Doughie

Gav I believe standard UK alarm is a Scorpion alarm. The precise model is probably now discontinued, but I do believe the alarm is Scorpion. Certainly the alarm fob is a Scorpion one. To get the precise model try ringing Scorpion (look 'em up on the web i guess) OR try Toyota Technical on : 01737 367 888

Phil What's your opinion of the effect of the HKS Trac removal kit, pls ? is it noticeable in any way ? thinking about doing this now, as i have RLTC installed (had a bit of a moment yesterday on the 10% setting, even in the dry ....... whhhoooaaahh!!)

REDUCING the value of these two settings will tend to make any tight-corner misfire worse. Graham - you should try incerasing these values by 100 or 150. But first, change your minimum rpm from 800 to 2000 (or maybe 2500).

Graham just read your DAT file. I can tell you one thing that is WAY wrong : You have got your "Minimum RPM" set to 800 !!!!!!!! Change it to 2000 or 2500. this value is the minimum value, below which, cut does not happen. Stock value is 2000rpm. Martin Fahie and I are running 2500rpm. this could well be your problem with the car cutting in tight corners. (Your "Min.Dif. in wheelspeeds" seem fine). (Edited by Doughie at 12:59 pm on Nov. 23, 2001)

Graham / Phil This situation is covered in the RL TC manual as supplied with the system. There is a troubleshooting section, and one of the issues is exactly the one GRaham is describing. The fix is also given. By memory (my RLTC manual is at home) to INCREASE both of the following two parameters *by* approximately "150" : "Min. Dif. in Wheelspeeds DRY" "Min. Dif. in Wheelspeeds WET" that should fix it. I will check the manual tonight but i believe that's what you need to do. My car does not cut out at all in tight turns. I really don't think that you need to re-set your wheel diameters. I would try jacking the car up & measuring them accurately with a metal tape measure.

er, cash-rich time-poor young Leon.

er, Rich old Leon.

Paul What you could do is just ignore the filter, just drain the oil and refill, and if Leon is going to do a full service in a month or two then get him to change the oil AND filter then. far far better than not changing the oil for another 2 months.

Gav you're a genius !

Given that the rear and front traces on Graham's car are not radically far out, i would think it's the wheel diameters that are a bit out. A way to check the actual tyre circumference (and therefore calculate the diameter) is to use a metal tape to measure the centre-line of the tyre. (you could take the wheel off the car but not necessary - you can just jack the wheel up to get it off the ground to get the tape underneath). i've given up guessing on ABS sensors....

that shouldn't be happening. the traces should all coincide. Must be one of two things: 1) ABS sensors have different tooth count front to rear OR 2) (more likely) you've entered your Driven and Reference diameters wrong. By my calculations, they should be (assuming you didn't make a typo) : REAR (Driven) : 628mm FRONT (Reference) : 678mm (are you sure your rears are 30% profile??) (Edited by Doughie at 10:58 am on Nov. 22, 2001)

Graham - any more news on why your 4 wheel traces are not all aligned exactly ? Phil - did you manage to check out the rear ABS sensor to see if it's the same tooth-count as the front one ?

Graham Are you sure they're not just going to nick your code and save themselves some development costs ? cos that's theft (assuming you hjave intellectual copyright on your app or whatever). don't trust anyone when it comes to business and money. that's my advice.

Graham Are you sure they're not just going to nick your code and save themselves some development costs ? cos that's theft (assuming you hjave intellectual copyright on your app or whatever). don't trust anyone when it comes to business and money. that's my advice.

hang on Graham. - i emailed Justin 2 days ago saying "i want a GPS - sort me a discount" and he sugeested (obviously) getting a group buy together. I ahve done some research into it. Looks like a Garmin Etrex or GPS12 or a Magellan unit. What's your preferred max. price ? I may post up a thread on GPS to see how much interest we can get.

that's the calculation i used too to get my numbers for my 17" rims. In fact i have a "spare" 17" tyre off the rim, and measured the circumference and therefore calcualted the diamater and it was VERY close to my calculated value.

Front tyres on stock 17's : 643mm Rear tyres on stock 17's : 636mm. Diamtere difference between brand new tyres and tyres bordering on illegal = 12mm. Phil - it's *just* a possibility that the Supra has a *different* number of ABs sensor teeth front to rear. do you reckon it's worth checking to make sure ? Graham - what front and rear wheel diameters have you got set up on your RL TC ? and what tyre sizes are you using ?

