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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Bizzyfingers

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Everything posted by Bizzyfingers

  1. Rear is slightly different the way the anti roll bars mount up but can be modified to fit. I'm pretty certain people use the supra subs on the soarers
  2. As per title. Front and rear subframes for sale. Comes complete with diff (3), arms, bushes, wishbones, anti roll bars, drive shafts, 1 rear caliper, 2 caliper carriers, 2 brake discs, steering rack, front suspension, hubs etc. £300ono to be collected from Gateshead/felling. Need them gone.
  3. I've been shipped my calipers apparently, manifold is gone. Not sure on the strut brace.
  4. X2 for tardis. Works wonder on tar too...
  5. As title described my bolts are stuck in the control arms in the rear subframe which I am refurbishing. Any tips on how to get them out without cutting the control arm itself?
  6. I know exactly what you mean. It is very counter productive isn't it? If I didn't have to drive to track days I would not even consider it. I might just buy ear plugs or noise cancelling headphones
  7. Ive not pulled it out as yet so I didn't even know how much it weighs. It will be getting pulled soon but I might sound deaden the car. The reason being is its going to be used on the street too. I am really unsure about this though and I may not bother, Ill just paint the inside and cage it.
  8. Here is the engine now, it's not perfect and a little bit of a knock but much better
  9. Here is the engine knock/rattle when it first started up
  10. I'm going to be removing anything not necessary from the car. I'm not sure I am removing the dash and door cards but I will be doing something with them, maybe flocking them. The seats will be lightweight and the harness adapted to only do what's necessary. I may cage the car up but that's all down to budget and will be the last thing to do after manual conversion.
  11. Now the most important part. I've decided that since the interior is less than mint, the seats are not original, the rear seats are split and showing foam, the carpet needs redying, the shell is less than ideal for a show car... I'm going to build a race car with it. Not to everyone's taste but with that don't try and convert me. I'm set in stone. I've always been into motorsport for the side lines watching people blast round croft etc and not had the machine to play... Well...
  12. The engine had not ran for 8 years and the condition was unknown, after fitting a new fuel pump and wired the diagnostic to kick the pump into life (fuel pump Ecu was broken) the car fired into life with a lovely top end knock (sounds like shims rattling about but I checked tolerance and they are fine). After an oil change, a flush, another oil fill and it's gone but comes back intermittently. A head rebuild is on the cards plus a new set of belts, a water pump etc.
  13. Sorry for the lack of updates but as I've started a new job I've been a little busy. Here's what's happening... I was all set for Na-t but after sourcing a soarer with a 1jz still in tact after 8 years in a breakers yard I decided to go down this route.
  14. I'm going to adjust the shims on my 1j. Where can I buy a box of shims?
  15. The belt was done just before the car was scrapped. The belt is in good condition (still getting changed before the conversion) there is no cracks, no missing teeth and generally good nick.
  16. Ahh thanks I'll give that a go. Cheers Chris.
  17. Took the belt off all together mate. Still same noise
  18. BTW it was the fuel pump. Pulled it, put 12v over it and nothing.
  19. I've got the car to fire, had to use the jumper on the diagnostic pins (fuel pump Ecu goosed). My trouble now is after finally getting it to run the engine has an intermittent knock/rattle. It's not repetitive, sounds like something floating around in the rocker covers, took them off and nothing seems obviously wrong
  20. Are you sure Marc? I don't want you going out of your way mate.
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