dandan

Nice car

What's the dink?

Can anyone confirm if vvti driveshafts will fit a non vvti diff? Also does it make any difference if parts are manual/auto. Cheers Dan

And that could exactly what he (and a lot of other Supra owners) would not want.

Are they held on with studs and nuts or is it some sort of bolt arrangement?

Guys, I am planning to make some of this in a regular stainless, inconel or titanium but need one to measure up first. Anyone got one.................? Cheers Dan

£50? Edit: Sorry...couldn't resist.

I have "the rarer" facelift non vvti

Contact Paul Whiffin at Whifbitz for new adjusters..

How's this comin along now? All sorted?

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Well done....enjoy.

I can get some 718 easily enough....those puppies will never corrode then! We need a new piston to copy.....anyone?

Wow - I didn't realise that £200 was for the pistons.....if someone can get me a brand new one I'll get some made is stainless!

Is a simple rebuild kit available from Toyota for UK specs with pistons and seals?

I'd love to see a project thread as long as there are loads of pics!! People will be very interested, some will be jealous, some may questions your motives for spending so much, some will feel they have to have a little dig at you....that's just the way it is. Keep up the spending and hard work I say and gives us lots of photos.......

Oh dear - sorry to hear that. If they give you a lot of shit and you end up cutting your losses I would go to Turbo Technics for the rebuild/replacements (unless of course you go with an OEM or single setup).

Running on a "regular" rolling road is subject to all sorts of external influences for the power @wheels figure. Wheel size will have an effect (think of it as gearing). Whether you'd ever notice/record the effect with all the other inconsistencies is very arguable especially given the max difference in rolling radius you can actually achieve in practice on your Supra with those big brakes. Tyre pressure will have an effect, tyre grip will have an effect etc etc. Wheel weight...I guess the greater the wheel weight, the greater the load you are "putting on the engine" which (especially on turbo cars) could have a positive effect on making the bottom end torque a little better. Almost. This was many many years ago on small capacity race prepped NA engines.....but rather than wheel size I was experimenting with final drive ratios. I've never really given the wheel weight question any thought to be honest. Everybody knocks Thor as their numbers are high but if you want back to back consistency between visits then an engine dyno would be first choice, a hub dyno (like Thor) would be second, then after that you're into "rolling roads" and my first choice there might well be a Mustang Dyno and then a Dyno Dynamics setup like SRR.

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Red when new....

Really?!?

Nice one. So would the old pump have been ok?

It would be nice to know which company's hybrids are failing but I guess people like Envy etc won't want to dish that sort of info out.

Reach down inside the resevoir with a flat blade screw driver and scrape it across the mesh/filter gently. Pull it up carefully and see if there's much cack on it....as Chris said the filter (which is not removable) could be blocked. Edit: If it is then a new resevoir would be a sensible purchase.

I would say that 550 injectors will be capable of enough fuelling for pretty much any stock turbo based hybrid setup. You won't need to change the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel rail or any of the lines but you will need a resistor pack and something like and EManage or similar to get the fuelling correct once you fit the larger injectors.