ianhid

I'll check work dates and see if I can pop along.

There's a Lexus part that fits from memory. Might be easier to get hold of? https://www.supraforums.com/threads/inexpensive-oem-horn-upgrade.613919/

As above, I'm looking for a set of TTE Grandstand wheels with their diamond cut finish. Not after anything that's been refurbished to a non-cut finish as they're really finicky to re-cut if the wheel has warped or been straightened after damage.

Sweet, much nicer than the janky old shite that is VBB.

I've got to skip this one, doing a road trip down to Italy later in the year and only really have time available for one.

Check the EFI water temp sensor plug as well as the O2 sensor. Mine was running eyewateringly rich because the temp sensor plug had turned to dust and wasn't making contact. Didn't throw a dash error, the stock ECU just ran a safe default. Swapping the connector over took 15 mins or so and got me from 14mpg to 25ish. I kept the pins, just switched over the plastic plug shell. Sensor is on the front of the block just below a separate connector that goes to the dash display for water temp. No idea why it doesn't use the ECU data...

If it was a Sunday morning or evening it's possible that was me. I'm through that section a fair bit and the supra is my daily.

For anyone else trying this, buy an impact screwdriver. PH2 and a little tappy tap tap will pop those screws easily without completely chowdering them. Only costs about £15 for a half decent one too.

Just booked in.

Might be something to see his GP about if it's proving embarrassing, perhaps they can prescribe him something?

For anyone else finding this, the 9006J variant bulb is narrower than the normal 9006 and you can't really get them in the UK, a normal 9006 will not fit. Use a 9005 instead, you'll have to trim a small plastic tab out of the inside of the connector plug to get them to fit. As a slight bonus, 9005's are more powerful.

If it comes out around the same power as the 240i (340PS) then that'll be ok for most UK driving. The biggest issue I think will be whether the new one has a better or worse power to weight than the MkIV, you don't really want to get your arse handed to you by a 25 year old stock jap import...

If that's the secondary cat, I'm interested. Will drop a PM.

They're non-interference (apart from VVTi N/A), so it doesn't really matter too much. I did mine on purchase, also did the waterpump and crank damper while they were in there as it's a lot of the same labour costs.

I'm going to try and get there, may or may not be driving a hedge. Car has been under a tree all week and I'm not sure I'll get a chance to clean it first .

Yep, I love electric stuff, the shove when the Teslas take off is just nuts. The only things I'd miss from petrol is the noise and smell. Range and recharging are making serious leaps, there's also been a demo of charging at relatively high speeds.

There is a wastegate on the first turbo, that should be opening regardless of what the EGCV is up to. Try dropping the boost controller to 'off' or whatever option it has to not interfere with the wastegate pressure and see if the first turbo behaves more sensibly. If that checks out, the next step is to trace through all the vac lines and make sure they connect up to the right locations. Once that's proven out, test the actuators and VSVs. Do it nice and methodically, it's a complicated system and not something you can just scattergun fix.

You shouldn't be seeing anything like that boost pressure at low RPM unless someone has modified things. Normal first turbo only pressure is around 0.5-0.7bar at that RPM. There are ways to put a bleed valve in near the back of the engine to raise the pressure on the first turbo, not done it myself and can't find the detail, look for anything hiding on the vac lines back there that doesn't look stock. Losing boost pressure at cutover is a classic indication that the second turbo isn't spinning up, so when the cutover happens you lose all your pressure back down the intake via the second turbo. Although if that were actually the case your TTC should produce nearly no boost. Weird. I'd suggest starting to look for leaks in the vac system as well as testing all the VSVs actually work. The idle air control valve has also sometimes been fingered as a cause of problems, essentially anything on the vacuum system might be wonky... This page has the pressures that each actuator should open at and how to test, pain in the arse to do it on the car but might be a last resort for a really stubborn to diagnose fault.

Fully working j-specs with good pads and fresh discs can lockup your wheels under braking. The UK's will do it several times without fading and I've found just feel a bit more solid. Both will eventually overheat if you try, UK's handle the heat better without running fancy pads and fluids. It all depends on what you want out of the car. There are threads on the measured breaking distances and various other gubbins that can be found through a touch of rummaging about if you want the numbers. I can't see that I've saved a link to any. I swapped to UK's as my J's were a bit shot and for the cost of an overhaul I figured I might as well replace them. Very few things are better than the UK brakes if they're in good condition. There is also a thread on wheels known to clear the UK brakes.

I love the rush on 1st to 2nd turbo cut in with BPU, gives you the grin factor. For me it's about how a car feels that makes it enjoyable, I'm not actually that fussed about total power output. If you were making a track car I can see why you'd want to smooth that changeover as it could unsettle the car and more boost on 1st turbo == more power overall.