Dave Carroll

Hi guys, I am currently moving job and house, and after completing my big single build, its time to get a bit of cash back. Various parts available and as I trawl through the garage will post more later, but to start off: PRICE DROPPED: 2JZ GTE MT ecu. Worked perfectly before I changed to syvecs. £75 HKS evc 6 boost controller,with the easy writer. Around £600 new and I used it for mahbe a year and a half with no issues. £SOLD Old school HKS PFC F Con which was fitted into my car since its Japan days for BPU. No idea on this one... lets say.. £SOLD Whifbitz decat pipe. Brand new and never fitted as already had my Blitz Nur Spec pipe. £SOLD PRICE DROPPED: Fuel pump hanger with what I believe is a walbro 255 pump from my bpu days. Fitted before I owned the car so not sure on history but worked fine before I removed it. £50 Standard fuel tank cover (which the spare wheel clamps into) £15 Generic unknown brand FPR with lines and adapter for standard fuel rail. Used while I was BPU and worked fine. £40 NEW: standard j spec fuel rail with standard j spec injectors. £50 Not sure if prices are fair or not, happy to alter if they seem way off! PM me for more pics or details Cheers Dave

I always use the NRG short hubs and their quick releases. I think the hub is around 20mm or so deep. Their quick releases are possibly around 50mm for the slimmer models. My momo wheel is shallow dish, with the short hub and a gen3 quick release and sits roughly where the stock wheel did.

As far as UK brakes go, mine are very hard as far as feel goes. And this is with standard rubber lines. They are hard regardless of which pads I have in (my CW race endurance pads or endless street/track pads). The biggest difference I felt was when I switched the fluid to Castrol React SRF. Must be changed once per year and is pricey but best fluid I have ever come across.

PM'd

As above, finish isnt important, just need one suitable to be fitted! Yep.... found out mine had cracked at the stud fixings when I was fault finding my new setup. Whats out there ☺

Hi guys, Wondering if there is anyone who can help me out. Essentially, my car is going in for mapping next Thursday, but want to get the car running on a base map beforehand to ensure everything works as it should. I bought the plug and play kit from Whifbitz, but there is no base map installed. Spoken to my mapper who agreed to make a base map but its taking longer than I would like. Anyone have a map file they could email me? Build spec: Borg warner sxe369 twin scroll Whiftbitz manifold Straight through blitz nur spec r V160 1000cc asnu injectors Twin 450lph walbro pumps and lines Stock block 264 in/out cams Syvecs s6gp Oil pressure sensor Fuel pressure sensor Flex fuel sensor Wideband lambda 3 port boost solenoid Any thing someone has that will just let me get it idling and revving to check for leaks etc is perfect. Cheers David

I have the same mats but from rhdjapan. I have had them around a year now and done maybe 3 or 4k miles. The drivers mat shows a bit of an indentation under where my heels rest but other than that, when cleaned up, look perfect. Have to admit I noticed one or two stray threads in a couple places but nothing like this..

Could be be an interesting one 7 days after mapping my car... date noted!

If only I wasnt in Japan right now! On the off chance you are stilling looking to sell these at the start of April when I get back home, let me know!

If you don't go crazy cutting too much of the profile around the tower away, I would be very surprised if you compromised the rigidity of the strut towers doing this. At the same time I would be surprised if you got a lot of structural benefit from the spaceframe front, however if done correctly you could gain some rigidity... I would say don't get too eager cutting weight around the strut towers and you shouldnt suffer much in the way of structural rigidity.

In that case I highly recommend! Its only when really pushing for times that I feel they fall over for me. And even then it could be my driving style!

Will be interesting to see how you find these. Ive been running these for a while now - road and track. Road - excellent. Even in the wet they breakaway nice and progressive. Personally i like them on the road. Track - not a big fan. Used in the damp recently and had good grip but fairly snappy. In the dry they are very good if you can get heat into them. I find them quite temperature sensitive. My Federal 595 rsr tyres were a better sprint tyre in my opinion. They were absolutely epic on a friend's evo, which is why i went for them on the Supra, but for my driving style i find them too inconsistent on track for a heavy car like the Supra. I'd go for proper semi slicks of dedicated track use but thats for me personally. You might love them!

Hi All, Looking everywhere for a genuine gReddy multi d/a gauge (oil pressure analogue with 2 temp digital readouts type). Looking to add as a tidy oil pressure / egt / oil temperature readout and will match my existing gReddy boost gauge. Anyone got a setup or know where I could get one? Cheers

Cheers Keron, PM sent

Hi Keron, i will take the APR carbon fibre intercooler cover. Interested in the Tein rear strut brace too if you can send me some pics.

Hey buddy, it wasnt, i wasnt able to get down there this morning unfortunately. With the rain yesterday the post track check had to happen this morning Hope it was a good meet!

I may pop along provided the Supra survives its day at the track tomorrow!

Are the rear outer CV joints going with the hubs mate? In desperate need of the rear left outer joint right now... (Just to double check the big diff means it is B03B right?) Cheers Dave

Do you mean entirely car things or general Japan things? Its quite uncommon for street drifting at daikoku futo these days.. remember there is a police station actually in the parking area. If you want to find street drifting, hakone route 1, midnight, saturday will be your best friend

Fluid was changed July last year. There was no V160 fluid available at the time down in enfield so we went for ATF (cant remember dexron 2 or 3 now). Wasnt anything special though (no royal purple or anything) Been running fine on it ever since.

Hi Guys, I have run into a bit of a strange phenomenon with my gear changes over the last few days. Its a gear change issue i have never come across and seems strange enough it could be a V160 unique trait so who else better to ask! I appear to get a 'soft' gear change where the stick goes into position but doesn't seem to actually select the gear on: -hard gearchanges, mostly 1st to 2nd, sometimes 3rd to 4th -changing fast as possible (os giken r4c clutch fitted in recent months) -only happens when i change gear close to the redline -I tried adjusting the clutch pedal, no change in the box behaviour Changes in this area of the car from stock: -solid gear linkage bushes -TRD gear box mount -OS Giken R4C (quad plate) clutch with lightened flywheel It has had all of these for the past year except the clutch which went in in january this year. At slower gear changes or lower rpm, i get the usual clunk with good tactile feedback the gear is in. None of the usual dead syncro signs are there so it has me more than a littlw confused. With a day at the track this coming Monday its not good timing! Any ideas?

As a further update, these are fairly confusing to install: -remove clock spring -mount a diy copper contact to the vehicle in there (this will contact the copper ring on the rear of the short hub) -wire the diy copper contact so that it completes the circuit for the horn when horn button pressed -mount short hub taking care to locate the pegs on the column correctly so your auto cancel for indicators still work correctly Then obviously mount your wheel etc as normal. This is all assuming you have no airbag to worry about. I would upload pics of when i did mine but i recently deleted the photos of the install... sorry.