tayr

Sky insurance mirror no claims bonus

Looks great mate Does that Defi boost gauge need a separate unit to run it ? Or does it just work on its own like a normal gauge? I would go for the aem one but it only reads in psi

i think his name was 214supra on here

how about the M3, M4?

Also interested in the plate lol! Pm me if you would like to sell If you are buying an R8 it has to be the V10 in my opinion

12,000 miles a year garage queen

When you say healthy, how healthy is healthy

For info I was watching a 1999, 106km Grade 4 Car last night. It sold this morning for what would be £40k here again

Whole bonnet would be like £350 - for the sake of it i'd go somewhere else and get the whole thing done.

Park up next to one and rev hard when a prius goes through

Hi Lewis, You can buy these from Toyota still btw iirc - however they are quite expensive.

I'll take the Aerial if Sheefa doesn't want

I recently used Torque GT and they were fantastic - speak with Darren, he should be able to give you a good idea on what it might cost but Rider is right - the market is crazy now they are US import legal. I follow someone on youtube who is based out in Japan (garage defend) and i believe their 93-95 SZ are like $15k USD before shipping

the B58 engine is so tuneable aswell so will be very interesting to see how a little remap and downpipe will fair

It’s all guesswork however as the cars get older and harder to find it usually does have an effect on the market.

Hi all Does anyone know where I can get / can anyone make me some new stickers for my GT-7s? I’m planning to get the wheels mirror polished but can’t find replacement stickers About 100mm long 11mm heigh [ATTACH=CONFIG]232325[/ATTACH]

Lmao they really let it down!

I just imported a white 96 from them. It took me around a year I think to find one. Obviously I had been watching the prices that good quality Supras are going for in Japan and I really think you’ll struggle to pay less than 35k delivered here now. Most calculated to be around the mid-late thirties mark. I even saw a grade 4 completely stock sell for over 40k delivered here. That’s without any work being done or any margin I really wanted to be the first UK owner so I didn’t mind paying s bit extra. I didn’t get to see this car while up there but they did speak of how immaculate it was

How come you sold the skyline ?

Thank you mate If an admin want's to move this into the guides section and sticky it that would be cool

Hi All, Was surprised i couldn't find anything on how to fit the front splitter so i thought i'd write a little how to. The job took me about 12 hours to complete due to the nuts spinning which i'll explain later. If i had this tutorial it would have probably taken an hour. Tools Needed: -10mm Socket -Something to lie on -Drill and 6mm drill bit (for the new splitter) -Heat Gun or Direct Sunlight -Potentially new M6 x 20mm T Bolts (depending on condition of current hardware) M6 Hex/Flanged Nuts (depending on condition of current hardware) ** I actually bought these https://bit.ly/2MdWtQ6 as they were all i could find** -WD-40 -Jack and Axle Stands -Patience.. Lots and lots of patience. Step 1: On the underside of the splitter you will see 11 nuts. Spray all of these liberally with WD-40, as they have been on the car for some time you may find they either sheer off when trying to undo them, or the hammerhead bolt on top starts to spin round. (This is a nightmare but will happen on some) Step 2: (Optional) Remove Both Headlights - unplug the bulb connections and undo 3 x 10mm Bolts holding these in place. To get to the drivers side one you need to remove the Airbox (some air filters may give you enough space). Wiggle the headlights out and set them to one side. The reason for this (which i only found out after) is because the splitter is held on by Hammerhead bolts that have been tack welded into the top retainer. Due to age these become loose meaning that the bolt just spins widening the bracket, and getting on the other end of it to keep it from moving is a right PITA!. This gives you access to the top of the bolts on the corners easily, which will allow you to hold these still while removing the nut below (see picture). In terms of the middle, you can sort of get your hand in the right places. . Step 3: Jack the car up - this makes it easier to get underneath it and allow you more room Step 4: Using the 10mm socket, undo all 11 nuts, as before, if they start to spin, put a spanner or adjustable on the top of the nuts to try to stop them from spinning. Take off the bottom retainer and put to one side - you will need this later. (it's in 3 pieces - corners, and middle) Step 5: Start by Lowering the Splitter down, and screw the nuts on a tad just to stop the top retainer and bolts from coming up through the bottom of the bumper. I lubed up the bolts/nuts i could use, and where i couldn't i ordered new T Bolts online (link above) and slotted them in place and even oiled up the new threads. Step 6: Take your new splitter out and leave it in direct sunlight for an hour or two, or use a hot air gun to make it a little more malleable. The Polyurethane splitters are actually quite thick so trying to maneuver them round the contour of the bumper is a little tough so you need another pair of hands. Be careful not to leave the heat in one spot for too long Step 7: If you try and offer up the splitter onto the bolts now, you may find (depending on supplier) that it won't slide over the current bolts. Or the holes on the ends might not line up true. If this is the case; Take a 6mm drill bit or similar out and make the holes a little wider. Also, due to the body of the bolt, you may find it does not allow it to drop low enough into the splitter to sit flush against the bumper if you don't make the holes bigger (picture of bolt for reference). So just use the drill bit as a means to spread the hole a little bigger. But play it by ear.. Step 8: Once all bolts are correctly in place and hanging from the bumper, lift Splitter in place one nut at a time and make sure each bolt goes all the way through into the splitter so it sits flush against the bumper. Be careful not to push too hard as the whole top retainer will move with it. You can support the top if your hand can get to it. Step 9: Once you are happy that the splitter will sit flush against the bottom of the bumper (as in no gaps), place the bottom retainer onto the bottom of the splitter (by now you should have the bolt going through the top retainer, bumper, splitter and bottom retainer), then you can work your way from one end to the other securing each bolt, you may have to force the splitter a little bit, as like i said, they are quite tough. Step 10: Lower the jack, put your headlights back in (if removed), put the airbox back in (if removed) and go and have a cup of tea and admire your work. P.S. This is the first tutorial i've made so if i've missed anything please let me know.

i paid £250 for one a couple weeks back - did i overpay? Probably, but did i want it - yes!