Mk4Gaz

Ah happy days, see you there!

Danny, remember Rich (Trick) is also coming. We're booked to join jdm dragons and have confirmed our places this morning. I can let Rich know, and Keith if you want to join us we can ask if there are enough spaces left?

I do indeed make fibreglass versions that will never rot! But, unfortunately due to current work loads, I can't do anything until the new year now.

Can I just say that as a manufacturer of carbon and grp parts, slight fitment issues aren't always linked to poor quality. Bear in mind that moulds do slightly warp over time, this is just the case with composites, and parts to more of a degree due to being so thin. In the case of the scuttle panel, if you've ever removed one, you'll know exactly how flexible and flimsy they are. Trying to mould one whilst keeping it straight and true to it's fitted shape is almost impossible. With this in mind it's no surprise that any 'copies' aren't ever going to fit as well as a factory original injection moulded part. Don't get me wrong, i've seen some real shite over the years, but anyone who buys an aftermarket hand made panel and expects it to fit 100% perfectly has expectations that are too high.

This! No noise at all, as Mike says, it's the closest you'll get to a stock feel but can handle decent power once broken in

Ticket bought to attend on the Saturday, looking forward to seeing you all!

Mine are connected bud. I could whip them off easily enough, but I found jacking the wheel up and compressing the shock put everything under a lot of pressure. This in turn stops the wheel moving for camber and toe adjustment. I'm possibly iverthing the whole thing as it'll be going for alignment anyway, but I didn't want to drive it crabbing up the road

Thanks bud, yes it's the lance settings that everyone seems to recommend. I've fitted poly bushes throughout, and my thought process was the same. I don't think they'd clamp in the same way that oem bushes do, so stabilising the suspension might be unnecessary in my circumstances.

Thanks Rob, pretty much what I thought. I've actually already bolted the shocks on and fitted the rear wheels. I put a trolley jack under the tyre and lifted it to what I thought looked like the normal ride height, but with the pressure of the shock pushing down, you can't adjust the bolts easily. I didn't know if doing it without the load of the shock on it would be easier?

Hi all, need a bit of advice please...... I've just finished fully overhauling the rear subframe and suspension, and am putting it all back together. I've fitted brand new camber and toe eccentric bolts but know you're supposed to preload the suspension before torquing them up. Naturally it's going for an alignment when it's back on the road, but is it as simple as jacking the hub assembly up the the normal ride height (ground to centre of driveshaft nut), torquing the bolts, and then fitting the shocks? I'll set everything at zero I guess, then have it tweaked at the alignment shop. Whilst we're on the subject, what do you folk recommend for a good street setup on the rear? I've pretty much read that - 1.5mm camber and 1-2mm toe in is best. I'll be doing the front later in the year

Welcome to the club! Nice to see Carol's old car is going to be cherished by a new owner, it was her pride and joy!

I'm assuming he means the black plastic sill protectors

If it has the large flange, the w58 rear won't bolt up. I don't know what the na auto came with

What diff do you have? Does it have the small or large companion flange?

Nice one Si, you've made great progress! I feel your pain with getting the twins off, they are a complete bastard! Looking forward to catching up soon [emoji1303]