bluecoupe46

Cheers! I Hope so!

Hi All, I thought I would post my notes and documentation for hardwiring an Engine Masters EMU Black to a 2JZ-GTE Non-vvti automatic ecu. This guide may well also help with those wiring other brands of ecu alongside the stock ecu. This is for those that wish to keep their auto gearbox, whilst benefiting from running a standalone ecu to run the engine. I would like to thank D1andonlyantman for his write-up on installing the EMU black on the VVTI engine, this helped me with my own install despite the pinouts being different. His thread can be found here: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?355427-How-to-wire-in-a-standalone-ECU-(Ecumasters-EMU-BLACK) 1st of all, you will have a laminated card with the EMU Black pinouts in the box with your ECU. If not, here it is: You will also need the stock pinouts, mine is a J-spec, the pinouts for which are here: If you need UK/ US spec pinouts, they are here also, please be aware the UK and US spec pinouts vary from the J-spec, so the below excel documents may not match: A good source for detailed and easy to understand ecu pinout's is Wilbo's ecu pinout table. Ecu pinouts for the various 2jz ecu's with descriptions can be found here: http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/browse/#view=ViewFolder&param=2JZ-GTE%20Engine%20Wiring I created an excel document which details which wires connect to what, please remember to pull any redundant wires out of the back of the ecu plug once you've finished wiring. Or at-least cap them off with some heat shrink. (I found it easier to remove them, as it is far less messy). If the excel document below doesn't work, please comment below or pm me and I will email you a copy. The excel document is attached at the bottom of this document. p.s. this document is useful to keep if you have another ecu, as many of the pinouts for non-vvti engines will be similar, but it also means you can alter the pinouts to suit your ecu without having to make a new table. I would highly recommend getting a pre-terminated loom as well, as it makes the job easier not having to cut wires to length and install lodes of crimps, with the pre-terminated loom the description of the cable is also printed on the side of the wire, so if you can't remember what a wire is for, you can see it's for ignition coil 1 for example. Following on from D1andonlyantman's thread, I will advise the same as him regarding additional sensors. Details for which are below: Wideband knock sensor: Bosch 0261231188 Knock Sensor - (eBay seller id: gnj_automotive) (eBay item number: 143143385591) (however this will likely change within a few months as listings come and go) Wideband knock sensor cable: Raychem 2 Core Screened Cable (get 5m minimum) (eBay seller id: s.t.motorsportsshop) (eBay item number: 202247539128) Wideband Knock sensor connectors: BOSCH TYCO AMP Junior Power Timer 2 Way Fuel Injector Connector Bosch EV1 (eBay seller id: 3waycomp) (eBay item number: 141725774390) I would also recommend getting a Bosch wideband o2 sensor (4.9LSU for the EMU Black, or 4.2LSU for the EMU Classic). Stupidly, they don't supply the connector for the sensor, so you'll have to buy that separately: (eBay seller id: jabbersd), eBay item number: 223352768849 To install the wideband knock sensors, you will need the 2 core screened cable as mentioned above. on the sensor connector you'll see the numbers 1 and 2. Wire number 1 to the knock sensor input on the ecu and number 2 to the sensor ground on the ecu. the braided shielding around the cable should be connected to a chassis ground (I soldered a length of wire to mine and put a ring terminal on the end and bolted it to the chassis. Install 1 sensor to ecu knock sensor 1, and the other to knock sensor 2. I have included copies of my notes below for further info (excuse the poor handwriting). If you have any queries, please ask below and I will do my best to answer them, and update this thread with relevant information. P.s. if you have found this page and no pictures or documents are uploaded, fear not. I will upload them shortly once I have switched computer. Now for the legal bit: I take no responsibility for any damage caused to your engine or electronics by the installation of any aftermarket ecu following this guide. Best of luck! Kind regards, Alex EMU wiring.xls

I've also been looking into this. Funnily enough there's a few sensors on Alibaba for £20 that "fit a supra", I don't expect they will, but i thought for £20 it's worth a shot. As Mark says, the Yaris ones look very similar. If you don't continue with the project I'm going to have to as both my rear sensors are destroyed as they wouldn't come out. Having my hubs blasted and painted with new bearings installed. Hopefully one of us will find something that works soon so everyone can replace their sensors without having to pay hundreds of pounds.

As the title suggests, I am in need of a flexplate from an automatic 2jz, and a new TT headgasket. Also looking for a 2JZ GE T4 log manifold

Do you have the flexplate for this? If so i'll take the flexplate off your hands for £25?

Wheels, Emanage Ultimate ECU, Charcole Canister, Rear wiper motor, Arch cable guards, fuse box lid & VVTI MAF still available.

Bump. Open to offers

As per my pm, I think mine has the same issue as yours. Motor is good, but the mechanism is snapped at the base.

Hi mate, The alloys are 18" Rota Grid Drift's Both front and back have an offset of ET30 Front is 8.5j and rears are 9.5j I think I'm going to refurbish them fully prior to sale, as I've got everything I need to do it, including professional spray guns etc. And even bought the paint for them months ago! Toyota Pearl grey with a 2k clear coat. Pics below. If anyone is interested in making an offer either prior or post refurb just let me know. Balls! I've reached my Tapatalk image cap for the month. I'll upload more pics tomorrow via the forum website. Screw it, I've just signed up for Tapatalk instead [emoji23]

I have looked at it and believe it's a power fold. Unfortunately the tabs mounts where the black unit connect to the outer mirror cover are snapped. But the electronics still work. See photos below.

Not freshly repainted though

I have a damaged passenger electric mirror (just the internals). The motor was working fine when in my old supra, but the mirror tabs have snapped for up and down movement. If you just want the electrics and can use your old mirror tabs then you can have it for £10 including postage. Kind regards, Alex

No problem! I'll let you know in the next few days if I hear from him or not. Cheers

Hi mate, I'll clean them up and get some pics sent over to you tomorrow. [emoji16] As for specs they are 18" from memory 8.5j fronts and 9.5j rear? Can't remember the ET. I'll confirm it all tomorrow! Cheers

Hi Darren, Please see pics below. If you still want to go ahead please let me know and I'll pm you PayPal details. Kind regards Alex

Hi mate. Apologies I didn't get round to doing it this weekend. I will 100% definitely do it tonight as I've cleared some space in my work area. Happy to sort payment before or after I paint. I will send pics once done. Actually, thinking about it I'll go do it now. Give me 20 or so minutes to prep, prime and spray and I'll send some photos accross once it's done. Kind regards, Alex

Bump. More items added. Pics still to follow

Hi All, SOLD is my Greddy emanage ultimate piggyback ecu The ecu comes complete with: - Universal wiring loom (was wired into my supra) - 3 Bar map sensor - Injector adapter 2 to run supra injectors - Instructions cd - Original box etc... This ecu has had hardly any use at all, it is literally almost brand new, although the box is tatty from storage. Another positive is its fairly simple to install. SOLD £340 posted. Boxed up very securely and ready to go!

Weatherstrips photos

Chris Wilson or EBC yellow stuff. I'll get slated for mentioning yellowstuff, but they are genuinely good pads for the price! Never experienced fade at all when on track, they work better with a little bit of heat, but they'll stop you well in a bad situation. Yellowstuff are far superior to red stuff.

Just wondering with regards to the fuel pump relays what you mean by pin 85, pin 86 pin 30 etc... As far as I can see, pin 85, 86 etc are not pins on the ecu? If so which connector block is it? If not, where do you have your fuel pump relay etc wired up to?