Shaleskin

Thank you all for your suggestions. Given me a few idea's of some routes I can take

If you don't mind me asking, with the link G4 setup you do, is it as simple as plugging the ecu in and then a few wires need to be relocated a bit like how the emanage ultimate is setup or is it a little more involved? I'm desperate to get away from the emanage now. I'm comfortable doing the wiring if needed but just wanting an idea of what needs to be done with it. I've been doing research for so long now on it i'd rather have something a little solid. One issue is the hot start isn't consistent even if I apply the trick that Ian_C did years ago to create a column in the airflow table to read 500rpms and lower, to add fuel to compensate. Without changing anything some days it's fine, others it just keeps cranking. Other strange one is from cold, you start to pootle off and the AFR's start a little rich which is fine, then starts going leaner and leaner until it wants to stall and is >19 afr. Once it's warmed up a little and it runs fine. I'd like to go with bigger injectors than my current 650cc and with the emu is being I'd like to work with something with more options and a more reliable unit. /rant over haha

I've heard this to be the case but not sure if it still suffers with the way it changes gear? Just had a look and seen the Link G4+ on Garage whifbitz site for a price I could do if it would work with the autobox. Anyone using this on their auto's? If you don't mind me asking, what piggy are you using and do you have hot start or other issues? Thanks guys.

Evening all! I've currently got an emanage ultimate as a piggyback on my car and it's causing me grief that I just want rid of it. I've seen there's some ECU's which can be used for controlling the auto box which seem to be £2k+, little steep for me unfortunately. Is there a way to use a standalone ecu like the ECU master black with the auto ecu still in place to control the autobox, effectively just removing the engines standard ECU? Is this possible or has anyone done something similar? Cheers

Morning all, Does any one have 2 bulb holders for sale or know the part number that i need, it's for the sidelight one? I'm assuming both housings are the same size as I'm going to wire these in on my preface lift, indicators have been wired in already. Thanks!

Haha, was looking into the AEM but never had confirmation from the people I asked if it would work with an auto. I'm sure the injectors are the correct impedance but will double check I have started looking at top feed injectors, just need to look at what else needs to be done other than purchasing a fuel rail and FPR. Just puzzled as I had it starting happily on the EMB when hot or cold but so far with the EMU it seems to be an art to get it working with some of the information scattered around the web

Morning all! Been using the EMB since I bought the Supra 3 or so years ago with no issues, mapped myself when I went single turbo. Wanting to go with bigger injectors (currently 650cc SARD's) in the near future I've purchased the EMU (has jumper 21 on the board so is one of the later revisions?) and what I've come to find is if I leave the I/J scaling as before: 440 after: 440 it'll start hot and cold with no issues but have to pull fuel to be around the -50's that it leaves no room for adjustment further up the table. If I try before: 440 after: 650 it'll start cold no problems, drive really nicely but cannot for any reason start when it's been warmed up, hot start. I've read alot of people have suffered with the hot start with these and did see on this forum someone mentioned they'd added 20% into the airflow table at 500rpm column, I've added and removed fuel in both airflow and injector tables to no avail, doesn't sputter or give a sign it's trying to catch and just turns over continuosly. I did at one point add in the lag times which was (off the top of my head) 0.9 for standard and 1.5 for the SARD's but this just made the car run silly rich and was ending up pulling so much fuel from the tables that I didn't have much head room for adjustment later on. They're now both set as blank. What have you adjusted/set in the EMU (don't suggest throwing it away ) to get around the hot start issue? JDM Single turbo, 650cc SARD with greddy 4 bar map sensor and AEM wideband. TIA

Afternoon all, Seen someone's asked about NA bush size (didn't want to intrude) but i'm after some for my jap TT, anyone know if they're 47mm (like the NA's) or 50mm? Thanks,

Thanks for letting me know! Have PM'd you.

Hi guys, I'm after a ecu cover plate. Not sure if is known as anything else but protects the ecu/wiring loom from excited passengers from stomping on them almost like a foot rest. Mine didn't come with one when I bought it.

Are there people on here using an emanage blue on the TT engine? If so, could you let me know what you're running. Ie. Single turbo, 650cc injectors etc as I'd like to study your maps if possible. Thanks in advanced!

That's completely understandable. Well, I'll get them to check castor but will wind dampers in fully tight and see if that helps? Is there any tests I can try with the shocks? Thanks for the feedback.

