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I previously had an issue similar to what you describe, mine would slip and free rev or fully engage, there didn't seem to be a progression in-between. It was a very short time between that first event and full failure for me. My fluid levels were correct but I was abusing it fairly heavily over a couple of years. I changed the clutch pack in the gearbox to resolve.

Seem that one, it has the buttons offset and the ones on my remote are both on the outer edge. Thanks anyway, I appreciate the time.

That's the whole system, patches into 3 parts of factory wiring and one wire quick spliced. Anyone know where to get that key case?

You're right, there is a jumper loom and no button on the side of the box with this module. From memory it is as simple as unplug a connector from your existing wiring, plug the loom which comes with this box into each side of the now unplugged connector and then splice in the last wire or two with those cheater splicer bits (blue in your pic). I have the whole loom out the car but need to pop to my garage and should also have pictures of it installed. The jumper loom sits in the drivers side footwell fusebox area and the box under the drivers seat.

I also had this in my japanese supra, still have the box and one key fob chip but the key is in bad shape and I couldn't find a new case for the chip. It was quite easy to remove because of the way it is spliced in, I will have some pictures of it all somewhere when I removed it. Give me a few days, I will see what I can find.

Do the seat rails from manual seats swap over to the electric seats? I am done fiddling with the electric mechanisms and cogs for forward/backwards motion Cheers.

Do you still have good clearance from the top of the intake to the bonnet? Looking forward to pics.

You can hook up a light to the injector to make sure its firing while cranking. Keep in mind after the ECU receives no confirmation of ignition fired (IGF signal) after 2s it cuts fuel to avoid flooding the cylinder, so your light will stop blinking if your issue is spark or ignitor related.

Just filled an empty system and was approx 900ml with UK brakes and reservoir full afterwards, posting for anyone searching in the future as you already have a bob on answer

Nice job Krimi, I've just done a similar scale build and can appreciate the attention to detail. Great job! Enjoy that, a fun decade of trouble free hooning ahead Curious on what you did to restore the door cards. They look great. Did you remove the full skin and start from there?

Found. Thanks evinX

As title, thanks.

To help with the spring compress it in a vice and loop some fishing line around it, when it's assembled cut the line.

My reply from MVP for anyone also sourcing a condenser: In stock, no, backordered 90 days. But not discontinued, or at least it wasn't last month as I ordered 2 of them and Denso confirmed my order. Since the lines that mount to the back of the condenser to the drier are also NLA from Toyota I will try to order the lot from Keron.

I am pretty confident that no TT FFIM fits on NA heads auto or otherwise. Keep the comb over manifold, looks cool on NA-T imo

Oh that's a sight for sore eyes!! Thanks a bunch for that link mwilkinson! I ventured onto a supra facebook group in wild hopes of sourcing one, never again. Full of mad heads All that leaves me needing is the pipework and hardware that bolts to the back of the condenser. I'll drop Keron a line

Cheers for that news rider, I was losing hope with all the sites listing as discontinued and posted about 4 wanted ads here. Nice to know that they should be available again sometime. Good news! Still hopeful for the slim chance I get lucky and snag one before:)

Really trying to avoid having to retro fit a condenser from another vehicle. Even the pipework / brackets alone that are mounted to the back of the AC rad would be useful to me at this stage.

Sorry to hi-jack, what size coolers are we capable of fitting behind the side vents in the stock front bumpers? After seeing your pic shaz I thought you could save me some legwork. I was after gearbox cooler on the rhs and engine oil on the lhs. Also, PM sent about a few of your parts Trd-1. Cheers.

Sold to me, thanks!

Do you regularly break cars blythmrk?

AC radiator needed - thanks.

Valve cover washers (90210-07001) x 16, £28 shipped. - 4 sets available 1 x RHS Mirror Glass (87931-14590), £50 shipped Original and new Toyota parts. I am posting from Malta, there are chances of delays, pre-madness things use to arrive in about 5 days to the UK. I'd expect to wait up to a couple of weeks unless Royal mail can clear the backlog sooner. Cheers.

I thought i'd check if I can free up some of your garage space before I order these for my build. For reference my cars is a NA+T non vvti, A340e, AEM v2 Needed: Blow off valve IAT sensor Wideband sensor Oil catch can (alternatively was looking at Ford oem cans as a reliable option) Oil sandwich plate with thermostat Oil cooler Transmission cooler AC condensor and drier Coil packs Spark plugs Bell housing inspection hole plug Crank pulley - tracks only Toyota FIPG black LHS mirror glass 18x ECU pins Good condition firewall Hood heat shield material Cheers!

I have just about finished a factory reset on my engine loom. I am installing an AEM v2, assuming the car was stock, any extra wires I should be passing before I close up the loom? 1) For the map sensor I will use the old factory map wiring. 2) For IAT I will use the wiring from the old probe on the stock airbox. 3) For coilpacks, I will pass 6 wires from coilpack location to ECU for pins 52-57 on AEM I can't think of anything else but brain fog describes my situation well after looking at wiring for hours. Cheers all! Factory inline crimps, very nice, I must equip my garage with these and the proper tool, I drooled when I saw these. Birds nest, removing all joints and unpicking the DTA piggyback.