Mgrene

Hi. SOLD! I'm selling my facelift headlights. They are in great condition. Only been used for 2000 miles. I am selling because I need USA spec instead as I am living in Denmark. I can add a xenon kit if wanted. They have been installed in these headlights which mean they have also only been used for 2000 miles. Postage is to be paid by buyer.

Also interested in your seatbelts (complete) for passenger and driver side. And fusebox if in good condition

I'm interested in the upper glovebox. Is it possible to ship to Denmark?

Sorry. Black :-)

In good condition

Are you also selling interior parts? NB: sorry to see this outcome.

Looking for both the downpipe, midpipe, exhaust itself and muffler. Must be in mint condition.

Yeah with 900 horsepower that will be fun [emoji1360]

Hi there. Possible to ship these to Denmark?

Are these sold?

Just bought myself a new Supra one month back and the existing titanium exhaust is not my style. I want that deep classic Supra sound that we know from the fast&furious movie. I have seen a few videos on youtube with Boost Logic and it sounds amazing. What do you guys suggest? It must be minimum 4"

Somehow I managed to pull out the oil dipstick cylinder from the engine block. Now I can't get it back in (with handpower). Any tips/tricks how to do it? With a hammer maybe? :-)

I got the answer that I looked for ;-)

So when it says frame made October 1993 then it is a 1994 model?

Awesome. Thanks ellis

Evening. Subject pretty much says it all. Is it possible to determine manufacture year by the frame no.?

Now you have the chance ;-)

Hello Forum. I am putting up my Supra for sale but since there are very few buyers in Denmark, I will also try my luck in the UK. It is no secret that now that UK is no longer a part of EU, it is not very attractive for me to sell it in UK due to the value of the GBP currency, but if you can give me an idea how much this car may be worth in UK, I might give it a shot. Toyota Supra 1994 (located in Denmark) Km: 76.500 (miles: 47.500) – Engine Km 20.000 Very unique and well-maintained Toyota Supra. The car has only been used as a hobbycar and has only been driven during summer periods. Always stored in a closed garage. In 2015/2016 the whole cabin was refurbished: - Interior covered in microfiber with red stitches - Brand new Pioneer stereo (radio unit, speakers, sub & amplifier) - Complete sound proofed with STP BLACK GOLD - Brand new DEFI gauges - Interior light converted to blue Engine is converted from twin to single turbo. The original engine was replaced by a donor engine in 2009 and has only been running for 20.000 km. All engine components was also replaced with high end components in 2009. The engine has been mapped by Ryan from 2bartunning. Recently the following parts has been replaced: - Continental SportContact 6 rear wheels - Timing belt - Engine oil - Oilfilter - Brakefluid - Battery - Power steering fluid Technical details: All parts was new when the engine was rebuilt in 2009: - New gaskets - PHR oilpump - New oem waterpump - Eagle rods with ARP bolts - Wiseco pistons - ACL bearings - Titan ATI crank pulley Head: - Complete refurbished and polished - HKS 264/264 cams - ARP top bolts - Greddy cam pulley Fuel system: - HKS 1000cc injectors - HKS Twin feed fuel rail - Dual Walbro fuel pumps - Aeromotive fuel filter - Sard Racing fuel pressure regulator (with gauge) Turbo & Exhaust: - Precision T67 0.68 A/R - HKS 50mm wastegate with screamer pipe - Boostlogic exhaust manifold - Boostlogic 4” downpipe - O2 Racing (handmade) 4” exhaust with Whifbitz muffler - Greddy (polished) intake - Tial 50mm BOV Transmission: - 6 speed Getrag V160 - Exedy twin plate clutch - TT LSD - TRD engine mounts - TRD transmission mounts Electronics: - AEM EMS ECU - AEM 3.5 bar map sensor - AEM boost solenoid - NGK spark plugs - HKS ignition booster Cooling: - Fluidyne radiator - ARC cooling tank - Mocal oil cooler - AEM air filter - Blitz intercooler - TRD thermostat Wheels & Suspension: - Front: 9.5x19” Riverside Trafficstar STM - Rear: 12x19” Riverside Trafficstar STM - Front: 245/35 19” Falken - Rear: 315/25 19” Continetal SportContact6 - Tein Superstreet coilovers

Thanks Chris. I guess best thing is to just start from one end (the tank) and then move forward. By the way, I have read somewhere that you can check if you have a faulty fuel pressure regulator by checking the vacuum hose that goes from the regulator. If gasoline drops when ignition is on, the regulator is leaking. Is this true?

Hi Shane. I have done some reading on the internet concerning symptoms when experiencing loss of fuel pressure and together with that, and from my own "logical view" I find it difficult to believe that the issue is located somewhere else than the injectors. I am not saying that I am right but let me specify. Normally my fuel pressure is 3 bar when engine is running. When I turn off the car, the pressure drops a little bit (not much, maybe to around 2.7 bar). Recently I have noticed that the pressure drops down to maybe 1.5 bar or so when I turn off the car. First warning sign that I saw some months ago but I chose not to take any further notice. When the pressure started to drop when the engine was running, this only happened gradually not instantly. All the fuel lines are having a "free play" under the car which mean that if they are leaking I should definitely be able to see gasoline spots on the floor under the car. But no sign of that. Furthermore, if there is a leak somewhere, I believe that the pressure should drop immediately to 0 bar when car is shut off. But it doesn't. There is also a smell inside the car of gasoline when the car is running (smells like it comes from the vents but not 100% sure). As mentioned, the fuel lines are running under the car and if they are leaking I do not believe that the smell will move from under the car into the cabin. Then we are back to if there is a loose connection inside the gas tank, but again I do not believe that it will cause a smell inside the car. Therefore I believe that the leak is somewhere in the engine room and if you read on the internet, a leaking injector may cause smell of gasoline in the cabin and around the car. I am not talking about an internal leak inside the injector (because then it should run very rich but it doesn't according to my AFR. It shows very lean when I open up for the throttle) but a leak between the injector and engine and/or fuel rail. But the leak is so small that I cannot spot it while engine is running, which I also think is the reason why the bar pressure only slowly drops when engine is shut off. I may be way of and when I get the car back it makes sense to start from the very beginning at the pumps and then just check all connections up to the engine room. Btw: Fuel pumps are running (I can hear that when I turn on the ignition). My setup is 2 x walbro, HKS twin feed fuel rail, HKS 1000cc injectors. Edit: Its a TT-T and I believe FPR is Fuel Pressure Regulator. If so, it's an aftermarket one.

Evening Forum. On the way home from vacation my Supra lost fuel pressure. I have done some reading on the internet and based on the symptoms I am 90% certain that one of the fuel injectors are broke (gasoline smell around and inside the car). I know there are several tests that can be done but after watching you tube for 30 minutes I do have a few extra questions. Hopefully it is only one injector that is broke/leaking. I have read there is the possibility that it is an internal or exxternal leak. How do I check if it is an external leak? I have absolutely zero experience with replacing injectors but I prefer to do the replacement myself. Is it just a question of disassembling the injector from the fuel rail or is it more complicated than that? I have searched the forum for a guide but without luck? The car is being towed back to Denmark from Austria in 10 days so I cannot start working on it before that.

You don't have any video of it in action? Where did you get i from?