xm 80

;P i knew that something like this would come just wanted to protect the camshafts and stuff from debry since the valve covers are off all the time. But now on to the topic,are they really fine? btw i think the guys over at elmhurst toyota sent me a wrong water pump....does the TT pump have a seperate water outlet on the pump itself?

Took some pics

Understood still the cam seals looked a lot worse and oil was leaking from there...just a bit.i replaced them,but i'm not sure if i have to push them in any further

that's what i thought too......it sort of looks like the oil has come from the dizzy and made it's way all the way down the engine...IMO. i'll clean everything and have a better look at it afterwards.

So here's a close up from the crank seal....thoughts?!?

as you can see it's full of oil....btw I already cleaned the upper part of the head in this pic

thanks guys for all the kind infos!!! to be honest those cam seals look pretty new to me.....strangly!?!?! if thought while everything is apart it would be a good time to change old seals out to prevent doing the whole procedure again. not sure about the crank seal at the moment....haven't had the time to get the crank sprocket off yet. one thing I noticed is that the engine was full of oil, in the front. this could be caused by the dizzy , because it's oily as shit, but not sure. I will try to post up some pics of the engine shortly

I'm at the point now of changing the front crank and cam seals on my Na . I have absolutely no history about the services which where done to the car, so IMO it should be a good thing to change these. engine has around 130k Km (not sure about that since it was at one time converted to miles?!?! ). So I searched a bit around on how to (best) change the crank and cam seals.....but as I was reading more and more I also got more and more confused. some say you have to take off the cam caps to replace the cam seals, other don't do this...some use some sort of oil or lubricant to install them, others push them in dry. to be honest I have never done this before and I'm a bit careful with things like this, so any advice would be appreciated! as for the front crank seal, I read that it could be installed wrong/to far in.....has anyone a pic of a correct installed front crank seal as reference? thanks in advance for your help guys

thanks guys soooooo much!!!!! i've been searching around the web and also came up with the carbon deposits.....make sense, since i found a lot of carbon/oil stuff in the intake manifold, all the way to the intake valves! @DNK: sorry i forgot to mention that it's a NA Supra. it's also strange....i found varies numbers of what is normal for a NA engine...but i guess it should be fine then @ider: i checked the gauge afterwards at work,....both the low and the high readings where correct!

so i finally had some time to do a compression test on my engine....but i'm abolutly confused about the readings!?!?! here is what i was reading with the oil temp at around 80°C ("warm engine"): #1 225psi #2 220psi #3 227psi #4 223psi #5 220psi #6 220psi wasn't expecting this high readings at all, since i guessed that the head gasket was blown????!!!! as of shop manual these readings are way to high (new should be around 160psi IIRC). so my question is, what could cause this??? here are some things i noticed that might also indicate a trouble: - if i remove the PCV hose (intake side) from the intake and put my finger over the hole of the intake the idle rpm drops abouut 100-200 rpms -had some oil in the intake, not much, but it was visible to the eye also took a pic of the spark plugs...will post that later. since my dad own an endoscope i also gave it a try and had a closer look at the pistons...and they looked sort of "clean" to me??? they some darker patches (looked like rust...brownish) and some brighter spots....which looked like white or yellow-ish. any thoughts? car still idles a bit rough and have some misfiring (i would say), but this could be of another issue with the ignition timing (still have to check that too).

Sure it's fairly easy the only thing u need is a puller for the clutch plate, not sure if u can do it without one. I did this a couple of months ago with my spare AC compressor....luckily for me the clutch plate was already off.

some update here: so i bought a new TPS and IAC (planing to keep the car, so no reason not to change out some expensive parts IMO) installed the TB with the new components and well it got a bit better. so what it does now is cold start idles up to 2000rpm and then drops it very slowly over a long time to 1300rpm where it stays forever. so i took the car out for a quick spin and the car felt def. better then before, but still idles at around 1300 rpm all the time. i know u guys mentioned about getting another ECU, but Supras are pretty rare over here in Germany, yet to find a correct JDM ECU! I could prop. buy one from the UK, but than again i have to spent Money, just to try......well in the end i might have to,but for now i'm still trying several other things. what i noticed yesterday was that the IAC is "stuck" open at warm idle?!?!? i took the intake tube off and let the car run without it....same thing as before, idle rpm at 1300 and once i put something on the hole for the IAC the car stalls??? another funny thing is that even if i unplug the IAC the car stays at the same idle rpm (1300) should this not effect the cars idle? so i took my ohmmeter out and measured the pins on the IAC plug (harness side) while the car was running and had IMO some strange readings.... all i got was around 78 ohms constant on all pins if i used B1 and S1-S4 . If i used the B2 pin and S1-S4 i didn't get any Signal/ohms ???? that's as far as i got last night. i'm just trying to keep this thread updated for the future . i ran across sooooo many started threads with the same problem, but once the seemed to be close to be solved the thread ends. really start to think it's the ECU ?!?!!?

