ryansupra

Got the alternator refurbished and its back to normal. The regulator pack was bad.. Thanks for the help

I have a Mine's ECU... No SLD or BCC needed..

I found a refurbished original alternator for $100 cdn so I think it's worth replacing the whole thing. That way I know it's fixed for sure.

I did not. There is a shop close to me that has rebuilt alternators.. Gonna go show this one to him and hopefully get a replacement. The regulator is part of the alternator,right?

So I took the alternator out and going to get a replacement. Belt is turning and voltage was only 11.7. I noticed some white stuff on the connector, is it grease?

Thanks guys. I am sure the alternator is the problem. The tricky part is to figure out if its the crank pulley or the alternator itself. If the crank pulley is bad, will I see the belt moving slower?

I can't sleep over this... Lol The battery is new and died while the car was driving so there is a charging issue. I will do the tip-ex test tomorrow and see if the crank pulley is bad. Doing some research it seems that the crank pulley goes bad very often on Supras..

Hi guys, Today while driving, some lights came on the dash randomly. After driving at night for a bit, all lights came on then died down and realized the battery is dead, even power steering got stiffer. The battery is brand new, just 2 months old. What do I look for? Terminals on the battery are ok and alternator belt seems fine. Car has Mine's ECU, upgraded cd radio and just better door speakers, no big audio system. Any thoughts?

I have the Kakimoto Regu 06&R and i love it.. Very quite but i have a TT and with both cats.. Built quality looks amazing

Since you are wiring the turbos in TTC, the wastegate is going to control both turbos identically. The Supra has only one wastegate that is on the first turbo. In TTC, all the sequential components are bypassed so both turbos are linked together. Once the wastegate on turbo one releases boost, both turbos slow down. Did you manage to see the damage? I am in Brampton, Ontario.. Quite far from you.

If you are planning on staying TTC, you can get rid of all the sequential components. ECU does not need any work or resistors as far as i know. Mine adapted to TTC on its own. Not sure why you prefer the MBC over an EVC. IMO, EVC is better as you can adjust boost on the fly. My HKS EVC4 has 2 settings, that way i cruise on 1 bar then crank it up occasionally. Regarding the turbo removal, not sure how to help on that. I never had to remove min yet (fingers crossed).. Where are you from in Canada?

OK, what you did was a valid test to bypass the actuators. So now you narrowed it down to 2 things, either a blown turbo or bad wastegate which i highly doubt. I would try unplugging the wastegate and see if the boost stays but beware that you might blow the the other turbo which sounds like it is still good. I am pretty sure that you have a bad 2nd turbo. When the 1st one spools up, the boost is just being lost through turbo 2. My suggestion is to remove piping and inspect turbos.

Are you forcing the actuators to stay open? IACV and EGCV... Look what i did here http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?292015-Loosing-boost-when-2nd-turbo-comes-online. This way you force the 2nd turbo to have an exhaust and inlet access and will force TTC.

I do not think that there is anything wrong with the actuators cause there is no air in the system. When i park and pull IACV hose, no air comes out which means the system is not pressurized. I have a feeling the pressure tank is bad or the hoses coming from it. No EVC attached, she boosted up to 0.7 psi max. I have her at 1.1 bar max with Hks Evc4. Whoever never tried TTC, should go for it.. + it feels more fuel efficient

Yes i did. Not really sure where the problem is but this solution made the car run great. Here are some pics of what i did.. I made two rods that hold the IACV and EGCV actuators open at all time. Car is a little bit louder which i like and the boost rush at 4k is amazing. The lower end turbo lag isn't that bad, definitely good enough. Let me know what you think

I cannot seem to find the pressure tank. Do i need to remove the intake manifold to access it? I ran a few tests today and got some positive results.... I used 2 small grippers to hold the IACV and EGCV actuator arms open. Went for a spin and both turbos are working. Car is fast and i still have the EVC disconnected. I am thinking of leaving it this way by permanently opening both actuators. The exhaust was a little louder too and the rush of boost at 4k is amazing! I know it is not really solving the issue but i have to say that TTC is the way to go.. Thanks for all the help guys

I removed all pipes linking both turbos and they are fine. I will keep looking.

Thanks... i will check it out tomorrow. Mind telling me which one? There are two of them, one on top and the other further down.

I did, i don't see any air escaping and looked at all the lines. I also removed the EVC completely and i have the same symptoms. It boosts to 0.7 up to 4k then drops to 0.5. I removed the IACV VSV pipe right after i shut the engine off and no air came out. Some air should come out, right? If the problem is an air leak, which pipes should i diagnose? Also, both EGCV and IACV move freely when pushed down with a screw driver. Sorry for asking too many questions.. Trying to learn this system slowly, hopefully get it fixed. Thanks

So i put her in TTC and still no boost past 4k. I bypassed the IACV VSV and the EGCV VSV . Boost was delayed a bit as it should, went up to 1 bar for a second then drops right away to 0.5 bar and stays there. Car feels like it has no power. Also, i noticed that if i turn off the EVC4, car still boosts up to 1 bar on 3rd gear before 4k rpm. Isnt it suppose to go to stock boost when it is turned off? I also unplugged the IACV pipe right after i parked and no air came out. Does that mean i VSV might be ok but i have a leak somewhere from the air tank?I cant really see the tank under the inlet. I reached in but cant feel it either. What else should i check?

Is there a way to test the vsv's manually? For example, if i rev up the engine while the hood is open, any of the vsv get active at any point for me to see?

The dealer i bought if from told me that once he bypassed the Evc and put it back to stock, it stayed solid 0.7 bar all the way. I bave yet to try that. Can an Evc go bad if that is the case?

Hi guys, I need help! I just purchased a 96 jspec.. Mods are Mine's ecu, Kakimoto cat-back, HKS Evc 4 and K&N air filter. I drove it today and it doesnt feel right. The minute i accelerate, turbo spools right away in any gear. It pulls till 4k or so then dies down. Boost gauge shows 0.7 in 2nd gear, 1.1 over 3rd gear. It also depends how i set the EVC, lower boosts if i up the offset. The issue is past 4k rpm. Lets say i have the Evc set for 1.1bar.. Till 4k it holds but past that it drops to 0.5 and stays there. I searched and search and could not get a straight answer. I admit, the turbo system is too complex and I'm finding hard to understand how it works. I got the basics but can somebody point me to which valve/pipe i should inspect? Also, around 3.5k, there is a jerk in boost.. Any ideas will be well appreciated. Ryan

Thanks guys.. I have no choice then, flat black it is.