Sooty

Model: Supra SZR NA-T R154 Year: 1995 (M-reg) imported in 2008 Facelift: No Mileage: 155,405 km (96564 miles) MOT remaining: December 2022 Car's location: Bristol PRICE: £32k Modifications: Engine: GTE pistons, NA head gasket, XSpower tubular exhaust manifold, Precision T67 dual ball-bearing turbo, oil catch can, numerous braided Teflon fluid and breather lines with torques fittings, Chris Wilson SMIC, Toyota intercooler duct, HKS BOV, FIC 775cc injectors, Uprated HT leads, K&N air filter, Whifbitz heater and Rad hoses, Turbosmart Hypergate 45mm Wastegate, ECUmaster Black standalone ECU, MAC solenoid, Wideband sensor, exhaust gas temperature probe, 2x bosch wideband knock sensors, Fuel pressure sensor, oil pressure sensor, oil temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, Setrab 19 row oil cooler, Electric radiator fans (controlled by the ECU), twin walbro fuel pumps, modified fuel-pump hangar with AN fittings, Braided fuel lines, Fuelab fuel pressure regulator, in-line replaceable fuel filters, Aftermarket fuel rail (twin feed, single return), ECUmaster Bluetooth adaptor (EMUdash – gauges), ABS, A/C (needs a regas and signal wire to ecu needs connecting), GReddy Oil filter relocation kit, ARP headstuds, 3 inch bore straight through exhaust Drive train: Low mileage R154 chaser gearbox (with tripod shifter), Cubespeed short shifter, OS Giken STR twin plate clutch, R154 front/W58 rear prop, A01B diff (second diff bush mount) Exterior: Zunsport front grills, XXR 531 19” wheels rear - 10.5j et 25 and front - 8.5j et25, Goodyear eagle F1 tyres (275/35/R19 rears 235/35/R19 fronts), 10mm spacers on the front with extended wheel nuts, BC racing coilovers, HEL braided brake lines, LS400 4-pot front brake calipers. Facelift rear side lights, Active front spoiler (wired into cabin for up and down control), Lexus IS200 washer jets, Bilthamber undersealed including sills (summer of 2020), LED front indicators and DRLs, rare front wheel mud flaps Interior: TBdevelopments extended fuel tank cover, Alpine head unit and aftermarket speakers, boot blind, Toyota black carpet and headlining, cloth seats, Momo steering wheel, NRG removable quick release steering wheel adaptor Description: My wife and I had a baby earlier this year and since then have been commuting to work in Bristol in the supra. With the Bristol city center low emission zone (£9 per day!) coming in the summer and limited parking at our house something more child and CAZ friendly is required. I have enjoyed every second of owning it and will miss it greatly. I have poured countless hours into it over the years and have done all the work on the car myself (with a lot of help from my father-in-law and his four-post ramp). The oil is changed every year with a fully synthetic ester based oil (FUCHs titan race pro S or Motul sport). The gearbox conversion was undertaken in the summer of 2019 – diff and gearbox oil were replaced at that time. Spark plug and oil change was recently done in August 2021. The car is stored in a heated garage and has been since 2017. The tyres and brake pads both have lots of life left. It is currently running open loop on the wastegate spring producing 10psi of boost. With the compression ratio from the NA head, gasket and GTE piston combination, I predict it is currently making somewhere around 400bhp. With the R154/A01b final drive ratio it feels very fast and have rarely found that I need more. I have done all the mapping myself, which has enabled me to optimise the map for all the operating conditions it has seen in the time since doing the turbo conversion in January 2018. I had planned to increase the boost to 1.1bar and get it on a dyno but just haven’t found the time in the last year with the baby and work. The SMIC, distributor and diff will likely limit the power it could reliably achieve to approximately 500bhp. However, I believe all of the other parts fitted should see it to around 700bhp. It does have a few bad bits. Firstly the paint work is showing its age with some scratches on the rear quarter, chips on the bonnet and front wing and a small patch of paint on the bonnet has started peeling (I sealed it with a sticker to stop it progressing anymore). A respray was the last thing on my list that I planned to do once I had finished all the mechanical work. There was an oil leak coming from the cam cover seals – I have addressed this – this was found at the latest MOT. The wheels are a bit kerbed but are generally in good condition. The dash was carbon wrapped by the previous owner which looks ok but is bubbling a bit in places. The exterior photos were taken in the summer - I will upload some more recent ones when the weather improves.

