RACsupra

First person on the scene The first safety rule is don't stop unless you need to. The less chaos at the scene, the lower the chances of a follow-on crash. There are only two reasons to stop: to warn following traffic when a crash-scene isn't visible on approach, or to administer first-aid when someone is in urgent need. If you need to stop, please do so with great care. Make sure you are past the accident and on the grass - never stop on the track itself unless totally unavoidable. The first person to arrive should warn other traffic. Walk carefully back down the grass, making sure you are well clear of the track in case you cause another accident as people swerve to avoid you. Once in position, get behind the armco. Wave to traffic to slow it down (carrying a yellow flag or jacket is a good idea). Make sure you are well back from the accident, however: waving too vigorously too close to the crash could make matters worse by distracting drivers just when they need to be looking ahead. Second person The second person should call for help. The phone number of the office at the Start / Finish point is +49 2691 302215. (You'll need a mobile - the trackside huts are locked during public sessions.) Most of the marshals speak little or no English, so some useful German phrases follow. All spelt as they sound, not as they are written: Accident = Unfarl Ambulance = Krankenvargen Seriously hurt = Schver verletzt Helicopter will be understood in English Not hurt = Nicked verletzt More German phrases can be found here Third person The third person to arrive goes to the aid of the casualty IF you can do so safely. If in doubt, get behind the armco and wait until the safety car arrives. Please don't risk being hit yourself. Emergency numbers Nurburgring office +49 2691 302215 The first place to report accidents Emergency services 112 The track office will usually call The above are the basic rules regarding incidents......... Although, do not run along the track!! run along after you've jumped the armco. So many people stop before the incident! whilst its galant of people to stop, you should only do so if necessary and in the safest possible way..........

Will keep an eye on things for sure. Wow! the posts in this thread have picked up better than some of the 1/4 mile time:) .... lol Now i'm not one for knowing too much about the ins and outs of drag racing but, I can appreciate that theres too many factors involved to put timing differences down to any one particular item. I'm sure the syvecs control can be adjusted to suit whatever style you opt for but, most no doubt will be set up for road style driving than any form of drag racing? I think after a good time reading various things, I'm now thinking that going for a better (possibly) gearbox option is the way to go. Like the idea of having a much newer gearbox with more gears and proper flappy control is the next step in the evolution..............

Thanks for all the feedback. I had already decided that if thats the route that I go then all the parts would be new and considered purchases. Whatever I decide, I'm airing on the side of taking it somewhere to be done, rather than attempting it myself. Although I do like to do as much as I can. Its doing the research prior to major expenditure and as mentioned within the thread, its not something I then want to change in the future.......... Theres always the Whifbitz BMW gearbox option to throw in the mix......

I've been using the Chris Wilson pads and happy to recommend them, especially as they work out at a very competetive price point. I'm torn between trying Endless or Porterfield next, just interested to see the difference between Chris' pads and some 'branded' ones.

500-600BHP would do me fine and want something useable and ideally fairly reliable. Its a VVTI facelift auto with BPU and its great. I do like the way the twins work and may decide to stick with such a set up in the future, its just interesting to get feed back and make a more considered choice on what way to achieve my goals. It's only really now that im confident the car can cope with some extra power from a handling and braking aspect that I'm looking to spend some money on a little more the performance side.......

Good call, I've already refurbed the calipers, so new seals in place and all the pistons are free and working. Put some nice new Goodridge hoses on too, along with a flush of new 5.1 . I just think they could be better, perhaps its time to try some better discs and pads..

Regular clean up with PTFE spray should prolong any issues. Being able to change them out without too much problem also made the decision a bit easier too. Spoke in depth with a couple of friends who know a thing or two about cars (not Supra's as such) and they didn't seem too concerned. If the initial set don't last then upon replacing I shall put some universal covers on, most kit car spares places carry them.

