARIAS-PISTONS-RINGS-PINS-87-mm_W0QQitemZ160162310514QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item160162310514&_trkparms=72%3A984%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 I have zero experience with Arias pistons though I'm afraid.

Excellent rods - strong as hell. I'm in a bit of indecision about my car at the moment - if I knew I was keeping it then these would be going in for sure. Free bump...

Stick with the stock fuel lines and regulator...if you can get "drop in" injectors, then stick with the stock rail as well.

However, if you push more and more volume through it you may inadvertantly increase the fuel pressure. Let's say you have three Walbros pushing 600l/min through it at idle then I do not know if the flowpath inside the FPR can flow that much without significant back pressure increase.....not sure if anyone's ever done the test. In theory the same is true for the fuel lines themselves.

Halfords Professional spanners work good for me. Have you tried a lump hammer to impart some shock into the thread via the spanner...shock and vibration will undo threads you'd never believe could come loose.

Hmmmm, is it a very very slight miss once every second or so? I have a friend with an auto vvti who had something like this and it seemed to go away ig the revs were over 1500 or the aircon was on. No changes with sparkplugs but don't think he tried coilpacks.

Got the pic Phil - thanks. I'll take it I may have the boot release from you (assuming this is the actul latch piece that holds/releases the boot). My old man might well want it for his vvti as their release catches are crap. How much do you want for it and is it ok?

What about crank sensor and/or its connector? Do you have access to an oscilloscope?

You tit I'm gonna have to go speak to Nic now about that T04Z turbo kit now!!