Mgrene

Evening Forum. The time has now come for me to get new rear tyres. Today I am driving with the following spec.: Continental 315/25 19" But in order to gain some more comfort, I think I will choose 315/35 19" instead. Do I need to consider anything now that the dimension of the tyre will change? Bonus question: In Denmark, these tyres are rather expensive. Are you able to suggest an English hompage which is very competitive on price? The price in Denmark is around 250-300,- GBP/per tyre. EDIT: Just discovered there is no such thing as 315/35 19"

Evening People. I have a Greddy intake manifold installed on my Supe. The manifold was installed when I bought the car a year ago. The problem with this manifold is that there are no idle regulator which mean that the RPM is going up and down when idling. To begin with I didn't mind but now I am close to going crazy. If any of you have a Greddy installed, how did you fix the idle problem? Weld a standard regulator on the manifold? Bonus question: The car is today idling between 1200-1600 RPM. I know it is possible to adjust the idle via the idlescrew but I have read somewhere that this could effect the car somehow? Sounds strange to me, but one guy claimed that he needed to "re-map" his car just becuase he adjusted the idlescrew. Is this correct ?

Sounds like a great trip. Is it only for UK members or is it also possible for us foreigners to participate?

Somebody tell us where you can get these

I am now trying to get a quote from another mechanic, if he also quotes me a high price, I will try and do it myself. £550 is simply too much!

Yeah I came to the same conclusion yesterday. Just strange that the switch has moved itself. I will try and dismantle the gauge from the dash panels and see if I can move the switch back to its original position.

Yup, it is reading Lambda value instead of showing the normal A/F ratio. Now the question is why and how can I change it back?

Haven't touched anything. It just started doing this when I fired up the car today. And then after a while it goes back to normal reading. Maybe a new sensor or gauge is the answer :-(

And that means?

Hello All. This gauge is driving me crazy! A while back it started freezing when I started up the car, got that sorted but now it does this. WTF!? Normally it shows the digitgs in 00.0 and not 0.00 After a few miles drive it goes back to normal mode again. Any of you who know why it does that. Haven't done that since I bought the car a year ago.

Yeah, think I will invest £20 in a vacuum bleeder and save the trouble :-) - - - Updated - - - Yeah, think I will invest £20 in a vacuum bleeder and save the trouble :-)

A guy (who used to be a mechanic) wrote on a danish forum that you should start with the closest wheel because this eliminate the airbubbles as you go along. And it makes sense to me because if you start with the one furthest away then airbubbles will stil exist in the system and it might be that these airbubbles will work their way out to the wheel you just completed. Does this make sense?

Haha, well this topic started out great. Two different answers already

Wouw, its impressive how many different guides you'll find when you search for this on the Internet Once and for all, I would appreciate if somebody could explain the correct procedure. The situation is as follows: I have just re-painted my brake callipers and in connection with that, the brake fluid container has been completly drained (read: no more break fluid in the container) 1) at which wheel do you start? The one closest to the container og the one most far away? 2) Push break pedal down, open nipple, close nipple, release foot from pedal. Do this until fluid is running out the nipple hole. Correct? And yes I have searched here on the forum also, but the answers was different from topic to topic.

Evening Folks. I am getting my alloy's polished by a local guy and he asked me to remove the innerpart of the alloy, which will make it easier for him to do the polish. My question is as follows: Is it okay to remove the innerpart with the tyres still mounted? Or would the removal of the inner part affect the "strenght" of the alloy?

Absolut fantastic, already received the new seals Chris. Thumbs up. Just found out that the mechanic will charge me between £500-600 to change the two seals. He must be crazy. I have looked around on the Internet and it looks like both seals are rather easy to get access to, so I might give it a shot myself. Once again, thank you for the fast handling.

It will also be a mechanic who is going to change mine. Just hope he understand when I say to him that no need to remove the old seal as the new one will fit on top of the existing one. Supra's are not a common car here in Denmark and it can be a pain to explain a mechanic how you want things done :-/

Email sent to you. Hope its not too late.

Evening folks. I am unfortunately able to conclude that my Getrag gearbox is leaking oil, so now I am looking for the correct seals. Is there some kind of seal kit for this gearbox or is it only possible to purchase the bits separately? The oil is coming from the rear-end of the gearbox (around where the propshaft starts), and if I'm right, there are two seals in that area?. Any of you who knows which seals I should buy (part number). I have looked in the thread about V160 and parts but didn't find it helpful. So if one of you can point out which seals is mounted in this area marked with red, I would be very grateful. The spots marked with orange is where the oil is dripping.

Evening All. This weekend the Supra was fired up after 6 months winter storage During the winter period I warmed up the engine occassionllay in order to make sure the oil, water, gaz etc would go through the system without trouble. I just had a look at the engine bay today (while the car was running) and noticed that when I gave it some RPM's a small but noticable rattle appears (is that the right word?). I do not remember if the enigne did that before it was put away for the winter but I don't think so. The car is running without any complications, but I just think that this is a "pre-warning" that there are some loose bolts or cam-belt etc. Maybe it's just me who is a bit crazy but thought I better ask.

They do not light up before I turn on the switch on the signal arm. Hihi apparently for some reasom I chose to do that in the middle of the video.

There are no airbag installed, but thanks for the concern.

Well guys. I checked the harness (for the censor) at the engine bay. Made sure it was fully plugged in. After that I checked the wires behind th gauge, mounted the dash back together and wupti, it works as it should. So it could be a loose connection, I guess we never know :-/ It was not obvious that a wire was loose. From now on I let the gauge run it's "starting" program (takes only a few seconds) before I start the engine. [video=youtube;Vk-8YOj2S9k]

So you conclude that I should warm up the censor before i start the car. I will try this later today and make a video of it also. I will also check the harness in rhe engine bay and the wiring behind the gauge. I just still think it is strange that it reacts when i physically touch the gauge itself. It must be some kind of loose connection but if that is the case then it shouldn't work at all, because when I touch it, it is very limited how much I adjust it. Jesus! The more you think about it the more questions you will raise. God damn electronics!

Yeah to that.