Jake

No offence intended mate but I seriously doubt it. Those are 6 pot KADs. Look, we're getting nowhere here. You need to find out if you have the usual j-spec brakes (Same pads as the Lexus GS300) or the UK spec (and an optional extra on some JDM Supras) brakes, in which case you need UK spec Supra pads. I can't help you anymore than that with the info you have given.

Do you have a photo of your front calipers or wheels that show the calipers?

They don't check brake pads on the MoT test. As far as MOTs are concerned, they're either worn out or they aren't. Does your car have 4 piston or 2 piston front brake calipers? There's only two types.

Mine works. I was driving along the other morning in brilliant sunshine and the wiper kept going every few secs, must've been from when I had last driven the car. I had a splitting hangover and there a police car behind me - could remember how to turn it off? Could I buggery. Luckily it was a WPC driving the cop car, so she didn't notice and pull me over.

Turbo heat shield? They rust like the ace of spades around the bolt holes. But that's driver's side.... What could it be on the passenger side? Fuel filter shield? Dipstick bracket? (Gearbox or engine) Gearbox to DP/MP joint bracket? Fuck knows, could be anything!

What do you mean by "my car reads in KM"? Does the speedo read in kmh or mph? Does the speedo go up to 110 or 180? If 180 is it 180mph or 180kph?

There you go then, if your speedo goes to 180mph you must have a speedo converter fitted. And that will be what is causing your error code 42. It'll probably be wired into the ECU harness in the passenger footwell. Check its wiring, especially the earth. Wire the earth wire to a ground point to be sure.

Your AC stops working!

Your car doesn't have a kph to mph speedo converter or anything? What does your speedo go up to, 110mph or 180?

I'm fairly sure that if you do something which invalidates you insurance you are still insured for third party claims, so you're still insured legally. Your fully comp claims are invalidated of course. As I understand it from reading a legal forum (uk.legal), an insurance company can't legally refuse claims from third parties because their insured broke the law in some way or even if they lied to them to get cover. If you have a policy you are covered, come what may. Obviously you may still be prosecuted for doing something which made your vehicle unroadworthy. ps Not trying to argue with you here Phil, just trying to clarify this confusing insurance situation.

Prosecuted for what Phil? He'd still be insured. I agree that tyre isn't worth repairing, just wondering about the insurance /leagl situation you mentioned.

Any beeps when you power on? How many? Do the Caps,Num, Scroll Lock lights all flash once at the same time? Disconnect everything non-vital (HDDs, FDDs, CD drives, NIC, etc) reseat GFX card, remove RAM and refit one stick only - or swap for known good. (re)Check front panel connectors

When you say facelift, they're both non-VVTi engines, right? Are you 100% sure fuel is getting through? Have you checked the cam timing is right?

Great I'll take two hundred please!

Exactly right Rob.

So do I. 18x8½ front wheels, 18x10 rears

I'll leave that for somebody who's actually done it to answer. I've never done a Supra clutch myself. (Took a few auto boxes off myself, on axle stands it's a struggle)

Mas, The aspect ratio (profile) of a tyre isn't a measurement in millimeters like you might think, it's a percentage of the width. So a 285/35 would have a higher sidewall height than a 275/35 would have. Because 35% of 285mm is more than 35% of 275mm. This is why you have a higher number profile tyre on the front - because the tyre on the front is narrower. Do you see what I mean?

Can what be done? You can change a clutch on axle stands but it'll be hard graft. I wouldn't want to do it. Taking the clutch inspection plate off is a quick and easy job. Yes oil on the clutch plates would require replacement, as I said before in post #10. The flywheel might be ok if it hasn't been slipping too long, you'll have to have a look at it when it's stripped down.

Can you take it back to the trader and let them sort it out?

Yeah, it's gearbox off, clutch off, flywheel off to change the rear crank seal. I don't think the release bearing would have suffered but I'd change it anyway, they can't cost much. If there's oil on the clutch plate it's knackered. You'll need new flywheel bolts as well (about £80 I think) It might not be the rear crank seal anyway, we're just guessing at the moment.

Can you get the car onto axle stands and whip off the clutch inspection cover? (It's only two 10 or 12mm bolts) and see if there's leaked oil in there?

I was thinking exactly the same thing while reading the first post.

More than I thought!

OMG, I'm wetting myself here!