veilsideTT

I can only imagine the system gave me a fault code for the solar sensor due to the fact there was no direct sunlight on it at the time (according to the W/S manual this can happen) After having the system re gassed the air con is working fine. For how long though i dont know! i feel i have a leak to be honest as when they drained the system there was only 40g in there!!! they were working in that area when installing the alarm but i think i need to wait and see what happens over the next few days as i can check for leaks now with an ultraviolet light apparently! I may have cracked a pipe when installing my 3row as you have to move a couple of pipes around for the cooler to fit and for the piping going up to the throttle. By the way matt, Sorry i had to get the system done closer to home mate as from a "cost" point of view it was better for me. Cheers Scott

No replys then Oh Well Well just an update, ive had the system re-gassed today and they have put the Leakage Dye in the system too. Got to run it around for a few days and then check the pipes for the dye.

My car has sat from September last year to about 3 weeks ago now when I finally got my engine back in. I’ve used the air con a few time since the rebuild and it was working fine! On Friday I had a Clifford 500 installed. Got in her today and whacked the air con on for the first time since having the alarm fitted and it just didn’t get cool in the car. The engine idles up when I put the A/C button on and I can hear the A/C unit click in. So I checked the diagnostics code and the Windscreen Defogger light flashed. This refers to a Solar Sensor Fault. Checked the sight glass at the bumper and there were a few bubbles in there. Not loads though! Also when sitting in the car if i switch the A/C on I can hear like a gas flowing sort of noise from around the dash area. I’m pretty positive this sound was never present before and is a new one. Do you think the Alarm fitting and the A/C problem is related or do i need re gassing? Or possible a leak somewhere? I don’t think I can manage summer without my 'con'

I will give it a go then. Cheers

cheers for the comments peeps. But im still a bit lost with how much i should be adjusting this bolt on the back or the SSQV (and also which way tightens the spring) Or should i be staying well away from it!!! Scott

Did you have a UK of J-spec Auto matt? As issues of Stalling with Vent to Atmosphere BOV's only occured on UK spec Autos. Something to do with the Mass Air Flow sensor on the UK spec (the j-spec has a MAP sensor instead which doesnt cause any problems) I think i got the MAP,MAF thing the right way round Scott

Hi all. After my engine rebuild I have had a few issues regarding stalling. Before I used to stall now and again due to being Auto and having a Vent to Atmosphere BOV on the car. Since the rebuild I’ve gone Full De Cat now and had a 3row. But! my car stalls quite easily now when braking hard after boosting slightly (Still running in) i only have to touch the throttle (creating slight boost at low revs) and then let off and the BOV is venting straight the way. I feel that the spring is too loose and is opening up on the slightest amount of boost when I let off the throttle, probably due to the turbo’s spooling up a little quicker now as I’ve taken the first cat out. So to my point. I have read on many occasions to "NEVER TOUCH THE BOLT ON THE BACK OF THE SSQV" But I cant help but feel the spring is opening up too easily and she needs tightening up slightly! Sorry that was a bit long winded Hope someone can help Cheers Scott

From my toyota workshop manual Fuel Pressure: 226 - 275 kPa (2.3 - 2.8kgf/cm2, 33 - 40psi) Hope this helps Scott

Me too, me too!!!! I jumped around the drive like a kid when it started!!

Problem Solved!!! Checked all the Connecters down at the ECU. There is one plug (Orange on on the firewall) that has like a plastic arm that has to be pulled down to lock the plug in place. I had not pulled it down. There must be some sort of mechanisim that makes the connecton when you pull the lever down! She started straight the way!!!! Thanks all for your help. Sorry if my stupid mistake wasted your time everyone Scott

Nope!

yep, checked the lot! Its really getting to me now. Think i may have to get a Pro in for this one (And a Mechanic!)

Anyone? Anything?

ok, Ive checked all fuses and there fine. Ive checked the crank position sensor, that is all connected and ok. Ive looked all around the enigine for loose connnectors or earths, no problems there I tested the current at the Main ECU for the fuel pump (pins 21&22). Nothing there on ignition or crank. that rules out anything past there like Fuel Pump ECU and Fuel Pump. What more can i do! Its driving me mad!

Something i will look at for sure. Can only think that somthing like that could have Disconnected/Cut when putting the engine back in if that was the case. I know it was connected when i put the loom on the engine before dropping it in. Cheers Matt

I will check them as im willing to try anything. Up to now i need to: Check the (Main)ECU pins for the Fuel Pump for a current on crank Check all Fuses Any other suggestions welcome! Thanks all Scott

Ive checked the fuses in the Engine bay. But not checked the relay type fuses (EFI Main etc) as im not sure how you check those.

Without actually testing each side of the Pump ECU i cant be 100% sure but i doubt there is any current going to the Pump ECU. Only reason i say this is because with the delivery pipe disconnected (At Fuel Filter) and the engine cranking i have not got any fuel comming through. But if i put 12V battery onto the pump it flows fuel out of the delivery pipe! scott

good point if thats true. But i have no fuel pumping through even when i crank (Took the delivery pipe off the fuel filter) Think i have checked the wrong pins on ECU for the Fuel Pump. I looked at the EFI pins not the Fuel Pump pins. Will have to check that tommorow now. Scott

I tested down at the ECU pins for the EFI relays. No current there when ignition on! Does that mean that something else is telling the ECU not to send any power down to the Pump?? Scott

Not something i have checked but i can have a look at it. I take it i should be working back from the Pump to the ECU then? If i have nothing (Voltage) going into the Fuel ECU then where does the wiring go before that? straight to the ECU? Could a bad earth that i have installed cause a problem like this? Are there any other places where Toyota would have installed cuts in Fuel Wires for the Immobiliser apart from at the ECU? Cheers Scott

Hi all. Finally got to the "turning of the key" point today after rebuilding my TT engine (Shortblock Installed) Unfortunatly she wouldnt fire. Engine turns over fine though. I went straight for the fuel side of things and after a while i managed to trace the problem to the fuel pump. With the ignition on, the fuel pump isnt pumping at all. But 12V across it and she pumps. I bypassed the Immobiliser cuts down at the ECU just incase it was the alarm (very dodgy old toyota alarm) cutting the fuel. but no joy there. Any ideas anyone as ive about given up for the day on it now! Scott

Supose i could keep adjusting my torque wrench up untill i doesnt click. Then i would know what the torque is at now before i run her up! Would you advise re torque after 30mins of running? Most people ive spoken to think im crackers for even suggesting the idea! Scott

All i was trying to say was that in the TRD instructions its tells you to re-torque the head blots after 30 mins of running. Basically i ment that there would be no way of knowing what torque the bolts would be at after you have turned them 180 degrees. So how would you know what to torque them up to after 30 mins?? See what i was getting at?

Yeh funny, Ive heard a few storys of giving her a bit of welly to really seal the rings into the cylinders. I dont think "ragging the arse off it" is quite how its supposed to be done though. They say you should do a few hard pulls on the M-way. I personally dont like the idea of it but its supposed to give you good compression numbers due to a really good seal on the rings! if you had spent a couple of G's on a new shortblock assy i dont think you would be redlining her for a while either! Scott