pete.osborne69

I have looked for a distribution block for the size cable I have but can't seem to find any I was recommended to get 70mm2 battery cable so that's what I went with which is 2/0 in awg Now I can find one that has a 2/0 input but not on the output so would I need to use smaller cable coming from the distribution block to the starter and fusebox Also what's the benefit of having a distribution box, is it that it has a separate fuse for each output or is it just a matter of an easier install Thanks in advance Pete

Where is this big bolt under the wheel as I can't seem to recall one, however I plan on mounting it to where the wheel holder bolt went just find a bolt that fits the hole and attach there, I was originally going to mount it on the back where you have but I'm using that for other earths for the fog light conversion I suppose it could be connected to the black plate that runs from the suspension towards the middle of the bar that runs to either side of the car Not very technical in terms as I can't think of what they're called

I'll stick to the distribution block like you have used as its tried and tested and is the stock like connector from the starter the cable that was attached to underneath the car on the manifold side of the engine?

My fuse box is inside glove box as well however what I was going to do is connect the live that comes from under the engine to the fuse box And another cable from the fuse box to the battery 100A anl fuse near battery I assume this would work perfectly both cables would attach to the bottom of fuse box

Ah thanks this helps I'll order the 8mm ones then as they have been posted in another thread All of the help from everyone is appreciated thanks

Thanks I understand that but won't the bolt be smaller in diameter and the nut on my fuse box is 12mm so the crimp connector needs a hole of 12mm? Thanks again for the help its appreciated

Yeah lol as I've been stripping the car down I had tools everywhere so it was a guess lol but does that mean I will need a crimp connector with a 13mm hole to fit the thread? Thanks again

Thanks I've just ordered the cable and fuse holder and a 100A fuse for the crimp connectors to fit on the fuse box is it a 8 or 10mm fitting I know in the link above you mentioned 8mm but I'm under the impression its a bigger hole as I needed a 10 or a 12mm socket to remove the bolt can't remember which

OK well according to this conversion site 4/0 gauge is 120mm thick, is this overkill and should stick to your recommendation of 70mm (cheaper) http://www.lexproducts.com/technical-help/wire-conversion/

Ah, I wasent aware I needed one the battery will be located directly behind the back seats on the passengers side, so placing the fuse in the hole between the back seat and boot should be fine. And what type of fuse will I need? Thanks

OK thanks for that I was under the impression that 4/0 was thicker in total diameter had more strands etc (according to a conversion site)

OK saves measuring the amp cable to find out how much battery cable I need, and is there any reason why the fuse box needs to be as close as possible to the battery, thanks again

OK so I have relocated the fuse box to inside the car and the battery to the boot Now my question is aboit the live connections and where I can "make" them. Sorry about the poor diagrams All diagrams have been labeled OEM is straight forward And the srd is how I understand how it connects to everything I haven't bought the SRD kit I have decided to do this my self and hope the middle diagram will be OK Just incase my diagrams don't make sense this is what I am hoping to do Live from engine block to fuse box live (where the original cable went from battery to fuse box) Then from fuse box live to battery + And amp + to fuse box + So if that doesn't make sense based on OEM setup everything connects at the battery + terminal I want to connect everything at the terminal on the fuse box where the OEM battery cable use to connect (saves a lot of wire) Wire I will be using is 4/0 guage or 16mm Now I spoke to my bro who is an electrical engineer for EON And he seems to think that this might cause issues. He says that at the OEM setup could be drawing different amount of current down each individual cable, and the way I want it, it will need to draw twice the amount of current to power both cables. I disagree with him, for me it would need to output the same amount of current difference being is that the engine could pull as much as it wants and that the fuse box could easily blow the main fuse if there was too much current going through it I hope I make some sort of sense Thanks Pete

I think I'll make a few enquiries in the morning and see what both company's have to say as well as a few auto electricians that specialise in the areas

It might save cutting and splicing

Just spit balling really but would it be possible to program the alarm to receive the same rdif code as the advanced key system and if so I'm guessing that would cost a lot more money