Just done the quick test as you suggested Chris. With engine off moving left to right and back again it's smooth and very light. Engine running, also smooth and lighter. Felt like a fiat 500 in city mode when turning. I'll try and get the company to look at my front caster. Would there be a reason why they didn't check this? Ie. A visual sign and they thought "better not"? Thanks,

So if wheels do or do not move freely doing the suggested test. What do you think it would be? Sounds like you have an idea. I may pop back up there and get them to look at the caster angle. Thanks

I've got: rears - 9.5j 265/35/18 fronts - 8.5j 245/40/18 Continental compact sport 3 et35 all round. (Bare in mind it still did this with old wheels that were 7.5j all round). It is on Tiens Super streets, not sure how low but it's still practical and looks like the front is higher than the rear. Damping is 5clicks out on front and 6 on rears.

I'll have to look at the paperwork tomorrow to see the company. Up in Portsmouth though. A friend and I went over the subframe bolts last year August time and cranked them all up for peace of mind but were very tight. Suspension bushes have not been properly checked, I have an MOT next Saturday and going to ask him to have a look over the bushes while it's up in the air. They adjusted toe on both rear wheels and front drivers side. Without having another look I can't say if they've been adjusted recently unfortunately. I wish I could explain the issue better as it's been doing it since I purchased it last March and it hasn't got worse, just stays the same. Would be easier if someone could drive it and get an idea of how it seems the car has a mind of its own.

Hi all, I've spoken to a few mechanics when I've remembered when I'm out and about about this issue I'm having with steering. more emphasized when over 40mph but when trying to drive in a straight line it constantly wants to pull either left or right and if you turn against it a little bit and hold it the car starts to sway left to right, right to left while still going straight which if left will start getting worse. (Feels like bad shocks but had them checked and they're okay). I've changed rear droplinks and ARB bushes, 4 wheel alignment been done and also fitted new wheels and tyres and it still does this. I've read that outer toe arms can cause wayward steering and general lack of feedback to the steering wheel as mine feels very sloppy but a quick check shows they are alright. If anyone else can suggest what else to look for then it will help! Anything after 70mph is just dangerous to drive at. Strangely enough though if you're turning slightly, regardless of speed the car feels solid. Just can't stay still in a straight line.

@Shane - No all standard on Aux system, it has HKS adjustable cam pulleys but that's it on the belt systems. I'll get this one rebuilt if this should be a fairly static number, worth having it fresh again. Thanks for the feedback

@Chris: That exact scenario happened on my Mr2 (Oil contaminated) I had and found someone to clean up and replace whatever was needed inside. All golden. Checked again from cold earlier today and it was a between 13.6 -14.1 with just engine running and heater fan on lowest speed. Sub + Amp was a removed a few days ago. When full blower, lights + Main beams, rear demister on it went down to 12.9V, sometimes up to 13.1V but that was it. Turned off Rear demister and stayed the same. Turn blower down and went to 13.5V's give or take. Do these sound about right or should it be fairly static around through the 14v mark? Thanks, Ps. I did also put a jumper cable from Alt housing to -VE on battery and this didn't help much, if at all.

I'll give that a go Shane. I do indeed have have a multimeter and was reading the voltage from the turbo timer while driving but used multimeter whilst idling.

Noticed it more so recently but my voltage fluctuates from 11v - 14v constantly. Pushes up to 12-14v when driving around. When idled the lights pulsate but stops when revs pick up. Would this be the alternator giving up? Battery was purchased beginning of the year by previous owner. Have checked loose connections, cleaned terminals around battery and sprayed electrical cleaner on most. Any suggestions?

running t04r turbo and have 650cc injectors. As it stands I'm making sh*t all power as i've got it running safe (12psi) until I get it mapped. Hoping for around 550bhp which should be achievable after seeing a supra being sold with near exact setup as mine and he made around that (can't remember exact figures). So nobody would recommend adding an additional/replacing the silencer that's already on the blitz?

Thanks for all your suggestions. I've been looking at the HKS as i had one on the mr2 turbo and it was perfect. Love the look of the blitz backbox which is why I was hoping to keep it but add an additional silencer. HKS looks good too and have been looking for a 2nd hand one I could grab but not many for sale it seems. Sir Diffsalot that looks fantastic, might read into that.

I have a blitz nur spec on my single turbo and I can just about put up with it with the bung in, without it in find it too noisey as my daily and wanted to know if people have tried putting an aftermarket silencer in their system? I'm looking at one on ebay: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261167420486&alt=web Wondered if anyone's used one and wanted to know if it made much difference? As I've got a screamer I get noise when I'm after it but would like daily driving to have a burble but not just over power every other noise. Any other suggestions also welcome

It does fit the standard exhaust for non VVTI jspec (had 2.5" on mine on original turbo's and this has the same design) I'll pm you shortly.