Great work on getting it all wired up and running! If you are using Bosch knock sensors - I think (from memory) the ECUmaster 2JZ base map has these setup correctly. I validated the logged outputs of mine using some knock detecting headphones I made. Running rich is safer than lean (certainly under load and WOT) but within reason. Running too rich can lead to bore wash (oil is washed from the cylinders - pistons/bores wear quickly) but also your oil may quickly become saturated with fuel reducing its lubricating properties significantly. When I did mine I checked my oil regularly whilst working on the map at the start and even ended up replacing it after only a few 10's of miles and again a few hundred miles later. If you are mapping it yourself and on the road I would recommend keeping an eye on this.

Hi Keron, do you have the duct for a sidemount intercooler?

Thank you for this - I thought it was just the big case diff that had a different flange. Maybe someone could confirm if the w58 front section of the propshaft can be mated to the rear of a TT auto prop? As this would be a more convenient solution.

W58 gearbox (85k miles) from my sz-r mkiv supra. Low mileage box spent most of its life behind a NA engine and then the last 1000 miles at around 350bhp following an Na-t conversion. No crunches and shifts nicely through all the gears. Was very careful not to abuse it after I carried out my na-t conversion as didn't want to do any harm to it. Hard pulls were only made in 4th (the strongest gear as it is a 1:1 ratio) and always short shifted in 2nd and 3rd to prevent damaging it. Only removed as fitted an R154 conversion that can take the higher power I am targeting. Nearly new stock release bearing, clutch disc and pressure plate back in march this year with approximately 1000miles on - fitted when I installed my NA-T kit. Held the power fine with no slipping at all. All in near new condition. Also included is: W58 full propshaft, shifter, gear knob, leather gaitor, plastic manual gear surround (most of the clips are broken but will work fine), brake and clutch pedals, nearly new master cylinder with a TT manual heat shroud fitted. Clutch line and slave cylinder, Flywheel, clutch, release bearing and a selection of bolts for the conversion are also included. This should be everything required to convert an Auto to manual excluding the pilot bearing that goes in the crank shaft. Everything is out of the car and ready to be collected. £1700 ono Pictures to follow - pm me your number and will send pictures through whatsapp

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I think postage with royal mail special delivery (which includes upto £500 compensation for theft or damage) would be just over £10 - so would make it £360 including postage

It might be worth checking your driver door sensor is working correctly before looking at the wiring?

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Could be a stuck open injector - you should be able to test the injector outputs with the ecu software.

Could you have had a boost leak during mapping which you essentially fixed when you reinstalled the intercooler hose? The added restriction of the intake at idle may cause it to hunt.

Yeah no problem mate and good luck with the build!

Have these problems been issues since it was last mapped? The ECU doesn't sense the position of the IACV - it is a stepper motor and is just opened more or less depending on the value of the duty map and the error between the rpm and the target (in closed loop). I am not familiar with the AEM software but you should have maps on your ecu called something like IACV duty vs temperature, afterstart enrichment vs time and target RPM vs temp. In closed loop the ECU uses these as a base point and adjusts the air flow within a set range of duties. As your car idles fine when it is upto temperature it suggests either the low temperature part of these maps are wrong or the afterstart enrichment is too high. I would guess your ignition breakup problem is an unrelated problem. When was the last time you changed your plugs - what temperature rating are they? Are you using a distributor, stock coil, HT leads or coil packs? How much boost are you running?