So its the initial planning that counts the most...... perhaps I miss interpreted the 'deep pockets' ongoing cost, maybe this was for those who opted to do the change on a budget. Having just changed suspension and being happy with handling now, I was looking at brakes next but second thoughts as to if I should just stick with the JDM option / UK set up (currently using Chris Wilson pads but may try Endless or Portefield) So with brakes(possibly) and suspension sorted, its the decision to go after some more power..... just deciding what route to go... ps: not sure where the wife shops, think She uses Morrisons, Waitrose mainly. I just carry it in for Her...lol

Suspension sorted and the annoying 'knock' gone..... I guess the cars old enough to make it necessary maintenance but mainly because the 'knocking' was doing my head in...... Recent replacements........ Super Pro Anti roll bar bushes and steering bushes...... New drop links Battle Version inner and outer tie rods Vibra Technics engine mounts HSD Mono Pro suspension Figs Engineering (Super Pro options): Front upper and lower arms Rear upper and lower arms Rear trac and toe arms Alignment done last monday, hunter set up using a combination of Toyota and Lance settings......... To say I'm happy with the result is an understatement........ so so glad that the handling side is sorted and that I ended up going down this route before chasing power..... I appreciate that it wasn't cheap but, you get what you pay for and the car is so different now..... loving it.

After reading lots of posts on ye olde interweb about going single, I see lots of people saying "you'll need deep pockets" Now, this doesn't appear to be for the initial cost of going single but for the ongoing costs? So, why the need for deep pockets?

I had what sounds to be similar symptoms with mine (facelift) I worked my way through various parts, starting with easiest to do and from cheapest first.........having read lots of posts online about people just living with the noise for years, I wasn't (turns out incorrectly)too concerned about failure but, the noise bugged the hell out of me...... so heres what I done to find the problem.... 1: checked and tightened subframe bolts = still the same 2: checked front caliper bolts = still the same 3: changed anti roll bar bushes (super pro) = still the same 4: changed steering bushes (super pro) = still the same 5: changed engine mounts (vibra technics) = still the same 6: changed inner and outer tie rods (battle version) = still the same 7: changed suspension strutts and spring (HSD Mono Pro all round) = still the same 8: changed front upper and lower arms (Figs Engineering, Super Pro version) = found problem, front lower ball joint 9: so impressed with the front items, have now fitted the Figs Engineering rear upper and lower arms, trac and toe arms.............. = car drives like new, if not better than.... As above, mine turned out to be front lower ball joints. Please note that since the knock started, the car has passed two MOT's and been on shaker to see if the problem could be found! Last MOT I specifically asked for them to look for the knock, which was apparent on test drive / brake test...... there was no noticable play in the front arms and other than the noise nothing that they could even advise! Upon removal of the arms, the bottom ball joints had no vertical play but could clearly be seen to stick in one place when rotated around..... guessing the 'clunk' was from the ball joint freeing itself from this position. Would say also that it wasn't apparant but having now replaced the arms / ball joints, the drive is so much more positive........ there was a feeling of the front end being a bit 'flighty' and what I put down to 'tram lining' at the front, since replacing (I know , i've basically changed everything) each item made a 'noticable' difference but, the arms really made a massive difference. Replaced all the rear items after the front became so good that you could feel the 'slop' in the rear items.....

Recent Top Gear magazine has the value of 4sp Auto's at £18k, manuals normaly higher........ but at least its another printed price at £18k that may help prove the valuation is incorrect.....

Hi Chris, tried the old igniter having cleaned all the connectors and grounds.............. fault is back, switched back to the replacement and alls well again......

Well, update on this issue...... don't like threads where you never know the outcome of an issue... Yesterday the new coil pack clips came and replaced those, nice easy job for anyone thinking of doing it. Took fuel pump out completely, i've never heard the fuel pump prime in all the time of owning the car, so its difficult to tell exactly whats happening...... had taken return from fuel rail and seen fuel on turn over so guessed it was ok but thought what the hell, good to see a nice good condition Walbro sitting in there and when connected to 12v feed, sounded very healthy..... put back in tank and definately cannot hear it prime even with ear to tank in boot........ Was reading up about the fuel ecu bypass last night and today this was where i was going to investigate more......... thankfully having coffee number three this morning whilst again checking the old interweb for ideas, the postie finally delivered my replacement igniter....... Two screws and a clip change and fired straight up........... yay again, weird thing is that there was definately spark, so i'm guessing the failure is in the signal between igniter and ecu? i'm no specialist and so this is just my thoughts on what problem was........ I had spark, I had fuel and with air which all appeared ok, there was everything that was needed to run but it wouldn't....! So there you have it, if you have the same type of issue, after trying the other things suggested within the thread, give the igniter a go............ Many thanks to all those who made suggestions, its a massive help knowing theres help about when your pulling your hair out.......... Now according to the telly, I can mend a skateboard, can mend a bike, can mend a car................... time to join the Navy...lol

