Darren_Whifbitz

It will be the crank seal that has come out, and they only come out for a reason. Worn pump, engine worn (breathing, crank nose wear). Like i said we can take front apart and check for crank wear if all is ok then then we can try just a seal, but their is no garantee this will work and you will have to have the oil pressure sensor fitted. next step would be oil pump and if all this fails a rebuild is required , so as you can see you could spend more trying to cure the issue in the long run. I was just putting you in the picture as to what normally happens in these situations, ultimately the route you wish to take is yours we can only advise

You can use a push in fitting in place of the std reg , and i would also get rid of the std fuel damper . Use -6 pipe for feed and return

Sorry to hear you had some issues mate, especially after you have just got it back. As paul said we have done lots of these conversions and 9 times out of 10 all is well, we can change the oil pump and seal and check crank nose wear, but we do normally find that this is not a 100% fix and if the car has popped the seal out that much it would normally require a rebuild. depending what budget you have at present would depend on what route we should take, if you want to try cheapest route first as in seal and check crank nose with a leak down and comp test , i would definitely advise a oil pressure sensor linked to syvecs to save the engine if you have any seals issues again. But if you want to do it all properly and future proof it then i would get it rebuilt properly, i know its more expensive initially but it the long run you will save a lot more money Cheers Darren

Thin smear of running in oil in bore will do it and some on the installation tool

Is it over boosting ? Double check you pipe work

Glad you happy

Leaking shock Sticky caliper Geo setup Most common stuff

Yes correct

All of above if you have the £££, if not just do the essentials

Shock or arb link are the norm

Correct block them holes off, HKS do some bungs, if you can't get them Paul can

Thanks for the nice comments guys

Been through a few cars since the smart , got a R32 again but that's up for sale now. The Porsche the best car I have had though won't mind a 997TT

The sequential plugs that come from the coil pack loom can be chopped back just insulate ends, you can also do the front vsv I plugs if you want or just hide them behind alternator. Won't effect running of car Auto loom plugs : the largest connector - take the 2 thickest wires next to each other , think they are black and black/white and join them together. That will sort out starting car. Speedo plug is the same , reverse switch is another 2 wires on big plug can't recall colors there written down at work soz Solenoid wires will go to ecu or boost controller or if using Syvecs you can use blue plug on front vsv for that . You can use pretty much any decent solenoid valve Ryan likes using the Bosch ones with the Syvecs

Cheers

Just to say hi guys un gals, keep getting asked by customers what's my user name on forum, so thought I would sign up and try and get on here as much as I can and help out where I can. Cheers Darren The mechanic for Garage Whifbitz