Yeah it has a built in MAP sensor and WBO controller. It was pretty involved making my own loom so going the pnp route would definitely be simpler - I dread to think how many hours I spent on it in total. I think you may have to use the bosch wideband knock sensors (as I did) but cant say for certain. I installed them in the stock locations with threaded posts which I bought through whifbitz - part number was either 90126-A0008 or 90126-08046. You will however need to run a shielded pair of wires to each of them - I think only a single shielded wire goes to the stock ones. It would probably be simple enough once the intake manifold is out of the way though.

The sensors I replaced and fitted were: CLT, oil temp x2, IAT, EGT, knock x2, oil pressure, fuel pressure and WBO. The sensors for the dash gauges are all stock. It wasn't overly difficult, just time consuming working out where everything needed to be connected - mainly using the supra wiring manual and wilbo666. I made a spreadsheet with lists of all the plugs and pins then matched them all up. It helped having the engine out of the car as I could work out where I wanted everything to go. I am an electrical engineer so that helped but this was the first loom I have made and was not perfect. It was a difficult decision but knew that I would have to modify an existing loom anyway to add the sensors I wanted. The plug and play option is a good route unless you plan to add alot of additional sensors and are installing them in locations that differ from the stock layout. The decision was made a little easier for me as I used a GS300 engine so the loom wouldn't fit anyway and didn't want to take the car off the road whilst I made it. Ah yes, you are probably right. Coming from an NA I don't know much about the control of the twin turbos - just remembered seeing alot of VSVs in the wiring manual for the GTE engine that you may need to control. I mainly mentioned them as I used all of the outputs on mine and, although I think you can buy an expansion unit, if you needed to control more valves the number of outputs available should be considered before making your final decision.

Yeah I have previously flicked through the facebook group but found it very hard to search through the posts to find what I was looking for. Indeed, they have always responded quickly when I have asked questions. Bought everything through RRR engineering - who were excellent and would highly recommend. Also a significant plus for me was that with a relatively inexpensive CAN-bus to bluetooth adaptor and a free app (android only) my tablet acts as my gauges for the car. Displays everything connected to the ecu - even knock. Personally not a fan of having gauges littered all over the dash and the only other option was a toucan display (which was considerably more expensive) so it is a great compromise. I bought all new sensors as the ecumaster has the calibration curves for bosch sensors in the sensor setup wizard. I didn't want to risk an old sensor failing or want to spend time trying to find the calibration curves for the stock sensors online/determining them through experimentation. If you plan to use the stock sensors and VSV's it might be a good idea to check compatibility etc. and see how hard it will be to implement with the EMU vs other brands. Also if you are using the stock loom you can get a plug and play adaptor made but that is more expense and requires having faith that they have wired it up correctly - which is why I made my own loom from scratch. The plug and play AEM and link ecu's may therefore be good options too.

Have recently carried out a turbo conversion on my NA and used the EMU black - 1000cc injectors and a T67 precision turbo. Made a custom loom and mapped it myself. It is running well now at 0.8bar (clutch limited) after a few good weekends road mapping it. Have some experience working on maps for a Syvecs and although it is a great unit I much prefer the EMU software - it is incredibly user friendly. My shortlist came to either a Link ECU or the EMU Black and decided on the latter mainly for the excellent price (got the ecu, terminated loom, a complete array of sensors, MAC solenoid etc for about the same as a link ECU on its own). I haven't played with Link software so am unable to say how they compare from a mapping perspective but I am very happy with my choice so far.

The following link shows the differences between the wiring of an auto and manual 2JZ GE ECU (the blue text is for the auto functions). I am not 100% sure if the pins for the auto only terminals are present on the manual ecu's but to be honest it would be easy to just depin these terminals from the loom connector if you haven't already done so. Pins 76 and 77 should be connected together which it looks like this must be done as part of the conversion anyway? I would therefore be reasonably confident that it would work. http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/41678224/2JZ-GE%20JZA80%20Supra%20Engine%20Wiring

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Looks like this Delphi connector: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connectors/9232209/

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Bump and price dropped to £350 excluding postage

Thanks and I agree, this really helped to put off my need for more power - well at least for a few years.