HarleyFDMD

As Shawn has said though, i definitely think you'd make more money selling the car separately to the v161, syvecs and B03B The car alone must be worth in excess of 15k and as Shawn said the parts should add up to somewhere close to 10k

I would say about 21k for the car plus the parts

Will you be at japfest in it ben?

That looks soo cool!!

No worries mate. Wheels and offsets can be a real pain if you have no references to go off

Again with the front, The below picture shows an 8.5j wheel with a +10 offset. Again i have rolled arches. Your potential 9.5j et35 would sit 12mm further into the arch and again i would guess that would be ok but at the very most you'd possibly need a minor arch roll.

Ok so the picture below is a 10j with an offset of +25 I have rolled arch that allow me to run the lower offset. Your potential wheel specs with the +35 offset will sit 10mm further into the arch. I would hazard a guess that that would sufficiently clear stock arches but if not the very most you would need would be a very minor arch roll.

Thanks mate. I am certainly going to buy more of the ACF50, definitely worth the extra few £s. It has a funny texture to it, really silky. Im really looking forward to the 30th. Alot of people I'd like to meet, yourself included, it'll be a cracking day!

Got a nice bit done tonight. Little bit of spring cleaning so to speak, So i figured before refitting my wheels i would give everything a good clean. Last year i gave my whole rear subframe a good refresh with new brakes, bolts, wishbones, bushes, coilovers etc etc which i have documented previously. When i did this, along with undersealing, i gave everything a good coat of grease. All the bushes and bolt heads in particular. I did this because i wanted everything to last... which it has very well! Only problem is that it didnt look very nice, i am often under my car doing something or other and it bugs me that i spent all that money and it looks abit shit because everythings covered in white grease.. even if underneath it its mint. I was scoping through afew threads awhile back and came across a discussion about winter storage. I think it was Sheafa that mentioned ACF50 spray and i did abit of digging on it. Anyway long story short it was initially designed for aerospace and is frequently used on aircraft as a corrosion inhibitor.. very good stuff!! First of all i gave everything a good spray with some neutral meguiars alloy wheel cleaner. I then got my jetwash out and coated everything in snow foam and let it all sink in for afew minutes Once it all had time to soak i pressure washed it all off, all the grease and grime from the past year. Underneath all the grease everything was still like brand new. I then gave everything an hour or so to dry off abit before going out with misses hairdryer to finish it off! Then the ACF50... i literally applied a whole can to the rear end lol. I absolutely doused everything, every arm, bolt, bush everything got covered! Its clear too which is the nice thing about it along with all of its other properties. Then finally on with the wheels!! I will get some better pictures over the weekend as i still have the fronts to do. I will also be doing the ACF50 on the front. Also still awaiting my TRD spoiler from the painters but actually quite like the de-spoilered look too!

Give me a minute and il get you some pictures of mine that you can reference

10j +35 will be fine 10.5j +20 wont fit atall. You'd need rolled arches, mad camber and stretched tyres to get that under the arch

Not exactly your request but i have recently had my wheels powder coated black which are similar to yours

Hmm good luck

Thank you guys I will hopefully get around to fitting them Wednesday evening providing the weather is good. Working 15 hour days at the moment so time is scarce. On another note i picked up my roll cage hoop today from the fabricator. I had a harness bar welded in so finally i can have my harnesses fitted correctly. I used 3mm thick seamless tubing (bought from a specific rollcage tubing manufacturer) and internally sleaved the joints. I also incorporated two 90 degree OMP strengthening plates. I just need to paint it now which im going to do satin black

Thanks Rich, im glad i did it. Much better than before. Also congratulations to you and your misses, great news on the pregnancy!!

The rear end i had done a couple years ago, the front end i had done 14 months ago

Thought i would write out a slightly more in depth guide as to how i achieve the tyre writing on the sidewall of my tyres as i have done this afew times now and get asked alot how i do it and what i use. Most people think they are stickers but they aren't. So this is a step by step break down of what i do: So obviously you need to decide which stencils you want to use. These are one time use only stencils and you get 4 in a pack. As you will see in these pictures i used 30mm speedhunter stencils that i bought directly from the speedhunter webpage and also a set of 30mm Yokohama stencils that i got from ebay.. both sets suit 18" tyres and both retail at around £24 Position where you want them in relation to one another (this doesnt really matter if your only using one stencil per tyre) Then for possibly the slightly controversial part.. i 'sand' my sidewall smooth. Only where i am applying the stencils and only very very lightly. Just enough to dust off the texture and pronounced writing. You dont want to apply any pressure and certainly dont want to go digging deep! I used an air tool that would typically be used to sand the area of a tyre where you would then apply a puncture repair patch so effectively its the perfect tool for the job. Note you can skip this part and apply/spray the stencils against untouched sidewalls but the edges wont be as crisp. You then want to thoroughly clean the sidewall to rid it of any grease or tyre shine. I used a scrubbing pad and brake cleaner. Apply the stencils and remove the top film Mask the area around the stencils carefully making sure to cover everything! Then spray away with your choice of colour! The speedhunter website recommends using primer. I have used halfords white primer aerosol for the majority and to do the Yokohama logo i used halfords red primer aerosol. Once dry remove the masking and carefully remove the stencils Tah dah! Next.. mask everything up again! At this stage i then mask up the wheels again leaving the sidewalls bare, I then spray a couple of fine coats of lacquer over the stencils just to help seal them abit. Then finish result... Now dont expect these to last the life of the tyre. It is a fair amount of work for something that is pretty short lived. The paint will eventually start to wear off/crack, but if done well it will last afew months. It is also worth mentioning you cannot do this with the tyre off the rim... well, you can, but expect all the paint to crack as you refit the tyres.

Over the past couple of days (in glorious weather!) I have got the tyre stencils done on the rear tyres, im going to write a guide going into depth how i did it as alot of people just think they are stickers which they arnt.

Thanks Chris, i cant wait for japfest. Will be good to see you too!

Thank you, hopefully not, i didnt get any bother with my old wheels and tbh it would still pass an MOT like it. You dont gouge into the sidewall or go deep atall.. you literally just graze over the top of the lettering with one of these

Got the tyres fitted to the rear wheels today and have been looking at the tyre stencils im going to be using. I will get them done hopefully over the weekend as they take quite a long time to do properly. I think i might create a 'how to' thread too on the process because i have had alot of people ask me about them since i did it on my last wheels. I know this looks drastic but its literary only dusting off the writing using a specific tyre sander usually used for puncture repairs.