OK folks, i'm looking at the trace in the screen-shot and i've got a question here (with regds RL TC, not the app in dev !): when rear-wheel slip occurs over the threshold value at which injection-cut happens, WHY does this show as an RPM drop ? If you think about it, RL TC moderates the engine power by cutting one or more cylinders per engine cycle. That does not imply an RPM cut. It implies that there are simply *fewer* cylinders firing PER engine revolution. Hence i would not expect engine revs to drop like it shows on the trace as this implies that the car is actually *slowing down*. unless there was hard-cut i wouldn't really expect engine revs to drop. I might expect the rate at which engine RPM is climbing to slow or level off though. hmm. I'm probably wrong here, but i'd like someone to come back with a lucid explanation on this. (if poss!) Moving on, reading the RL TC manual, there are several bits of text that imply that below a certain wheel rpm, the ABS does not generate a reliable signal. Maybe that is why the default minimum road-speed before the RL TC will do anything is 14kmh. (=about 8mph). (I don't quite understand why this may be so as i think as for *braking* the ABS will need to keep sending clear data to the ABS ECU on how the front wheel RPM compares with rear wheel RPM). For example on page 57 of the RLTC manual, is a picture of the TRACLOG prog. in action, and has the following text : "The above screen shows that two of the sensors are being picked up earlier than the other two. This is due to the rear having more pick up points than the front. This is not a problem unless the two sensors that pick up later are not registering before 14kmh." Graham your enahanced app is shaping up nicely by the looks of things. My comments : 1) TRACLOG has in the lower half of the screen 5 values : the 4 wheel speeds, and the engine rpm. This is useful info. Will you app have this ? 2) TRACLOG has a vertical bar which is user-moveable so that you can read off the wheel speeds and engine RPM at that point of the trace. again, useful to see what happened at what road speed and engine rpm. 3) What is the maximum time period that your app (and TRACLOG for that matter) can handle ? If it is more than a minute or so then the scale will be sufficiently compressed to require, potentially, some sort of zoom function. any chance ? Or will the graph scroll left and right ? i'm happy to Beta-test it if you require it. cheers (Edited by Doughie at 8:51 pm on Nov. 21, 2001)

stick to your guns ajefford. you do have a warranty so insist it is all fixed under the warranty ! you do seem to have had more than your fair share of niggles for sure.

Gareth I have seen somewhere a URL which has a pretty good guide to the DSBC and how to set it up etc. I can try to find it if you want.

The oil change is simple as any other car, more or less. What is NOT easy is the filter change. I did it, but to get it out from above requires unbolting the PAS steering reservoir, and even then it's a tight squeeze to get to the filter. Plus it's at quite an angle so the old oil spews out everywhere. Plus it was on too tight to undo by hand so i had to buy a one-handed filter wrench. Plus it's nasty to get back on. er.... So yeah the oil change is easy (might need to trolley jack the car up in order to make space to get your old oil receptacle underneath), but I can't be arsed to change the filter again myself, and will leave that to someone else. It's a surprisingly small filter and doesn't hold much oil.

Steve Yeah but sorry not convinced by that. Might be a torque-sensing LSD..... ...... BUT if one wheel is spinning relatively freely, and the other is getting "5 times close to zero torque" that can't be true as where is all the engine power GOING ?? whole point of an LSD is that it stops one wheel spinning madly-fast and spinning away all the engine power, by locking or nearly-locking the driven axle so that BOTH wheels will have to spin and therefore this means that it generally delays the point of spin-up to when BOTH wheels lose grip and spin. = more straight-line thrust and grip. Hence Hardhead's comment about the black lines. A car without LSD will leave one black line due to the wheel with least grip spinning merrily away, while the other wheel grips (more or less). LSD should mean that you either get NO black lines or TWO black lines. IMHO...

What is the maximum % difference in rotational speed that the Toyota LSD will allow ? If no-one knows the exact figure, can someone suggest the approximate percentage. thanks

I agree. we shouldn't make a mountain out of a mole-hill here (or even "accuse" RL of anything), but simply ask RL why their system came pre-loaded with no cut tables, 4-cylinder car etc. If a buyer wasn't into the technical side of it, they'd just give it to their local trusted car electrician/mechanic and he'd just fit it and nobody would be any the wiser that the settings were wholly wrong .... except that the system wouldn't work properly at all.

By the way, I assume now that someone has supplied to Ash / Justin a decent DAT file for loading into his RL TC unit ?? If not, let me know and i can email one over. We don't want Justin ending up in a hedge somewhere in the rain.