dazla100

Due to my recent rebuild I will be no longer be needing the clutch and flywheel for my 5speed w58 gear box. It had only been on for around 400 miles so still basicly brand new. Highly recommend it for any na or na-t owner as it made a huge improvement on the cars acceleration. As you can see from the image everything is still in perfect condition and looking for £380.

Lol what?

SOLD....

5 speed w58 gearbox for sale will come complete with mount the box is in good working order and has done 90k miles open to offers and buyer be responsible for collection or delivery. Anyone questions please feel free to ask

Does anyone have the intake and exhaust valve cover they would like to sell. Many thanks

Thank you chris do you mind to explain on how you take the valve springs out when the head is on so i can replace it with a soft spring and measure it Thank you mate

Am I right in saying the clearence between the valve and the piston is .100" for exhaust and .80 for intake?

The intake valves are alot bigger than the exhaust valves they seem to sit in the recess fine and don't make any contact outside of that recess

This is a picture of the pistons I have ensured that the deeper valve pocket on the piston is on the intake side due to the ge having big intake valves and small exhaust valves. Thank you

I've been building my 2jz-ge engine and I have installed 2jz gte forged cp pistons and manley roads and keeping the ge head I've installed a hks 1.2mm head gasket and after installing the cam shafts at tdc I've noticed that when you turn the intake and exhaust cam shaft they stop at a certain point obviously the valves hitting the piston on cylinder 6. Is this normal I always thought the 2jz engines where non interference engines. I've taken a picture to show you at which location the 2 camshafts are at before piston to valve meet the white markers on the cam gears represent the tdc marker. Any help would be greatly appreciated before I carry on my build I'm just paranoid that will cause issues upon start up Many thanks

Thanks for the advise mate Lee at srd has recommended going with the stock 1.3mm

Okay will do thank you

I have a 2jz-ge engine which I have recently started to rebuild in doing so when I removed the head the top of the block was pitted. As I will be installing a turbo in the hope to achieve 500 bhp I decided to purchase some 86.5mm cp pistons with the compression ratio of 8.5:1. I sent the block away to the engineering company who bored and skimmed the block. The issue I have which is extremely frustrating is the engineering company doesn't know how much they had taken off on the skim even tho o asked them to write it down so I can order the correct head gasket. After weeks of argumens with them they asked me to find out the the measurements of the block so they can measure mine and tell me how much was taken off. Is there anyone on this page who can advise me on where to go with this as I cannot find the precise mesurments on a 2jz block and I'm pretty certain I won't be able to. I don't wanna just run a stock gte 1.3mm head gasket on it as I could risk damaging the pistons or even the valves.

Have you a oil level sensor by any chance?

Don't suppose you have a oil level sensor located in the sump that I can buy off you?