Sooty

Mines ECU for a manual 2JZ-GE This is a plug and play ECU upgrade for NA manual cars made by Mines. I found this made a significant improvement to both response and acceleration on my car. The ECU removes the factory speed limiter, increases the rev limit to 8200rpm (though I have never taken it this high - only to around 8000rpm) and the map increases the peak power to around 240bhp with supporting mods (i.e. air filter, decat and aftermarket exhaust). The previous owner carried out dyno power runs with this and a stock ecu to compare the two and from memory it increased the power and torque output by around 5-10% over a significant portion of the rev range and removed the dip caused from the ACIS butterfly valve opening at around 5000rpm. The ECU is in fully working condition with the warranty sticker intact - removed from my car last weekend. I have had this on my car for the last 3 years and it has worked flawlessly. I am installing a turbo so I no longer need this. I am looking for £350 for it excluding postage - I can post this however collection from the Bristol area would be preferred.

I have read on other forums that when changing to the 4 runner dizzy cap a timing adjustment is required (10degrees I think though cant remember if it is retarded or advanced). Might be worth checking the timing with a timing light as this may be the problem.

Paid in full

Wow, great pictures! I was there only a few weeks back for a low carbon vehicle event. The alpine track and the high speed ring were great fun to drive around even if it was only in an i8 haha.

I have done this conversion to mine. When I bought new pads they didn't come with new brake pad slider pins. Pretty easy to fit, you will need the caliper bolts though from an LS400 as they are slightly shorter if I remember correctly. Also maybe the banjo bolts for the brake lines. One of mine fit fine without any shaving however I did have to take a small notch off the other as it wouldn't line up with the bolt holes. I hope that helps.

I am pretty certain the rears are 10 inches wide, a 265 tyre looks a bit stretched on them. I agree the lips are definitely shallower than those though. It's a shame there's not more information online about them. I forgot to mention that the fronts cleared my LS400 brakes and therefore should fit over Uk spec Supra brakes too.

Yeah they are very similar to Equips and also Veilside Andrews, which I think really suit the supra well. Thanks mate

Yeah they are plastic. Ok mate, are you able to collect or attending wroxall abbey on saturday?

Spats in silver Not in the best of condition as you can see from the pictures. Will need paint and the holes fixing / quarter panel lights inserting to fill them. Not sure what they are worth but would take £50. Collect from Rooksbridge or Bristol or I can bring them to Wroxall on Saturday.

18" TRD Alumi-k wheels in need of refurbishment 2x 8.5J wheels with 235/40/R18 budget tyres (though will need changing as one in virtually bald). 2x 10j Wheels with 265/35/R18 budget tyres (one has a split and will need changing). I bought these approximately 2 and a half years ago on ebay. Although they had been media blasted I recognised that the wheels were potentially a set of TRD Alumi-k's. I knew they were pretty rare especially in this size as the majority are 17 inches and for MR2's so took a punt and collected them. Although they dont have the correct centre caps, A label was visible on the back of one, when I bought them, which had a part number matching that of a TRD Alumi-k wheel in the correct size online. When I bought them the listing said they had been media blasted. I then set about refurbishing them and after 70 hours of sanding, polishing and painting they looked pretty good. Although they weren't perfect I was happy with the outcome and put some new tyres on. After fitting them to my car I noticed one of the wheels had a slow air leak and needed topping up once every week or so. I put this down to a leaky valve or dodge seal however on the way back from a car show last year I realised I had a flat and after putting in a can of tyre weld noticed it was leaking from an inch long crack at the back of the wheel (see photograph). After this I had given up on them and have recently fitted a set of XXR's. Pictures are of: the crack, Before the refurbishment, after refurbishment, Them now and a close up of the worst kerbed wheel. To summarise, one needs welding, the tyres need replacing, the faces could do with a repaint and the lips need a polish. There is some kerbing around the very edge which I left from when I refurbished them. I think these are too good to scrap and I am sure they would look nice after a good refurb and the split welding. I am looking for around £150 for them. They are located in Rooksbridge but can be collected from Bristol. I may even be able to bring them to Wroxall abbey this weekend if required.