So I had another look at the advanced keys system based on what you said The clutch switch check you suggested auto doors unlocking and push start button is all included with it with the exception of the clutch they use the foot brake the immobiliser is the transmitter key just like the keyfob of a normally alarm system. And it includes remote start. So far this seems the most optimal way forward In terms of security it seems to be basic central locking with a built in immobiliser I would have to buy a separate turbo timer if it would work with the central locking and immobiliser features of this system I suppose the only down side to this system is that there are no options you get with alarms like Clifford, including but not limited to Siren Tilt and widow brake GPS Turbo timer Etc Tbh I suppose it would be possible to add a siren to the mix using a few relays not sure though haven't put too much thought into it I dunno, I think what I am looking for is an answer to whether its a good idea to use the advanced keys system as at the minute I have a key and that's it (not much security) Or should I go all out on a alarm system currently priced at about £350 inc fitting Don't want to go too far to the expense of spending too much money as I currently need quite a lot of parts to have the car up and running I think what I'm actually asking is, is it adequate security for a car even though it doesn't have a siren, glass brake, tilt etc. Even though its a massive improvement on what I currently have I feel like I'm blabbing on here, delaying the inevitable lol Thanks again

Sweet so its possible to remove the ignition barrel and keep the steering lock intact but which method would you use a do-it-yourself push button and 2 rocker switches or 1 if I use a relay and a Clifford alarm system Or buy the advanced keys system and have a keyless entry with a Clifford alarm (would it conflict with a turbo timer?) And would the remote start with the advanced keys system conflict with the alarm? I'm assuming that Clifford don't do a keyless entry system(haven't seen 1 yet). I.e. walk up to the car and just get in and push start the engine without using a key fob Gaz, how did you wire up the push button and is it a momentary button or one of the ones like in the link in the first post Sorry for all of the questions. Big plans for the supe while its off the road I want to get everything done that I can get done before I decide its time to put it back on its been about 2 1/2 months since I have driven it and I'm starting to get withdrawal symptoms lol Thanks

PS the alarm has not been fitted yet

Hi, I have touched on the subject of having a push start button installed into my supe along with a switch for the ign and radio live However as I am currently near the end of my battery and fusebox relocation / wire tuck I have looked into how this can be achieved and need some pointers on which direction to go 1) I can look into doing it my self ie. Remove the ignition barrel and steering lock Place push button where barrel was originally located and have 2 switches 1 for radio and 1 for ignition 2) see this link http://www.advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK105B.html Again I would like to remove the ignition barrel (more of an OEM look) My main question with this method is would it work with an alarm that will have remote start and a turbo timer and if so do I need both key fobs / transmitters, I want to avoid this I do like the idea of being able to walk up to the car open the door and start the car without having to push a button on the transmitter (Just a start button) I know that an insurance company might not be happy if I remove the steering lock so after some pointers I will call them and see what they say, surely the advanced keys is basically a replacement of this as you would need the transmitter within a certain range for the car to work (I believe, could be wrong though) And if I need the steering lock is there a way to keep it working with out the key/ignition barrel I know I am way over my head here with this but it seems like the best time to do it and I have already arranged for an electrician to come to the house and do this for me if needed, he's my brother so there will be no charge for this doing but he's advised me to make up my mind which route I would like to go down before he looks into it Thanks Pete

Hi, The crank pulley on my supe broke last week, and I noticed a small oil leak somewhere in the turbos. So I have stripped the car down I have removed the following TT piping Smic Ac pump and piping PS pump Both radiators Throttle body Fuse box battery All wiring except for what's attached to the engine Can covers Etc Basically there's nothinguch left except the turbos and engine Now my engine is quite dirty and caked in oil So should I clean the entire engine inside and out? What should I use to do this? And other than engine seals and gaskets what other parts will need replacing PS I'm doing all of this my self, its my first time doing anything like this, so you'll have to bare with me if I'm not sure what a few things are Thanks in advance Pete

I can't make it as the car is now off the road, you'll have to count me out, sorry

Im good with the 1st Aug depending on the time, working till 8am

I'm up for it depending on my work situation 1) supraleeturbo 2) DimSum 3) Pete.Osborne69

So going from the diagram you drew I think it works like so 1) no key door open Current travels from "perm live" activating the "interior lamp" as the "door pin switch" is closed, creating a circuit. 2) no key door closed Current does not travel anywhere do to it not being earthed 3) key in door closed In terror light goes out due to no earth 4) key turned to "acc on", handbrake on door closed Current travels from "acc live down to the relay and through to the " handbrake switch" to earth thus creating a circuit Which in turn powers the coil in the relay pushing the pin 87a to join with pin 87 which creates a circuit coming from: Perm live down to the interior lamp into the relay at pin 30 and leaving and pin 87 which is earthed allowing the interior lamp to come on as the circuit is now complete 5) key turned to "ign on", handbrake on and door closed Same as above except the power comes from the ign live and not the acc live and I assume that the resistor is in place to stop the two live currents connecting creating a circuit in the relay Does this sound about right or am I getting something wrong here Thanks again Pete