pete.osborne69

I have just done mine and could do with some clarification, I took out the the master cylinder and res, I emptied the old oil into a 2 litre milk bottle after this I gave it a clean as the oils was BLACK! (Thanks to previous owner not doing any servicing) After this I reconnect the res to the master cylinder and attached back to the car filled with brake fluid and then bled the master cylinder After this I then reconnected the brake lines and started to bleed the brake in the following order Near side rear Off side rear Near side front Off side front I got all of the air out of the line except for the near side front all I kept getting was very very tiny air bubbles (hard to see) Anyways I tightened the nipple and placed the wheels back on and took her for a spin Now I can't remember what the brakes felt like before so I can't really compare them or exposing it for that matter but I just don't think that they seem right (possibly them really tiny air bubbles, not sure) but the car does stop fine I think, I just took it straight to 120 and hit the brakes and it stopped (thank god) Would you say that they were fine or not its the first time I have ever done anything like this and just not sure I bought 2 litres of brake fluid and used just less than 1 bottle doing the full system and according to the oils thread it states that the dry capacity is ~1.5L's now apart from the master cylinder I just pushed out the old oil with the new, and some of the new went in the same milk bottle so I would assume that I should have at least used 1 full bottle but all the fluid is coming put clear I'm not sure if I have done this correctly or not any advise would be helpful Pete

Let me know if you need any help

I can write a guide with pics if it's needed but I don't have any images of the wires in the car after I connected the mirrors although it should be too hard to take the dash, kick boards and door cards off if need be what 10 mins work for me that could save someone the confusion if I write a guide lol

So now I have 2 mirrors for sale that still work with the mirror controls but doesn't have demisters or a folding motor, which tbh I never knew that my mirrors had a demister built in, but I had wondered why they cleared up rather quickly when it was cold outside, I did have the rear demister on as well

Not according to plan after I connected them to the car loom I realised that I didn't have any wire with the terminals to go into the back of the male connector for the dash loom so I took them back out and connected both wires from either side together Orange with orange Grey with grey In my case After that I cut into the spare door loom I had to get 2 lengths of cable with the terminals on 1 for live which I connected to my radio live And 1 for earth with I connected to the earth point behind the drivers footwell After that I cut off 2 thinner cables with terminals and crimped 1 to the orange and 1 to the grey wire After that I just slid the terminals on to the back for the male spades on the switch using this picture I had to swap around the two cables for the mirrors until the mirrors folded with the correct position of the switch Once everything worked I just tucked it all away out of view Oh and I nearly forgot I blew the radio fuse as I pulled the switch a little hard and the live disconnected and hit another wire lol

All done and dusted, finally fitted the switch and everything works as it should, just need to respray the mirrors to match the car when I get chance

Just as a thought would it be possible to wire it to the locks instead of a swith so when the car is unlocked by alarm or key that it would do it automatically which would save me the time in cutting a hole in the dash or buying a new dash

OK so it's exactly the same procedure for the passenger's side mirror I can confirm on the mirrors I have fitted both sides work as the should, the mirror adjustment works all four ways and the demisters come on when you turn on the rear window demister All I need to do now is fit the switch to allow both mirrors to fold in and out Does any one know how I can wire up the switch here's some info on what I have 2 cables from each mirror not connected but previously used for the fold action ( not standard in my car) hence the need for a diagram or help I assume there will be a live and an earth to the switch On this swith there is 4 pins I will also assume that 2 of the pins are for the mirrors 1 cable from each mirror to 1 of the terminals and the same for the last cable from both mirrors Sorry if this does not make any sense Will I need to use a fuse at all or some relays And which way round does everything get wired to the switch Thanks in advance I will try to write a guide once everything is complete and working correctly

From the picture above I compared the connector with the one in mine and bot the orange and the pink wires are missing everything else is the same Now both of these two cables run all the way to the connector for the mirror and correspond to the correct location for the motor to fold the mirrors so these are the two cables I would need to add to the door loom Does anyone have something similar to this but for the wiring on the inside of the car that goes from the loom to the switch and wherever else it might go if not I will get a hold / buy the loom from the scrappy where I got the mirrors This is only for the drivers mirror I haven't looked at the passenger's one yet!

