ryansupra

Got the alternator refurbished and its back to normal. The regulator pack was bad.. Thanks for the help

I have a Mine's ECU... No SLD or BCC needed..

I found a refurbished original alternator for $100 cdn so I think it's worth replacing the whole thing. That way I know it's fixed for sure.

I did not. There is a shop close to me that has rebuilt alternators.. Gonna go show this one to him and hopefully get a replacement. The regulator is part of the alternator,right?

So I took the alternator out and going to get a replacement. Belt is turning and voltage was only 11.7. I noticed some white stuff on the connector, is it grease?

Thanks guys. I am sure the alternator is the problem. The tricky part is to figure out if its the crank pulley or the alternator itself. If the crank pulley is bad, will I see the belt moving slower?

I can't sleep over this... Lol The battery is new and died while the car was driving so there is a charging issue. I will do the tip-ex test tomorrow and see if the crank pulley is bad. Doing some research it seems that the crank pulley goes bad very often on Supras..

Hi guys, Today while driving, some lights came on the dash randomly. After driving at night for a bit, all lights came on then died down and realized the battery is dead, even power steering got stiffer. The battery is brand new, just 2 months old. What do I look for? Terminals on the battery are ok and alternator belt seems fine. Car has Mine's ECU, upgraded cd radio and just better door speakers, no big audio system. Any thoughts?

I have the Kakimoto Regu 06&R and i love it.. Very quite but i have a TT and with both cats.. Built quality looks amazing

Since you are wiring the turbos in TTC, the wastegate is going to control both turbos identically. The Supra has only one wastegate that is on the first turbo. In TTC, all the sequential components are bypassed so both turbos are linked together. Once the wastegate on turbo one releases boost, both turbos slow down. Did you manage to see the damage? I am in Brampton, Ontario.. Quite far from you.

If you are planning on staying TTC, you can get rid of all the sequential components. ECU does not need any work or resistors as far as i know. Mine adapted to TTC on its own. Not sure why you prefer the MBC over an EVC. IMO, EVC is better as you can adjust boost on the fly. My HKS EVC4 has 2 settings, that way i cruise on 1 bar then crank it up occasionally. Regarding the turbo removal, not sure how to help on that. I never had to remove min yet (fingers crossed).. Where are you from in Canada?

OK, what you did was a valid test to bypass the actuators. So now you narrowed it down to 2 things, either a blown turbo or bad wastegate which i highly doubt. I would try unplugging the wastegate and see if the boost stays but beware that you might blow the the other turbo which sounds like it is still good. I am pretty sure that you have a bad 2nd turbo. When the 1st one spools up, the boost is just being lost through turbo 2. My suggestion is to remove piping and inspect turbos.

Are you forcing the actuators to stay open? IACV and EGCV... Look what i did here http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?292015-Loosing-boost-when-2nd-turbo-comes-online. This way you force the 2nd turbo to have an exhaust and inlet access and will force TTC.

I do not think that there is anything wrong with the actuators cause there is no air in the system. When i park and pull IACV hose, no air comes out which means the system is not pressurized. I have a feeling the pressure tank is bad or the hoses coming from it. No EVC attached, she boosted up to 0.7 psi max. I have her at 1.1 bar max with Hks Evc4. Whoever never tried TTC, should go for it.. + it feels more fuel efficient