pete.osborne69

Thanks mate, and tbh when I started the project originally I had no idea where all the wiring was, it was mainly a process due to elimination. Most of the wiring was guess work at first using a multimeter I was able to narrow the wires down to 4 in the drivers side kick panel (loom coming out of the door) Chris confirmed that I only needed 2 from that plug (door lock control module) From a couple of threads on 2 different forums I found out that the door motor was behind the dash next to the glove box on the passengers side ( Chris later told me that this is where they were and which wires the were) And to be fair there was a lot more to it as you can see from the thread and Chris helped a lot and also I learned a lot from Chris. It is something that that's worth learning in the end, due to all of the possibilities you have when a relay is involved, don't get me wrong I know very little about them, and it takes me a while to understand how the flow of current works just from a diagram, but that's defiantly needed it makes it easier to grasp how the relay actually does its job Personally I would have a go at fitting it yourself if you can, but you will probably need a few days. I tried to do it myself and was getting nowhere quick I think I spent 3 1/2 days working most of the stuff out and still needed help but once you know where everything is fitting it is simple. If you do decide to do it your self I left the alarm system on the gear box stripped the wire insulation back on the wires and slotted the wire in with the pins on the connector blocks (temp) Reconnected the battery and then tested it when I was happy I move on to the next ones and so on, takes time but its the satisfaction at the end of it. If you need help I will be able to help somewhat in how I did mine (still fresh in my head) I remember where all the connections are made and Chris clearly states the wiring colours needed. Once happy with how it all worked and what wire went to what I wrote it down on a piece of paper and used clips to connect the cables so I didn't have to cut into the loom (except the coil cable which I used a male and female connector on in case I needed to reverse it) Let me know what you decide Pete

So if I understand the whole diagram correctly it works in 2 ways 1) Alarm Off and key in ignition The switch in the alarm remains open After the key is turned the circuit is made to the resistor and power goes through finishing the circuit and allowing the car to start 2) Alarm On and key in ignition The switch in the alarm is now closed After the key is turned this create a circuit to the relay and powers the coil pulling the switch in the opposite way which triggers the siren and prevents the car from starting Thank you for the diagrams and explanations on how they would work Also I never thought about putting the bonnet pin there I have just finished fitting the bonnet struts and was going to place the pin where the original bonnet holder was Then I changed my mind and decided to drill a hole through the rubber bump stop putting the pin in there (almost hidden) and putting a metal plate under the bump stop to allow connection to the car (otherwise it doesn't make a connection) However this did not work so I just put the wire to the body of the car locked it and took it off and nothing. Checked what color wire was connected (white) Double checked the connection and nothing Dunno why this is happening? I finally fired up the car today (first time in 2 week) And blew the fuse to the alarm (15 amp) Fitted a new fuse set up the alarm features that I wanted on, tested them all worked fine as they should Switch off the engine, got out went to lock the car and nothing, checked the fuse and yet again it had blown So replaced the fuse again checked and double checked all of the wiring (soldiered together) then rewrapped them in insulation tape (for now) will be heat shrunk when I can confirm that everything is working as it should Haven't done anything since, just connected battery unlocked car, fired her up and then locked car so everything seems fine now Could it just be a faulty fuse that came with the alarm and the ones I replaced it with are about 20 years old believe it or not Many thanks again I will have a look at your next post and see if I can understand how it all works from the diagram Thanks Pete

Thanks Chris, I completely agree with you, when thinking about it, I do seem to be going way out into the unknown and I would benefit from doing quite a bit of research not only into relays but understanding wiring diagrams better than what I currently do and not to mention the fundamentals of DC current and a positive or negative circuit Tbh I knew there were 2 lives going to the ignition but I do not know why I am aware that this kind of procedure has issues in regards to steering lock and now a shift lock and currently have no idea how to combat this yet I think once I have my car back together (hopefully by this weekend) I will start my research Also i will look into how the wiring works in the supra before even considering putting a keyless entry in the car And I will start by drawing a wiring diagram of how it should be before anything gets put in motion and then have that checked by someone and have them confirm that I have the skills to do the job before I begin Thanks again for the help and support in all of this hopefully I will have an understanding on how circuits, relays, diagrams and general car electronic systems work the next time I decide to go down a road that requires it Thanks Pete

OK sounds sensible Ill do what research I can before thinking about going any further and see if I can grasp the full fundamentals Did you drill a hole into your car frame to fit the bonnet play n And thanks again for all of your help and patience its appreciated Pete

The switch being a kill switch Or would you need 2 switches 1 for Acc And the other for on And a third (hidden) (security measures)

Or would it be just a lot simpler to connect a live cable to a switch at one end and then to the black and orange switch at the other which then goes up to the start button and when push makes contact with the starter wire?