I have a set in silver which I took off my car about a year ago (take a look at my garage). In decent condition, slight chip on the passenger side at the back but would be easy enough to fix. Can get some pictures for you this weekend if you like?

All paid up, sorry for taking so long! I haven't been on here much lately. See you all there

What a great weekend, Becky and I had a fantastic time. Definitely the best one we have attended so far. Thank you everyone who was involved in organising it. We are looking forward to wroxall abbey and seeing you all there.

The vvti LS400 gearboxes are 5 speed boxes and it has an additional control solenoid compared to the 4-speed. The Soarers only came with the 4-speeds and I think its the pre-97 model LS400s which have the same gearbox. However there is more than one model of 4-speed auto gearbox and they each have different connectors so thats something to watch out for.

Just a suggestion but it might be worth resetting the ecu before you do the first power run. This should make it a fairer test as they will both be tested with their default factory settings and therefore the first ecu wont have any stored fuel or ignition trim values. Looking forward to seeing the results!

Oh good, mines the same and i want it to stay in kph so the mileage is correct. Haha yeah I doubt I will ever go over it either, especially on Dragonball this year .

Thats interesting, what was the highest you revved it to jake? I always shift up a few hundred rpm before the limiter at the most so doubt i would ever go anywhere near the 8k rpm point anyway. Yeah I doubt it would be a massive improvement but even a few extra bhp would be nice. Do you know if this ECU has the speed limiter removed?

Ah ok, I wish I had raced you at dragonball last year to see the difference. Starting to think I need one of these, especially as a turbo is off the cards for a few years yet

I am interested in seeing the difference this makes on an NA. Depending on the results I may be willing to buy this so drop me a pm if he does want to sell it.

I got mine at around 7.30 so i think i was one of the select few.... i heard that the first 5 to get tickets win a prize?

Haha! What radiator have you currently got? If its stock, it might be worth sticking with the side mount otherwise you may end up with oil and water temperature problems. Also would be best to minimise the number of bends in your intercooler pipework too, if possible.

Alright buddy? Obviously I don't have a turbo... yet, but I have seen quite a few engine bays lol. To me the two connections to the intercooler look the wrong way round. The best route would probably be to disconnect the pipe connected to your engine inlet and connect that to the pipe currently attached to your turbos cold-side outlet via a 90 degree pipe. Once you have spun the turbo cold side round to point straight down that should give you enough clearance from your bonnet for the pipe to pass through. Then connect the other end of your intercooler (closest side to the radiator) to the turbo cold-side outlet which will be pointing down. I hope that is of some help to you.

Was good fun yesterday, great to catch up with you all too. Thanks for the advice on the Cquartz Roger, will be ordering some for my new wheels today .

Thanks guys, though without sounding too vain Axl... for a bear my typing skills are equally as impressive, given the shape of my paws and the distraction of having a bearded guy 'sunflowering' me all day long! haha That does sound like a good price compared to the cost of a Blitz or HKS exhaust. Have you heard/seen one of their exhausts before? From what I have seen I think alot of people on here use Ibrar to refurb wheels. Maybe get a quote from him if you havent already.

It will make alot of difference. The octane rating is a measure of the fuels ability to resist knock (the higher the better). In Japan I think they only have super unleaded which would mean they are mapped and set up for that fuel. You may get away with using regular unleaded in them because the ECU retards the timing when it detects knock (which is the reason why there is a difference in power on the two fuels). However as it will be knocking (even if it is a small amount every so often), this will lead to premature engine wear and failure. Not only that but in my NA I find I get between 50-75 miles extra out of a tank of super compared to regular so I figure it makes sense to spend the extra £5-10 on a tank. I am sure you would see a similar result with the two fuels in a TT. Yeah removable silencers are handy, especially if you ever want to take it on a track day. I have one for mine but found it really restrictive and made it feel like it had no power at the top end... or I should say even less haha. All of the second decats I have seen have the same flange so you can bolt any to you exhaust. Just have to match the diameters. There is another cat on a supra just after the turbo which I think is the most restrictive of the two. This one is different to the NA ones. You may need to keep the second one for mot's if you removed them both. My NA passes without them due to being an import and its age but I am not sure if that is the same with TT's.