You can actually measure the relay ! I would do that first or just get a new one since it looks like it's faulty. But as i stated earlier you can measure out the relay. just do as stated in the workshop manual.

so here is an update on what happened next (for future references): took the car out for a quick spin about 15 miles and left it sitting for about 30-45min. came back started the engine and same thing as before! idle gets stuck at 1000 rpm and fluctuates up and down about 50 or 100 rpm! all the symptoms where back, also during driving condition. so i drove home and had a look under the hood. again umplugged some vacuum lines and repluged them without any change. then i took the ohm meter out and measured the IACV terminals all over again.......and guess what! 2 terminals where way out of spec! they showed 40-50 ohms, the upper limit hot should be around 30 ohms! the other 2 terminals showed values around 25 ohms which is absolutly fine. so i guess my IACV is gone.....at least once it's hot. so what i did next was to cool down the valve and see what happens....and the idle got a bit better (i guess it would have been fine if i tried cooling it down more). but still is might be also a problem of the TPS. i have never adjusted a TPS, so i took the spare throttle body i have laying around to try this. i also noticed here that i have continuity between the 2 terminals with the .60mm feeler gauge! but i also noticed that the throttle plate has some Play in it until it really opens. this is about 2.3mm!! so i opened the stop screw and turned it all the way until it was firm with the point at which the throttle plate is just about to open. then i opened the TPS and adjusted it to the point where with the .40mm feeler gauge i still have 2 Ohms (Workshop Manual tells u to be within 500 or less ohms?!?!?!), and the point where i have no continuity with the .60mm feeler gauge. all the other values where also in spec. can anyone tell me if this is ok? or is it wrong to adjust the TPS like this? from what i read on the Internet is that there is a value which tells the ECU "you're not idling now, we are driving", which is read from the TPS......could this be the point with the .60mm feeler gauge? i'm not an expert on this so any kind of help would be awesome

so guys the most mystirious thing happened looks like the problem solved it self????? i don't know why!!! herre's what i did yesterday to the car: just wobbled on some of the vacuum lines, unplugged them here and there, replugged them.... i noticed the water level in the tank was almost not at zero?!?!?! don't know why.....so i refilled it to full and let it run for a couple of minutes. it was still fluctuacting like carzy afterwards! so here's what i did today: i measured all the pins on both the TPS and the IACV. IACV cold and hot! all in specs, except one was close to out 30 ohms (hot condition) which is the upper limit.also measured the TPS as of manual....also here everything in specs except the third value which should be "no continuity" had continuity!! the .60mm feller gauge didn't do anything....i needed a 3.6mm feeler gauge until the "no continuity" status was achieved! am i doing something wrong? since it's a NA j-spec supra i'm not 100% sure if the values are the same as the US NA ones. i'm also not getting this : "apply vacuum to throttle opener before testing TP sensor" IMO there is none on the NA throttle body.....or?

oh one more Thing just popped into my mind.....i'm always getting random Speed sensor Signal codes from time to time. last year there was again the CEL on so i checked and it throw me the TPS code, but after disconnecting the battery over night that code never came up again!?!?! car ran like normal!

nope at the Moment it will stick to 1000rpm no mather what! thx guys for all the Kind help!!!! also tried to get some more infos over at suprafourms.com....no one replied . i know it could be the TPS or the IACV, but i wasn't sure if this could also be the problem while driving! i totally forgot to mention that i had some issues with the AC before....could it be that the AC might be a Problem too? i know that if you press the AC button the rpm will raise a little bit by demand of the ECU. so here are the symptons i had with the AC: it went on and off automaticly without pushing the button at all, i noticed this only because the bearing of the AC failed and i heard this strange noice coming from the engine bay. i also have to say that the "defrost windshield" button was always engaged and as far as i know this means that the AC will always be some sort of "on". what i did then was i removed the plug for the magnetic rotor so the AC won't work anymore (i'll prob. ditch it anyways since i hardly use it at all) and everything was good for some time. yesterday i checked if the AC still tries to activate itself. so i plugged in the connector to the magnetic rotor and nothing happened! even tried to push the AC button and turned the AC up fully......still nothing happened.....the rotor didn't engage!?!?! my question now is, is there a possibility that the AC ECU is shot and always tries to engage the compressor, giving a signal to the engine ECU to raise the rpm????

