Mk4Gaz

Mine appears to be hitting the drivers side of the gearbox, almost dead centre of the engine, but running around the o/s

^^^^thats the solenoid. The actuator/s are on the turbos themselves, although I'm pretty sure its the two hoses directly adjacent to the alternator, where you make your connections. I want to also get mine plumbed in, so will be studying the article on mkiv.com myself

Thanks for the suggestions guys, at least it gives me a head start in tracing it Pretty sure its not those dude, I remember reading your thread, and they were the first place I looked. I've felt around those pipes and they were bone dry. I definitely think its in the same area, but lower down. I could of course be wrong, its not unknown lol! I'll whip the cam cover off tomorrow if I get a chance, and see if I can get a better look. I want to replace the coil plugs anyway Now, just need to remember where I put the new coil plugs

Thanks Josh, how difficult, what sort of job is that likely to be if it is that? Also, how best to attack it, what should I remove - turbo or inlet side?

Hi guys, went out for a quick drive this morning, just a gentle plod. Anyway, when I got home, I noticed I had a small coolant leak under the car. I've had a look, and it appears to be coming from between the engine, and bulkhead. Its dripping on to the bell housing, and subsequently on to the floor. I can't tell exactly where it is, and haven't started stripping it down yet, but wondered if there were any common places to look for? Pretty sure its not the heater matrix pipes, as they are above the engine, this is definitely lower down. My guess is turbo coolant lines or throttle body coolant supply? The problem I'm faced with, is to strip bits back, the engine needs to be cool, and when its cool, there's no leaks!

Well, the mould came out well, and so did the first copy, so I guess it just leaves the fit now - hopefully over the next few days, I'll get a chance to try it

I've thought about this in the past, and I'd probably attach a short length of chain between the slam panel and underside of bonnet, with a carabinier or similar, so that if the catch was to fail, the bonnet wouldn't lift too far. I know aerocatches are good, but I think they ruin a bonnet

I really want a set of those, how much are they if you don't mind me asking ?

That's my thoughts too

I'm definitely going to do that, I think the rev limit may be manuals only, possibly as the auto box doesn't like revving that high - or I could be speculating rubbish! I've read that the rest is pretty much right, raised boost maps, fuelling/timing maps for bolt on mods, fuel cut removed, speed limiter removed

Yep yep

I'm sorry I didn't call you back Adi, I've been meaning to all week, but with a house move going on, along with work being stupid busy, its kept slipping my mind :o I'm actually going with the mr2oc, but my supra will be on their stand. I'm planning to come over and meet some of you guys, and have a nosey around the cars, and hopefully next year I can stay with you lot

Paul, the boost controller isn't fitted yet mate, I'm hoping its going to turn up tomorrow........... Scott, I haven't dome much looking into it to be honest, just that when I was running the power cable for my amps, I found the ecu has a mines sticker on it - the proper foil gold one, so I believe it to be genuine, had one on my mr2 years ago, so kind of know what they do - ish. Previous to the weekend, my car had the cat back and 2nd decat fitted, and was making circa 11psi on wot with both turbos running, over 4k rpms. The guy I bought it off, said it had been dynoed at 362 bhp at that level, but I have no print out to prove it, and I don't even think he was aware of the ecu, as he didn't mention it!

Scott, I've not driven it since fitting the pump and 1st decat on Sunday! Previous to that, it was about 0.8 bar on full boost, so interested to see what it makes without a boost controller. Just wanted to confirm that I don't need a fcd before I go out stamping on the loud pedal

Sorry, forgot that bit - and I only fitted it on Sunday! Yes, a walboro 255 lph pump too Daft question, but does it make THAT much difference over stock, I mean its really noticeable?

Thanks Tony, I was hoping you'd come along, as I remember you mentioning you also had one I've got a pro sport stepper motor boost gauge mate, and I'm pretty sure its accurate. Was always spot on with my gizzmo msibc in my mr2

Hi guys, i'm just about ready to crank the boost up, but would anyone be able to tell me definitively if I need anything else before I do ? Current setup: Stock twin turbos - j spec ceramic afaik NGK BKR7IEX or whatever the code is 1st and 2nd decats with 2" restrictor ring 3" cat back system Boost controller en route Induction kit FMIC soon to fit - but not necessary, just for bling ! Mines ECU Now i've read that the mines ecu removes fuel cut, and boost cut (not sure if they're the same phenomenon ?), but could anyone confirm this for sure, so I don't start going into silly mode every time I put my foot down ! I'm planning to run 1.1 bar max, I know that any increase over stock is likely to stress any engine, but don't want to risk pushing the old girl too far ! Can anyone see anything blindingly obvious that I may have missed ?

I've got 18 x 8.5 et 15 up front, with a 225/35, and 18 x 9.5 et 15 rear with a 245/35 tyre. Mines lowered on tein coilovers, and I have about a 30mm arch gap on the rear on the hardest setting, and a 20mm arch gap at the front, on setting 12. I rolled the lip of my rear arches the heath robinson way, with a bfh, and they occasionally catch on a real nasty stretch of road. I'm going to get arch enemy round to give them a further tweak when I can

4 bastard hours, and I'm certainly no spanner novice!

Oh, before you tackle the job, make sure you have a wobbly/universal joint in your socket set, otherwise you'll never get a socket on the nuts. I used all 1/2" drive stuff, purely because of the leverage needed to crack the nuts undone - had to extend my ratchet with a jack handle Lol!

I did in fact just tie it up out of the way, although on the mr2's I've always just unplugged them and chucked them in the bin! Chris, its a total sod to get to the 3 bolts where the cat/decat joins to the manifold. Granted, 1 is worse than the other 2, but I think what made it worse is that they potentially have never been undone before - and doing it on your back on the driveway makes it really awkward! I ended up dropping the entire system, which made it much easier, and my car already has a second decat, but I had to cut the two bolts where it joined to the cat, as they were rusted to buggery! As for noise, its not much louder tbh, but a bit deeper and more of a burble - it sounds lovely in fact! I managed to strip the thread on one of the 3 manifold to decat studs, so I've only got 2 holding it on, its not blowing, but I'm going to have to get another stud at some point.

Happy days, I thought as much, but thought it wise to double check!!! Cheers bud, that's put my mind to rest For the record, I never want to fit another 1st, what a total prat of a job to do!

Hi chaps, I fitted my 1st decat today, and after removing the original cat, I tried to get the sensor out of it, and mullered it! Am I right in thinking its just an egt sensor and not necessary, or is it anything more important than that? The bolts holding the plate to the cat had disintegrated to nothing, and the only thing left is the probe itself!

Thanks fellas, well pleased with it Sure, if you order the bits - colour you want, and send it to me with your clock, I'll be happy to

Thanks for the explanation dude