Yes I think I Understand it, but with the relay working like that what's the point of having a wire connected to the accessory terminal wouldn't it make more sense for it to be connected to that and not the ignition on? This is a bit unrelated but related at the same time in regards to relays If I was to have a keyless push start button with the ignition barrel removed (no steering lock) Using a different relay I would assume I would have To wire 1 of the live wires to pin 86 and 87A Earth out pin 85 And connect pin 30 to a switch which then connected to accessory ? Fitting a keyless push start button is my next job

In regards to my last post i think i now understand how to wire the relay in, correct me if im wrong yelow wire to the alarm box wire from the ignition on switch connects to 87A (middle red wire) and the orange wire and the red wire coming from 30 connects to the coil pack so all i need to do is disconnect the original ignition "on" wire (Black with orange tracer) from the connector block and wire it to the red cable coming from pin 30 on the relay join pin 86 and 87A up to the ignition "on" in the connector block at the bottom of the steering column where the black with orange tracer use to fit and the yellow wire from the alarm to pin 85 on the relay if that makes any sense (having a blonde moment in the above post) thanks again Pete

I think I will leave the boot for now and if you wouldn't mind sending me a PIC of your bonnet pin that would be great As for the relay I think I get the basics going from the diagram and the link you sent me If I understand it correctly I would wire the ignition on to 86 The yellow wire from the alarm up to 85 And a wire that goes from 30 to 86 and 87a Would look something like this Yellow to the alarm and orange to the ignition barrel So when the alarm is armed power comes from the yellow wire into the relay and powers the coil which In turn joins pins 87a and 30 together creating a circuit which prevents the car from starting? This is how I think I understand it -- I get the principal but unsure if I understand the the diagram with the alarm Thanks again Pete

Mk4Gaz how did you do the foot well lights, I've been wanting to do this for a while but wasn't sure whether to buy led strips or make my own, yours looks really nice and bright in the daytime and tbh I can't seem to find anything that goes that bright (not very good at soldiering) so haven't really given any thought to doing it myself

Thanks Chris I have just finished hard wiring everything in and putting the dash back together All I have left is to wire up the bonnet pin and the boot wire. As for the bonnet pin it looks like the white cable I have left attaches to the bottom of the pin via a male pin connector and the 2 nuts grip was her and washers hold it to the car As for the boot wire on the diagram is says -500 amp blue -- trunk Other than that every things good to go Im off to read the link you sent me, to see if I can understand how relays work You also mentioned that the positive trigger could be used in some other ways how do you mean And I cannot thank you enough for all of the help Thanks again Pete

Thanks I will have a look at it once I finish hardwiring the alarm in and no its just a roll up lol Thanks Pete

Hi Chris I had another go at it this morning and all seems fine except the door trigger which you have now fixed for me thanks I have managed to add the parking lights and they work as suppose to How ever not sure what attaching the blue with white tracer wire up to the brake switch will do other than lock and unlock the doors when pressed (some setting on the alarm) would it make more sense to wire it up to the parking brake on the auto box? Also I have a little metal squishy thingy (not very technical I know) might be a bonnet pin how would this be wired up/connected Also I don't have a siren for the alarm was thinking of using the horn if it would work do you know which cable it is? And how do I wire up the relay (no backup battery) Thanks again for all of your help Pete

thanks Chris, i had another play around today with the wiring by connecting directly to the door motor terminals that are hidden behind the passengers glove box right at the top, like it says in the alarm wiring diagram and nothing happens so placed the two cables back. now as i understand from the supra wiring diagram it seems like i have connected to the key lock terminals -- which would probably explain why the doors don't unlock when they are shut (except when the key is in the ignition and switched to on) incase i got any colors mixed up when i wrote the previous post i have amended the post to reflect the changes i made today

1.safcdixon 2.mattp 3. Supra ufo 4. Mclarenross 5. Nezz92 6. JayJay1374 7. Crock 8. Al Massey 9. Hodge 10. pete.osborne69

OK so here's what I have done so far using the wiring diagram from the TSRM and the diagram from the alarm Working from the second image The closest blue connector (bottom) in the drivers kick panel From alarm. -- To car Green. -- Green/yellow Purple. -- White Pink. -- Earthed Orange. -- Earthed Black. -- Removed White. -- Removed Working from the first image using the same connector From alarm. -- to car White. -- Green/red Orange. -- Red/white Using drivers door side pin (took out the bolts to get temp access) From alarm. -- To car Green. -- bottom wire (checked with multi-meter) Using the white connector under the steering column that looks to go to the ignition barrel From alarm. -- To car Black. -- earthed Red. -- red/white Yellow/green. -- pink/blue Yellow. -- Black/yellow I haven't placed in the relay (read a post saying its not needed) As for the rest of the cables coming from the alarm I know where they are going so I haven't wired them up

Yeah as far as I can tell it is just the door locks I will post what I have connected where in a few mins just sorting a few stuff out at home

Remote start is just a luxury if you will but the turbo timer saves buying one and fitting it myself and I thought it might me better being in with an alarm circuit rather that on its own

And at that it's not a insurance approved cat1 alarm

I was originally looking at a Clifford 1 with the remote start and turbo timer built in by the time they had done pricing it up it came to about £450 £500 Inc fitting so with this price I ask how much it would be to fit this crap 1 for the time being. Tbh I only want this fitting until I can afford to spend that amount of money on a alarm system

I went to a place near me and I explained what I had and where I would like it and they said that it's not worth their hassle and that I should do it myself as it would be the better option

I am, I gave it in as a bad job yesterday and will soon be going at it again

Ah fair enough

OK little update I have managed to connect to the door motor Locks and unlocks when the door is open but only locks when the door is closed Going from the pictures above using the first PIC I have wired the orange cable to the blue and red wire in a blue connector in the drivers foot well And wired the orange wire up to the white and red wire in the same connector From the second PIC The green wire is attached to a green and yellow wire The purple wire is connected to a solid white wire Both going into the same blue connector as the other 2 The pink and orange wires are both grounded I assume that the green wire from PIC 1 goes to the far top green wire in the blue connector but I still seem to be having issues All wiring is temporary Any help is appreciated