I'm just cutting into the gromet of the door loom that came with the folding mirrors so I can trace the wires to the plug and check them against mine But when I get to fitting the switch I'm not sure how I would do that

I knew they had different wiring looms on the inside the car which I why I wanted a look Are you talking about the wiring for the doors as I assumed that would be the same except for the location of the pins that connect to the loom on the inside of the car I would cut into the mirror but the folding one is closed so I would be able to fit it temp while I sort out the wiring

OK I have them both apart and I know what I need to do Looking at the above 2 images you should be able to see which is the heated one, the other is a folding one Now the only way I can do this is putting new cables into the folding one and attach them to the plug connector directly as mine is heated as standard and should save me some time in wiring After that I get a 2 pin connector and attach the previously connected cables to that for the folding action Now for the next stage I would need to see a inside wiring loom to find out where the two cables for the folding action leeds to and wire them up exactly the same And then in theory all should works as designed If you have your heated mirror apart could you send me a pic of the inside as where the neck is on middle there is a massive spring and I can't get the bottom off to remove the 2 needed cables for the heater Thanks

well im not sure how it would work with the wiring on your side but i know for mine it should be as simple as adding 2 extra wires to each mirror and then to the switch, i hope I will post some pictures if i can work out how to do this as i go along

Did you have any luck with this Allen, i have heated mirrors as standard and just bought some folding ones, then realised i can't have both and as we speak i'm currently dismantling one mirror to have a look at the wiring and then will do the same on the other However i can't seem to get the actual mirror of the clips itself as i don't want to break either of them P.S. sorry for old thread revival, but im not creating a new one if theres someone else looking into it (or was)

Thanks I will have a look for some good quality jubilee clips also another quick question I am getting some electric folding mirrors later today which comes with the switch would I need the wiring loom to go with it as my car doesn't have them as standard Thanks

Thanks for the quick reply Keron, what type of pipe will I need silicone? I only ask because the garages near me are not that good in terms of what I can get a hold of or ordered, I believe I can only get petrol or diesel hose and will jubilee clips do the job of holding it tight or not I have got some jubilee clips attached to the rear coolant pipes that go into the bulkhead and they don't seem to have a great seal (very slow leak) but I can't seem to find any of the original clips anywhere for sale Thanks again

After I parked up today I heard a hissing noise checked under the bonnet and there was coolant spraying every where from the top small pipe under the turbo pipe which leads to the top coolant pipe

I'd come, but I'm working early hours of the morning

Payment sent, Thank You again

I'll have 2 of each mug please Pete

Name Pete Osborne Location Barnsley, South Yorkshire Spec Stock 1994 J-Spec TT auto Pics

You all have valid points I think I will leave them and tuck the stock amp loom under the metal bar under the carpet to keep it out of sight

OK as the title says I need help / advise removing some stock wiring But here's a little background as to why I had a heater matrix leak (part on the way) and have removed everything from the inside of the car (and I mean every thing) its a shell with wiring and some heater related stuff Also drivers seat will not go back and forth due to a grinded down cog Here's the story so far Now as I have an aftermarket setup and a lot of wires due to having a amp I want to do a full clean install of all my wiring to keep it clean and decluttered, some people will argue that this is pointless and that I shouldn't bother, please don't I know this is / can be a PITA at times but I want this done. I originally had my amp under the drivers seat will be moved to the boot I have run brand new speaker cable to all of my speakers, the door speakers were a pain. All of the cables run down the right side of the car for the right speakers and down the left for the speakers on the left. Now for the bit I need help on I want to remove the stock speaker cables from the car entirely as they are not in use and I done need them and it will save a very little bit of space but I'm a bit of a perfectionist Also the stock amp has been removed so I want to remove that wiring as well The electric seat doesn't fully work and will be getting replaced so I want to remove all of the cables for the drivers seat and seatbelt The drivers seat only has electric adjustment no heaters Now the problem I am facing is will any of this wiring go into anything else e.g. I believe the open door light/warning goes into the seat cabling and not directly to the iso at the end (or so I believe / what it looks like) I know this will take time and I've got time and ideally want to get this done before the heater matrix arrives. Also will I be able to remove any fuses etc. I am not good at reading wiring diagrams either but I know how to follow a cable and remove it from the iso and the next one all the way back to a fuse Many thanks in advance hope some one can help in some way

Well for me the traction control kicks in exactly when I need it to as for breaking i tend to break then release the break then release and so on so i have never experienced the abs in a supra however in my previous car (toyota corolla) it did make breaking in the wet somewhat unbearable kind of did the opposite as the wheels locked up and put me in a slide while the pedal was thumping under my foot, which in turn i turned to the above method and it felt a lot better and i seemed to be able to break quicker and harder without the lock up of the wheels