Will re-check all the earthing points are good, this time will remove clean and refit to make doubly sure.... Took the ecu out this afternoon and opened it up, not sure why there was oily residue in one of the connectors yesterday, as the internals of the ecu were bone dry and the board looked good on both sides, nothing discoloured or that visually looked to be at fault. Going to check spark plugs tomorrow, see how strong the spark is and give them a clean..... either something's getting worse or the continued trying to turn over is having an effect because as of late this afternoon it's now just turning over and not firing at all? Going to try +B/FP with paper clip to check fuel again..... yep now double checking stuff..... It's really starting to annoy me now however, absolutely love the car and if I can't crack it myself, it will go to someone who can.... worst case or best case however you look at it maybe even a full build will be on the cards.... Cost so far...... coil packs, cool pack clips and igniter

Can't check it unfortunately...... car doesnt run for long enough. can test the battery whilst cranking and it drops off as you'd expect but car stops before any feed back from alternator.......... It must have fuel and spark to begin with because it fires and runs for a second or two but something is shutting things off..... Its not started over a second or two at all today, so my thinking it was a hot issue has gone out the window.....

Cheers for the ideas guys...... Tried the throttle reset, no change at all... Looked at all the hoses across the car and can see nothing unto wards.... weirdly my father mentioned alternator, its a job to tell because it does t run for long enough... I've pulled the return of the fuel rail and turned it over and fuel is coming out so guessing that rules out fuel? Would imagine rough running with injector fault, can't see them all going wrong... Got a new igniter coming so will try that when it arrives..... Weird how it's happened not long after changing coolant and top and bottom rad hoses....? Although it may have done the same without me doing those bits, it ran up fine whilst I burped the air out? Would bad alternator stop it from firing up even with healthy battery?

Checked battery cables and earthing points, changed coil packs and still won't run....... It fires up for a second or two but just dies out..... still getting code 14..... Any more ideas or things to look for greatly appreciated....

Hi everyone, hope you can help me track down this issue........ Story starts, Thursday done a long 300 mile round trip and car drove faultlesly, even sailed through another years MOT with no advisories....... Car was moved only a shoert distance on the Friday but started first time and ran perfeclty as normal. Sunday, decided to do a coolant change and car ran up to temp fine, heat through all the correct places and no issues that popped up..... Monday (yesterday) Started car without any problems and drove just under a mile when car just cut out! lights on dash same as if I was starting it...... no missfires, hesitations or anything, just cut out..... coasted as far as we could and tried to start again, car started but ran for a few seconds and stopped again. Tried starting a few times and either would start but stop within seconds or would not start at all. Sat waiting for a mate to tow me back home and tried starting, fired straight up but only drove for 300metres and cut out again....... would not start.... Towed car back home and turned the key, fired straight up and ran with no problems.... took it for a run around the block (approx 1 mile) no problems at all. Drove the car to a local garden centre 5 miles ish and as we pulled in to the car park it died again....... during this drive the engine light and the exclamation light flashed a could of times, litteraly on and off, no noticable driving problems during this time. Towed car back home, just before we left on the tow, I started the car and it remained running all the way home!! Had a look under the bonnet at numerous times and couldnt see anything noticably out of place......... Tried a few times during yesterday afternoon and it would either run for a minute or two, or it would run for a second or two only........ Been out today having a good look over and today it won't start at all, it tries but only runs for a second or two then it cuts out........ It just stops, no spluttering or anything......... I've done the paper clip trick and getting code 14.... Ignition signal apparantly? I've ordered new coil packs and clips as it was on my list of jobs to do anyway and changed fuel filter as that was another job for this week anyway........... any help greatly appreciated in tracking this issue down.... Cars a 1998 MKIV facelift VVT-i Auto, BPU

Sorry for the thread resurrection...... I'll be using the information provided in this thread when I do my coilover install tomorrow, so thanks for sharing....... I've read the instructions provided and they suggest the pre-load is set to 'hand tight', just enough to stop the spring from moving. Within the thread it states to wind two full rotations past 'hand tight'? Whats the reasoning behind this diversion from the instructions?......... i'm guessing the car was fine with the extra step tightening but, what is the benefit over whats stated in the instructions.......... or have the instructions changed since this thread was created.....?

Sad to see but white targa on fire by McDs Eastbourne yesterday..... Hope it's recoverable

Won't say exactly where I saw the car but was working in Marion Road so passed it a coupe of times

Gutted....I've just finished a job where Ive passed your car a few times, could have brought them with me a coupe of days earlier....

No worries, they fitted fine over the UK spec 4pots... If your local, no problem with you trying one for size