hey guys, I really need your help! the Supra is acting weird lately.it's a 93 jdm-spec 5 gear manual NA. so here's what happened: the car is having trouble since a couple of months with idle (normally idles between 850 and 1000rpm, but stays at the rpm), I don't mind since I wanted to take the engine and everything apart over this winter. unfortunately things got worse. at some point it fluctuated between 1000 and 1500rpm at stops.....then it got even worse and the car couldn't find idle at all. it was all over the place at some point it even stalled. took the battery off and let it off over the night next morning car runs like a charm, even the idle was spot on at 750 rpm! after some weeks it all began again. now it got to a point where it's even acting more funny than before. at the weekend I took it out for a spin, everything was ok except high idle (950 rpm or so), drove about 60 miles and at a stop I noticed the rpm where fluctuating at 1000 rpm just about 50 or 100 rpm up and down. I visited a friend and let the car cool down for about 1 hour or so, came back to drive home and I still had this strange fluctuations! (of course!!) but I noticed that this is not just happening at idle! it also happens during the driving. I noticed it within the next town where I had to drive 30km/h which is around 2000rpm or so in second gear. the car was shaking, like someone blipped the gas pedal just for a second and then let it go. I didn't noticed it at higher speeds, but this could be because of the bumpy roads outside towns. already searched this forum and supraforums.com, even googled this symptoms, but couldn't find this fluctuation thing while driving....only at idle. didn't check yet for codes, but I did previously and there where no codes, except the speed sensor code which sometimes comes on. could this really be because of a bad TPS or IACV? I unplugged the IACV while the engine was running and it got a bit better in terms of idle rpm (dropped about 150rpm to 1000rpm) but it was still fluctuating.

it's just strange....guess I have to look more into it. the thing is that I went on a 1,5 hour ride yesterday (it was nice and warm outside) without any problems at all! the only thing I changed was, I set the temp. to around 28°C...not sure if it'll happen again or if the problem has just been solved by unplugging and reinstalling the clutch relay or by just using the self test, but it was fine yesterday. so fingers crossed it sorted itself out anyway thx scooter for the help

thanks for all the help! so let's say if the temperature is set to the lowest possible position it'll still try to cool, even if the AC switch if in off position and the "auto" mode is not selected?!?!

not sure if I get this right Ric so the AC pulley shouldn't turn if the AC is turned off?!?!

hmm ok.....so let me get this....if there's a leak in the system the compressor wants to increase the pressure in the system by turning on automatically? is it possible to just unplug the fuse of the magnet clutch and drive around like this? I mean I don't really need the AC anyways, also been thinking of delete the whole system at some point.

not sure if that's a normal state...it just kicks in when ever it wants without me doing anything! no I'm not concerned about the idle, that is normal....it just doesn't make sense to me that the AC is turning on(the magnet clutch engages), on it's own. I know my English might not be the best to describe this thing, but I hope you guys get it anyway I was also thinking about this: what if the relay for the magnet clutch is faulty, but only if the engine bay gets hot....does this effect a relay at all?

so here's the problem I'm having the last couple of weeks with the AC compressor/clutch. if the car gets hot (after driving and coming to a longer stop at a traffic light) the AC clutch will engage and disengage on it's own!?!? it doesn't happen when the car is cold (as far as I know). I noticed this, because the AC compressor makes a whining noice once engaged (could be a bad bearing or something similar).....well at the moment I don't care about the bearing of the compressor, I'm more worried about the weird acting of the compressor clutch. so here's what I already figured out: -AC works fine and still cools (even pretty good after all this years) -AC Ecu seems to be working fine (I did the self test yesterday, and no error codes where present) -checked the AC magnet clutch relay and it's also good (at least under cold condition, not sure if this changes after the engine bay is hot or the relay is hot, but shouldn't make any difference or?) does anyone have an idea what else could be wrong with the setup?

soooo i had 6 hours today to kill and started undoing the left hand side.....all i got was this: i managed to open the nut on the ball joint and the self locking one....that's it!! the other nut/bolt wont open, because i can't get any decent angle on the bolt to open it..... the other thing is that the ball joint is still stuck and tells me right in the face to go fuck myself...any ideas what else might help? so far i tried: using a ball joint seperating tool (looks like a fork), heat up the area around the ball joint,try to give some decent smashing with a hammer to loosen it up a bit....but nothing! help would be really appreciated