SUPRA4EVA

The ones with the cut outs for rear markers - any condition.

I might have no choice unfortunately, there's no one that will send it to me, I've asked many supplies. Apparently a Toyota dealer can do it but they seem clueless when you email them about it. I'd have to travel quite a bit to get to one...sure it's the last thing I could try but I can't see them being much use in person either. These shirt and ties are never clued up about anything you ask them. As far as OEM windshields, I see two types: a "BLUE" and a "BLUE W(TOPSHADE)". What's the difference, is it the black dots around the edge?

2.5" x 3.5" one

No one is willing to sell me a windshield and I need one. If they get imported somehow without damage, surely they can be courier'd the last 100 or so miles... Anyone had one imported direct?

Yeah still not charging (pulley is intact and marked). I no longer get a Battery light on the dash at all, nor the Engine light...and diagnostics doesn't work either. I had a hand with a few checks (Ref 1995 Electrical book: Charging P68 and Power Source P56) to check the Alternator/Charging System fuses. 120V ALT, ALT-S, IGN, GAUGE all seen to get power too and really can't find much wrong there. The only other thing is to check is the 3-pin plug but the Alternator will need to be pulled out again to unplug it. If the 3-pin plug is fine, could it possible be a bad alternator? Also could someone post a photo of what lights are meant to show on the dash during ignition please? PS what is a Combination Meter??

Moved the car somewhere else as I have some stuff to do and decided to double check the battery while running...it's below 12V again. It's not an earth either. It was definitely showing 13V+ the other day so the alternator must be working at least some of the time if it was charging. Electrics is not my strong point so trying to find what's causing this will be a pita.

Pulley seems intact and the black wire was attached to the positive stud in the fuse box, so I removed it...maybe what remains of an old alarm? Checked the battery again and it was charging this time, over 13V ...so maybe it was a bad connection before. But when I took it out I noticed the master warning light and rear tail fault light would flicker, when at lower speeds mainly, 40 and below iirc. Thinking about the rear lights, I did swap out my uk spec to a jdm set and the rear tail fault light does come on during ignition, could that be the issue? Fuse is fine and all rear lights work. Can a disabled active spoiler (via button on dash) cause any issues? It drives fine but I'm quite jumpy after having it break down and when I saw the lights flicker I was panicking in case it breaks down again

I'll give it a more thorough look this weekend.

So I got a new alternator fitted and all the lights on the dash went out when I started the engine and it all seemed good but once I measured the voltage across the battery it was reading below 12V...so the battery is still not being charged for some reason. I looked at the 120A fuse but I can't tell if it's faulty, the wire looks solid, I do have a black wire loose in the fuse box though. New alternator and battery but there's clearly something still wrong. I will be doing some work on it soon so will investigate as I'll have access to tools but any suggestions?

Yeah I did and it was below 12V. It's out now, trying to get a new one.

pm sent

I decided to take back the car and wait until I can look at it myself, really not keen on someone else working on it. A new battery was however fitted and it starts fine and drives but while running I still have the following lights - left to right: Battery - red, Rear Lights - amber, Triangle - red, Brake System - red, Low Oil Level - amber. I'll have to get the fault codes off it first thing and will be looking at changing the alternator as a new battery and it's discharging... But all these dash lights on currently (especially lights, brakes, oil level) will they clear after the car is back to "normal operation"? And I've definitely got a rattle from under where the prop shaft is when I rev the engine so that will need looking at too.

Thanks guys. I'd be all over it but as I have nowhere to work on it, it's still sitting at the garage that recovered the car. Annoyingly the active spoiler ended up being in the down position and it was heartbreaking watching the winch cable pushing on it but it wasn't damaged. I've never had to check fault codes yet but I believe it's like on the MR2 Mk2...paperclip and watch the blinks. The alternator does sound plausible, it could have been overworked every time it had to change this battery up after long periods of no use. PS are OEM alternators and batteries still available new?

This is the first time I've had the car out in a while. Driving around for 30 mins no problem, cursing along, giving it some boost here and there. Then I saw a good inline stretch and put my foot down working from 2nd up to 3rd or 4th (5-6K range) when the car lost power and became sluggish. The whole dash lit up, so I pulled over to have a look around. Got the car started again, had a listen and a look under, all seemed okay but there was a flutter coming from under the middle of the car when revving the engine, like an exhaust leak... The lights on dash when started were: yellow - oil level (which was fine) and yellow - rear light fault (my lights were dim on dash and rear ambers I was told) red triangle (this can be a bunch of things). Tank was 1/2 full. But decided to take it easy and head back but not long after it started loosing power again, chugging along and dash lights getting dimmer and dimmer until there was some clicking around the dash (solenoids I presume) and the engine died. Was not able to start it after but the starter did go. Once recovery came the car was started but the lights mentioned above were still on so it got towed away to a garage. The car has always been reliable and this is the first time this has happened. I know battery is over 10 years old and it discharges fast these days if you play round with lights/windows but it always had enough to start the engine as long as I kept it unplugged when not in use for a while. It was actually the next thing on my list to get this year. Could the battery be a cause, could it affect the fuel pump or other electrics when ruining or even the alternator? Car's all stock, that includes the turbo setup, only has an aftermarket cat back with the 1st cat still present. This is all the info I have, I had no choice but to drop it off at a garage, I'd rather be looking at it myself but my hands are tied. I don't know what the diag codes are.

Looking for a set of door speaker gilles, with good fabric.

Looking for one of these, if anyone has a spare one.

Some say the ARBs are the same diameter on TT & N/A, some say they are different. Can anyone confirm if there's indeed a difference and if the facelift are also different?

As someone who did the whole of my MR2 in the past, I'd be up for some dirty suspension work to change out all the bushes as they just about look and feel like they are 30 years old lol I'm sure they were refreshed here and there but still the car feels pretty tired and sh1t tbh, all the bushes are cracked, arms are covered in thick rust and the brakes are not good either. But I'm seeing you can't really buy any OEM bushes and the only option is to buy all new arms so thousands to spend! Are there any aftermarket kits these days that will give a nice OEM like ride, I'm not looking for a stiff/race setup, the roads are bad enough as is but just want to get the car feeling fresh and flow along the road. Saying that I'm not totally against going all new as it would save me a lot of time and energy overhauling this stuff myself as I'm sure as soon as I start I'll find more things wrong or need changing.

PM'd about door card & tail lights

Anyone on here ever use this? The oil I was using has vanished so I'm searching...again lol or there's RP Synchromax which I never used but considering as it was recommend in the past but that seems to change like the weather!

That's a great write up! Yes the electric folding ones were pretty straight forward when I did them, just gotta watch to unclip the terminals properly. Even the manual mirrors, in crap condition are so expensive now, it will be a pricey experiment lol

Thanks for relaying this information. Hope he's doing better.

Is there a way for removing the internals out of standard wing mirror and preserving all the parts? I looked at various posts but they just tend to break the internals to free the housing off as the spring won't budge apparently.

I'm a sucker for the USDM look. Wonder how much this will fetch...

Good to know, never heard of megazip.